steering knuckle replacement
#1
steering knuckle replacement
Hi there,
I was wondering if someone out there could give me some advice on tackling the truck here. I have a 2003 Ranger 4x4, and my steering knuckle is...broken. The casting is cracked, as the result of an accident. That's the only visible damage I can see thus far.
First of all...is it ok to use a wrecker part for this? Ford lists this part at 380 bucks! Second...should I do any balljoints/seals while I've got this thing off? Looks like everythings gotta come off to replace this. Third, the manual saysI need the hub lock puller...is there a way to get around this, or should I go rent one/buy one?
I have to do this on the cheap, I'm laid off and don't have much cash. Thanking you in advance for any help!
Bill
I was wondering if someone out there could give me some advice on tackling the truck here. I have a 2003 Ranger 4x4, and my steering knuckle is...broken. The casting is cracked, as the result of an accident. That's the only visible damage I can see thus far.
First of all...is it ok to use a wrecker part for this? Ford lists this part at 380 bucks! Second...should I do any balljoints/seals while I've got this thing off? Looks like everythings gotta come off to replace this. Third, the manual saysI need the hub lock puller...is there a way to get around this, or should I go rent one/buy one?
I have to do this on the cheap, I'm laid off and don't have much cash. Thanking you in advance for any help!
Bill
#2
If the knuckle was damaged then I'm sure the ball joints are toast. You have to buy the upper since it's cast into the arm. http://rockauto.com/ has decent prices. The CV is held on by a large nut. I think its 32 mm but I'm not sure. If you need to swap the wheel bearing to the new knuckle then there are three bolts on the back of the knuckle that need to come off.
#3
#4
funny story.. i just had a car at work, the guy was playin tokyo drift with an RSX apparently.. bent/cracked the front LCA, bent both driver wheels, put a huge gash in the rear tire. he ended up replacing EVERYTHING on the driver front..
hope yours isn't as bad.. like they said, make sure you check the steering, and upper/lower control arms..
a junk yard part would be fine as long as it didn't suffer the same fate..
hope yours isn't as bad.. like they said, make sure you check the steering, and upper/lower control arms..
a junk yard part would be fine as long as it didn't suffer the same fate..
#5
thanks
Wow, thanks for the great responses.
I have looked into it, it looks like for sure the steering knuckle, plus upper/lower ball joints. the tie rod on the end of the rack looks okay. It got hit above the wheel centerline. Now as far as doing the lower ball joint on the control arm, can I use a puller to press it in on the car, or should I pull it off and replace the whole assembly?
Thanks about the rock-auto tip...will check it out.
Bill
I have looked into it, it looks like for sure the steering knuckle, plus upper/lower ball joints. the tie rod on the end of the rack looks okay. It got hit above the wheel centerline. Now as far as doing the lower ball joint on the control arm, can I use a puller to press it in on the car, or should I pull it off and replace the whole assembly?
Thanks about the rock-auto tip...will check it out.
Bill
#6
Broken steering knuckle
I recently broke my steering knuckle too. Drivers side. The CV boot was punctured. I had the great idea of going to the pick n pull yard where an employee assured me that the explorer had the same parts. It's insane how close the parts are. To be clear they are not the same. I removed the y-shaped upper arm with the knuckle and pulled the entire "CV AXLE?" basically a goofy looking two part thing with rubber accordion cones. it came off easily with a pry bar. separating the hub thing was tricky. I removed the 3 rear bolts and used a 32mm socket i rented at a parts store. I ended up prying them apart with varying thicknesses of pry bar until the fully separated. I installed the entire assembly a million little pieces only to find that the brake caliper bracket holes are slightly off which locks up the entire rotor and makes this absolutely unuseable. It was a lot of work to get nothing in return. Now I will have to return tomorrow to do the entire process over again. :-( Also I foolishly tried various arrangements of ford explorer rotors and brake caliber brackets to no avail.
#7
#9
If the rotor diameter is changed on one side, it MUST also be changed on the other side to match. Opting for the 12" brakes is definitely the better choice.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
redbaron
General Technical & Electrical
11
11-11-2011 07:08 PM
Want to Buy: steering knuckle DR side ASAP
dave89b
OLD - Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
5
11-27-2010 04:56 PM