Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

3 inch lift. opinions greatly appriciated

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Old May 9, 2009
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Sanch109's Avatar
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From: san antonio texas
3 inch lift. opinions greatly appriciated

ok guys. A shop in my town will install a 3 inch lift for $450.00. The 3" kit consist of new keyways, shock extenders and an add-a-leaf. My truck will also be level, it currently isnt.

Should I do this or get a body lift from summit? I am new to this stuff, so I am a little unsure.

I would like to fit 33's eventually.
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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I'd say just body lift it. and then crank your current keys to level out the truck. Alot of people on here do that.
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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From: bomba shack
search?
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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key's are the same as cranking the t-bars.. your getting hosed
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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Originally Posted by Redneckstone
key's are the same as cranking the t-bars.. your getting hosed
^x2, I got keys because i didnt know any better and i hadnt heard of R-F yet. But i didnt pay more than 60$ for mine.
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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What those keys do, is put a greater preload on the bars, and allow you to crank further than you should, thus creating more lift. There are downsides: ball joint excessive wear, CV shaft binding. I vote no on keys. NONONONONO. Bodylift it and crank the bars.
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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From: Mission B.C.
Originally Posted by EricRanger
^x2, I got keys because i didnt know any better and i hadnt heard of R-F yet. But i didnt pay more than 60$ for mine.
Yeah but your are going to prematurely spend a couple of hundred dollars more when your TRE's CV's and ball joints wear

Shane you win
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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From: locust grove georgia
personally i think you should max the t-bars and do either an add a leaf or the shackles or even both. then if you want more throw a body lift on too. at that point you still wont even be spending what that shop is tryin to get out of you. assuming you do the body lift yourself. very easy.
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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IF you really want level and no additional wear on parts like joints and shafts and bars, take your back block out. it'll be level. cranking bars prematurely wear the torsion bars out as well. I'm fighting that right now with my whopping year old, was brand spankin' new a year ago #1 bars.
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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From: locust grove georgia
true, but remember taking that block out will make the back sit down a bit when you have something heavy in the bed. like if you haul a atv or something. that pisses me off every time i load mine up in my bed.
 
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Old May 9, 2009
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From: Duluth, GA
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
IF you really want level and no additional wear on parts like joints and shafts and bars, take your back block out. it'll be level. cranking bars prematurely wear the torsion bars out as well. I'm fighting that right now with my whopping year old, was brand spankin' new a year ago #1 bars.
yea that's exactly why i just got the 3'' fabtech lift spindles in the front and a add-a-leaf in the rear. drives great and from what i know that dosent put any wear on the T-bars. but that's if you have about 1100$ for the whole thing lol
 
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Old May 10, 2009
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From: Mission B.C.
And the Fabtech lift only works on 2wd. 4wd are limited to the superlift and DBR
 
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Old May 10, 2009
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Sanch109's Avatar
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From: san antonio texas
thanks for all the input guys. Dont think I will be going to that shop. I dont know if I will be able to install the lift kit myself. looks tough for a noob to do.
 
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Old May 10, 2009
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From: locust grove georgia
body lift meet!
 
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