4-Link/Coilover Rear - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 06-15-2006
rolla_guy72's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 3,256
4-Link/Coilover Rear

I've been looking around for a couple months and I've found a couple companies that make parts to simplify a 4-Link for the rear of my truck...

I've been contemplating it for a long while and I think I'm ready to start buying parts/accesories for the rear axle build-up and to 4-link the rear.

I'm kind of short on knowledge, too. So I really need some help undestanding "Pro's and Con's" of a couple different setups. I'm pretty sure I will be using a regular triangulated 4-link, not a double triangulated or standard "hotrod"-style 4-link.

I know I want to 4-link the rear because I will get better traction, articulation and decent highway handling/ride.

Here are some parts I've found for the 4-link suspension...

Blue Torch Fab 8.8" Rear Truss System


QA1 XM 1.25" Rod Ends with 1" Ball**Bottom of the page**


Blue Torch Fab Coilover Mounting Brackets **Will they fit an 8.8" tube??**


And i can get the DOM tubing almost anywhere...

One more question...

In addition to all this stuff, what else will i need other than the obvious tools???
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-15-2006
bigdavesohc's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Eastland, Texas
Posts: 72
You have to take LOTS of measurements to have the right calculations. You know, spring location, 4-link rod length and pinion angle. Extreme 4x4 on Spike TV had a few shows on it, look that up, it may still be there.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-15-2006
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 2,099
ok.

1.25" is WAY overkill for your truck.

You will need to relocated the fuel tank, run a fuel cell, or a BII tank behind the axle to run a 4-link.

I would run double-triangulated.

Honestly, if you have little knowledge, I would do ALOT more research before I even thought about what tools i would need.

Go to pirate4x4.com and find the thread call link suspension for dummies. Read the WHOLE thing. THEN start designing yours.

Generally link tabs etc are cut to fit most axle tubes (3"+ in the off-road industry) and you can trim the bottom edges of the tabs so they will sit flush.

You definately want to set-up your links so that your pinion always stays pointed at (generally speaking, you would want pinion angle to be the same as the t-case output angle)

A good starting point and point of reference, you want at least 6-7" of verticle seperation at the axle, 3-4" at the frame.

The uppers should roughly be 70% of the length of the lowers.

The uppers should have about a 40* angle of seperation b/t them. The lowers are less important, but will still affect the suspension.

You can run only triangulated uppers and parallel lowers you will get alot of rear steer. Which pretty much means, if your tucking the passenger side, that wheel will be further away than the drivers side wheel at full droop.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-15-2006
telemaster1952's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Dover, Deleware
Posts: 3,481
is this for the truck in the pic or in your ranger?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-15-2006
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 2,099
His ranger, the pic has the blue-torch truss.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-15-2006
FauX's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 992
You making a rock crawler?
If not or making a race truck, don't waste the money, Get an f23 pack from deaver, 2.5" lift in the read with drop hangers will improve your ride drastically. Install some nice shocks under the bed and your set to go
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-16-2006
redranger4.0's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Firey depths
Posts: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by 034x4


A good starting point and point of reference, you want at least 6-7" of verticle seperation at the axle, 3-4" at the frame.

The uppers should have about a 40* angle of seperation b/t them. The lowers are less important, but will still affect the suspension.

remember that these are minimum numbers. most guys like at least 45* of seperation between the links. and a little more verticle seperation at the frame then 3-4. just something to keep in mind when trying to design. the hard part is getting your design to fit under the truck correctly
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-16-2006
HighRollerII's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 10,066
BII is a bronco II right..

does it have the same sending unit in it as the ranger does..so the gauges will still work correctly if added this tank?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-16-2006
rolla_guy72's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 3,256
Alright... I really don't care if you don't want me to do it, so please don't post if you're going to try to steer me away...

More questions...

1.25" rod ends are like....the biggest, and probably the strongest. I don't want anything to ever break. BUT, I could save ALOT more money going down to 7/8" is that a good size??

So I will have to get a fuel cell before I start all of this, are the links really going to be that long? Is there anyone here that could make me one to save money?

I will go to pirate4x4 and read that.... I understand the suspension geometrically but a little shy of experience knowledge.

What is the OD of the 8.8" tube???

The verticle seperation, I assume, is between the links?

And I guess the double triangulated is better because it keeps the axle from moving so much.

Thanks alot Jey.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-16-2006
FauX's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 992
ok then, Save a lot of time and cut your frame. Do it right, Full Floater 4 link system with trailing arms.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 06-18-2006
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PUEBLO, CO
Posts: 3,753
I know your not going to want to hear this but the benefit of the four link doubled with your IFS is just silly. 4 link does not = more traction articulation blah blah blah. it has to be done RIGHT to get those. you get the wrong antisquat and you could LOSE traction. binding could limit travel and so on. I would focus on getting a new front in first. but pirate is the place to go. theres also a thread there called "god of suspensions" or something like that. thats a great thread to read as well.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-18-2006
l2en's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: The Keystone State
Posts: 4,521
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected]
but pirate is the place to go.
nice...
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-18-2006
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 2,099
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolla_guy72
Alright... I really don't care if you don't want me to do it, so please don't post if you're going to try to steer me away...

More questions...

1.25" rod ends are like....the biggest, and probably the strongest. I don't want anything to ever break. BUT, I could save ALOT more money going down to 7/8" is that a good size??

So I will have to get a fuel cell before I start all of this, are the links really going to be that long? Is there anyone here that could make me one to save money?

I will go to pirate4x4 and read that.... I understand the suspension geometrically but a little shy of experience knowledge.

What is the OD of the 8.8" tube???

The verticle seperation, I assume, is between the links?

And I guess the double triangulated is better because it keeps the axle from moving so much.

Thanks alot Jey.
You could run 7/8 heims or you could run a JJ or superflex type joint (rebuildable).

The fuel tank is in the way of the uppers coming ANYWHERE close to connecting to the frame on the drivers side.

my 31 spline 8.8 has 3" tubes.

Verticle seperation is the measurement b/t the mounting points of the upper and lower links at the axle or frame respectively.

I do agree with gil, I would change the front so that you have some travel AT ALL (leaf sprung solid axle at least) before I would 4-link the rear. Unless you are going for a pre-runner type suspension.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-19-2006
rolla_guy72's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 3,256
I had planned on doing the rear first as I wouldn't have to get all the extras that come along with an SAS or LT, and then keeping the front IFS, till I have all the parts I need. Which will only happen when I have another vehicle to drive. Which means I will have to pay my Ranger off then buy a Mustang Cobra...yesssss.

The 7/8" Heims are consiberably lower in price than the 1.25" and Summit Racing just got some rubber boots for them to keep the crap out.

So I'm guessing the links will have to be mounted WAAAAAYYY up front like between "underneath the driver seat" and "the back of the cab" to be long enough. But, is that distance too long to have either of the links mounted at a 40* or 45* angle?? I haven't made any measurements to my truck yet, but to run a 45* angle on the links you could only mount the links "half the width of the axle" forward from the center of the axle, right?

And to make the upper links 70%-75% the length of the lowers, that would require mounting them pretty far forward of the lowers. Then, to keep them parallel, you probably would have to drop the lowers some, too.

That's pretty much what I've picked up so far from the thread, but it's a good one and I'm suprised they aren't arguing alot more, being that there are 1200 some-odd members usually active.

I don't have to go to work till 1pm tomorrow, so I'll go out and try to make some measurements and some amature photo's in MS Paint...lol.

I've been reading the "Link Suspension for Dummies" thread and saved it all to my computer, so I can read it whenever.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-19-2006
rolla_guy72's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 3,256
Well, I took a few "alright" measurements, not very exact, but just to get a good idea of what's going on. This picture is with 45* links from the center of the diff housing to "the inside of the outside wall of the frame."
[PICTURE WAS ****ED UP]
I meaured the axle to be about 55" wide, "the inside of the outside wall of the frame" to be about 32.5".

All of the angular measurements were taken with the axle tube being the base of the triangle and the links being the hypoteneuse.

Last edited by rolla_guy72; 06-19-2006 at 11:52 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-19-2006
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PUEBLO, CO
Posts: 3,753
no way those links look WAY to short.

theres also a couple 4link calculators out there. search pirate for em.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-19-2006
rolla_guy72's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 3,256
Yeah, I just realized what i did... Instead of measuring the angle between the links, i measured the angle from the axle tube...doh!

The angle between the links in my picture are 90*... way, way off. I just woke up about an hour ago. I'll delete it and redo it when I get home from work tonight.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-19-2006
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 2,099
If you lay under neath your truck, and look up at the gas tank from under neath the axle, there is only about, what, 10-12" in front of the tube b4 the tank? You HAVE to move the gas tank, unless you want to run a 3-link rear .
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-19-2006
rolla_guy72's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 3,256
I'm working on the fuel cell thing. There was one for sale, he said it looked like it was 15-20 gal... so it would work, even though I really want a bigger one. Oh well.

No, I don't want to run a 3-link rear. They look kinda dangerous to me, but then most jeeps have them stock with a panhard, right?

I'll get a different pic up tonight, when I get home from work.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-19-2006
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PUEBLO, CO
Posts: 3,753
3 links are not dangerous if done right.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 06-19-2006
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 2,099
stock, jeeps have a 5 link, or 4 control arms with a panhard.

Everything is dangerous if not built correctly.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 06-20-2006
rolla_guy72's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 3,256
Yeah, but from a personal perspective, 4 links look safer, to me, than 3 links...
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 06-20-2006
FauX's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 992
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolla_guy72
Yeah, but from a personal perspective, 4 links look safer, to me, than 3 links...
This could be true in some situations.
More 3 links have won the baja 500 / 1000 than 4's though
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 06-21-2006
rolla_guy72's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 3,256
I'm not gonna be racing or competing in UROC or XRRA, I'm just building a kickass ranger... geez.

Oh, I went to the local 4x4 shop, Pitts Fab, (I know them personally) and Here's a pic of Joe's (owner) Toyota he's building up.

Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 06-21-2006
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 2,099
Build a one-link (technically 2-link), I think I still might.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My Sport Trac (Gone Coilover'd!) Coilover Pic Thread shooterdude199 Snapshots 17 09-27-2011 03:25 PM
Fox CoilOver Swap + Rear Shock Swap lateralsvt Suspension Tech 2 04-01-2010 06:20 PM
Rear Coilover Swap? Roach2004 Suspension Tech 13 10-18-2009 12:29 PM
(3 Link) link lengths..... Free89BroncoII Suspension Tech 21 07-01-2008 09:43 AM
Stabilizer Link (AKA Swaybar Link) Rolldogg General Technical & Electrical 7 04-14-2007 11:15 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:31 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.