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Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #51  
Old 03-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stRanger
Might be way off for the topic not sure but here is how the trac bar was accomplished on my '95...




Wide screen of whole set up

too wide for the forum

do you have alot of problems with bump steer? looks like you would
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  #52  
Old 03-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61
This is exactly what I was talking about. For vehicles that have to meet certain height (or lack of height) requirements for being on the street, you can easily run into issues with clearance for all kinds of stuff. A parallel 4 link would probably work well for you... but you've got those pretty long-arms... why would you want to get rid of them? I think if you wanted to 4-link the rear that'd work out well for you, but 4-linking the front doesn't strike me as quite as good an idea.

because i think the parallel 4 link would be much stronger and would provide more articulation. but maybe im wrong
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  #53  
Old 03-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
because i think the parallel 4 link would be much stronger and would provide more articulation. but maybe im wrong
Triangulated is better if you can fit it.
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  #54  
Old 03-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
do you have alot of problems with bump steer? looks like you would
probably not anymore than i have with stock suspension........out steering is pretty strong........the trac bar should be as close to the pitman arm, but as close to parallel to the tie rod end as possible...
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  #55  
Old 03-21-2007
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heres something you should look at guys. its all pro's tacoma sas kit (3 link w/ panhard).
http://allprooffroad.com/index.php?o...ask=view&id=80
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  #56  
Old 03-21-2007
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that is what Andrew is running on his truck, well similar
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  #57  
Old 03-21-2007
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yea im doing a passenger side upper link. but other then that its pretty close.
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  #58  
Old 03-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
yea im doing a passenger side upper link. but other then that its pretty close.
prolly O/T but do you think that the kit would work on a ranger chassis with some changes?
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  #59  
Old 03-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joush
prolly O/T but do you think that the kit would work on a ranger chassis with some changes?
no the Toyota frame is completely different then the rangers
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  #60  
Old 03-21-2007
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dang looks like i gotta start studying some more
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  #61  
Old 03-22-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
do you have alot of problems with bump steer? looks like you would
Why does it look like I would? I have death wobble right now, but i'm startin to cut it out so it's lookin promising!!!
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  #62  
Old 03-22-2007
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Your panhard and drag link aren't very close to parallel. As your suspension compresses after hitting a bump, it will cause your drag link to push on the pitman arm, causing your steering wheel to jump around a little bit... thus, bumpsteer. The best way to fix it is to make the angles of your panhard and your draglink as close to parallel as possible, so they both react in the same manner when the suspension compresses.
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  #63  
Old 03-22-2007
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If you look at the link in my post that shows the full set up there isn't much way to make it much more flat, cause if i made a mount to drop them down it will get hit upon compression i would think... plus it was driven like this for years by the previous drive with no problems!! just something is bad and i need to find it!
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  #64  
Old 03-22-2007
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caster, check your caster. have you had it in for alignment?
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  #65  
Old 03-23-2007
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had it aligned last yr cause it was out bad on the toe..... how can I check the caster, have yet to find an easy and straight forward way to check it!
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  #66  
Old 03-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stRanger
had it aligned last yr cause it was out bad on the toe..... how can I check the caster, have yet to find an easy and straight forward way to check it!
magnetic dial angle finder

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  #67  
Old 03-23-2007
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from what i could tell your Cs on the end need to be at 0* to start. that was a problem i had. if i would have known that information to begin with i would have had a much better setup.
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  #68  
Old 03-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
from what i could tell your Cs on the end need to be at 0* to start. that was a problem i had. if i would have known that information to begin with i would have had a much better setup.
The C's determine your caster, so 0* is not what you want. 5-7* back is normal.
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  #69  
Old 03-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
The C's determine your caster, so 0* is not what you want. 5-7* back is normal.
yes but you have to start at 0* and go from there to get what you will need.....not all trucks are going to be the same...
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  #70  
Old 03-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
yes but you have to start at 0* and go from there to get what you will need.....not all trucks are going to be the same...
you should not have 0*, so starting there is not needed. 5-7* is normal operating caster in his case.
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  #71  
Old 03-23-2007
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well i had 12* or something crazy like that. so i took the C and put it at 0*, now what i mean by that is i set the dial angle finder on top of the upper balljoint and put it at 0*

i know the real angle needed is from the lower to upper balljoint. but i didnt do that. lol

anyway after i changed that i could easily drive down a smooth road after that.


but ill admit it i had no clue about that nor did i even give it a thought. all we did was make the coil spring mounts at 0*

pinion angle on mine was not that much concern the angle is not bad at all.
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  #72  
Old 03-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
well i had 12* or something crazy like that. so i took the C and put it at 0*, now what i mean by that is i set the dial angle finder on top of the upper balljoint and put it at 0*

i know the real angle needed is from the lower to upper balljoint. but i didnt do that. lol

anyway after i changed that i could easily drive down a smooth road after that.


but ill admit it i had no clue about that nor did i even give it a thought. all we did was make the coil spring mounts at 0*

pinion angle on mine was not that much concern the angle is not bad at all.
thats not good that means when you flex or extend the suspension your axle is going into -caster, aka trying to steer into the ground. the reason you tilt a axle back and try and have 5 or so degrees back of caster is for that reason.
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  #73  
Old 03-23-2007
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-caster is when the upper balljoint is further ahead(front of the truck) than that lower correct?

+caster is the opposite.

I'm not 100% sure where it is right now but the alignment shop made it much better, atleast i dont think my problems are related to steering.
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  #74  
Old 03-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
-caster is when the upper balljoint is further ahead(front of the truck) than that lower correct?

+caster is the opposite.

I'm not 100% sure where it is right now but the alignment shop made it much better, atleast i dont think my problems are related to steering.
im not sure the technical way if it is + or - but in my head negative caster would be with the top BJ forward of the bottom one.
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  #75  
Old 03-23-2007
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yeah idk either the alignment guy told me but it was so fast i couldnt comprehend lol
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