Achieving the Ideal 4-5" drop on 2005 2WD - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 04-03-2008
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Achieving the Ideal 4-5" drop on 2005 2WD

After hours of surfing the forum I think I got most of my questions answered and also got help from members. Thank you Ryan L.
Subject matter is a 2005 XLT Extended cab with 3.0 stick.
This is not my first time customizing a vehicle but want to make it into my first without cutting corners. Want to keep the motor performance stock but add a custom stance, and a few custom body pieces.
So far I have Roush Body kit and billet grill. On the way is a set of 17x9 Bullitt wheels. Tires are going to be 255-50-17 or 235-55-17s. Any comments on tire size would be appreciated considering:
I use my truck as a daily driver and also need to tow my 6x12 enclosed trailer on the weekends. So a low profile tire is not an option.
I am going for a 4-5" drop and will buy the DJM kit plus shocks. What else is there to it without cutting corners? Any information on a c-notch? and will this notch affect my frame when towing?
Also is there any info on the pinion angle when "flipin" the axle?
I also want to add / upgrade front and rear sway bars from Roush. Any experience with this?
I've had my truck for about two months and it's my first Ranger. And like I mentioned before, I want to look back when I'm done with it and see that it was done the "right" way.are those coils heated??
This is a very fine and informative forum. Congrats to all that participate.
In my case, there's limited info on "how to" when going static lowered compared to lifting. Would love to go sky high, but my better half is shorty like me!! I'm more of a road racer kind of guy. Plus Houston is all flat and concrete.
So if you had a wish list on how to do a 4-5" drop, what would you add or change?
Thank you all for any info and comments.
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Old 04-03-2008
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from what ive gathered recently, 255/50/17 is too tall for a 4" front drop, so may have to reconsider that...

4/5 drop consists of- 2" djm coils (not heated, theyre made shorter), upper and lower control arms, shocks (ppl prefer different ones, i like belltech nitro acvtives)
rear is basically just a flip kit, not much to it, if you are buying right now, stylintrucks.com has the best price on the kits
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.as...sults_trigger=

that will include everything you need except for shocks
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Old 04-03-2008
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Sounds like you're doin it right. I've got the DJM kit on mine, and believe me, it was straight bolt on. Even the alignment was close enough to drive to the alignment shop on. What I haven't done yet, but would recomend, would be a pinion angle shim. I haven't noticed and high speed vibrations, but I think it's a good idea in the long run. I'm not c-notched and almost never bottom out, but if you are going to be pulling a trailer, By all means c-notch it. I just haven't put them in yet. If you notch it corectly and have someone thats good at structural welding put it in, alot of times a 3" notch actually will strengthen the frame around it, so don't worry there. Your ride will get a bit stiffer, but it will also have a lot less "wiggle and sway" to it, making it seem almost smoother at speed. I would recomend gettin the 1.25" Beltec sway bar to round out the handling package. I stay flat and level right up to the point the tires can't take any more. Sounds like you have a good start on a great truck! have fun!
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Old 04-03-2008
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Thanks guys.
Ryan, what size tire are you running?
and John, what / where do you get the c-notch from. The welding part should not be a problem around here.
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Old 04-03-2008
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If you're going to notch it. Definitely have it welded. The kit says it's a "bolt in" but I wouldn't trust it. Also if you're going to be towing, I'd pass on the DJM shocks and get air shocks for the back. DJM shocks a "Shock Wave" with DJM stickers and are VERY firm.
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Old 04-03-2008
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im only 2" in the front, thus im running a 255/50/17, tis why i havent gotten my control arms yet
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Old 04-03-2008
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Maybe I can stagger the tire setup with 255-50s on the back and something like 245-45s on the front? What have you come up for tire size for when you get your control arms? I'll check.
BTW: I just ordered the DJM 4-5" from stylin' like you suggested.
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Old 04-03-2008
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for front tire size, i think it has to be under 26" ? maybe, mark98xlt knows what it is and i think the 245/45 would work, but if it were me, i would keep all tire sizes the same so they could still be rotated and such, plus i dont like staggered tires on trucks unless theyre the same height, but different widths
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Old 04-03-2008
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btw, cant wait to see pics of this all done bud
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Old 04-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raycer60 View Post
Thanks guys.
Ryan, what size tire are you running?
and John, what / where do you get the c-notch from. The welding part should not be a problem around here.
I actually had a friend of mine make a set for me out of 1/4" plate, but they sell them on stylin trucks. Thats where I got my kit from too. They have the best price around for drop kits. I can vouch for how stiff the rear shox are, but it keeps me from bottoming out, so for now, its a trade-off.
BTW, I'm running 225/70R15 27" stock tires on mine with very little rub. Some rub is to be expected when you go low though.....

Last edited by Johnbaum13; 04-03-2008 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 04-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taknotes View Post
btw, cant wait to see pics of this all done bud
X2
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Old 04-03-2008
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Stock tires are 225/70 X 15 = 27.4" tall.
So you could go with 235/55 X 17 = 27.2" tall.
Or 225/55 X 17 = 26.8" tall.
If you're concerned with rub you can use 225/50 X 17 which are only 25.9" tall.
I had 255/55 X18's, 29.0" tall on my truck with a 2"F/3"R drop with only minor rubbing.
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Old 04-04-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnbaum13 View Post
BTW, I'm running 225/70R15 27" stock tires on mine with very little rub. Some rub is to be expected when you go low though.....
Yours is also a reg cab and his is an ext cab. The extended cabs drop more than a reg cab does due to weight. My truck sits about an inch 1/2 to and inch lower than the same drop on a reg cab.

As for tires Anything around 26 will be fine, I run 25 or so with 235/45/17 but I don't rub at all. I say run smaller tires and avoid the rubbing because there is screws on the driver side underneath the plastic inner fender that will eat the middle of your tire and take chunks out of it. Other than that its just noise. I really recomend you stay away from anything near 27" inch in diameter due to rubbing.

As for shocks depends on what kind of ride you want but since you will be towing I say you go for air shocks when you tow air them up and when your not just let the air out of them. DJM's and Toxic's are the same shock. Belltech makes a nice shock also which is better than the toxics. You also have an option for running Nissan Hardbody shocks in the back when its dropped as well they are cheaper and ride like a stock shock.

Bolt in notches are nice, if you dont need one right away you can get away fione with just trimming the bumpstops. With just a flipkit out back it puts you about half inch of clearance away from the bumpstops to the axle, then you can trim them. There is no need to weld if your not towing anything but all the extra stress your putting on the frame by towing I assume with a class 3 hitch I would have it welded or not notch the frame at all. I dont see anything getting hurt having weight on the axle on frame at same time I drove around for the past 2 years with no notch and my axle is on the frame.

Alighment you will have to get aftermarket eccentrics to help correct the camber so you dont get ripped off in price of parts at the alignment shop plsu the labor in parts to install them so its easier just to install them yourself and go to the shop and just have it aligned Ill get the part numbers for you for them from napa later on tonight.

Any other questions just ask

Youll love the kit.
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Old 04-04-2008
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AWESOME!! Thank you all. This info has been great. I think I will be running 225-50-17s. They are about 25.9 inches in diameter.
And yes, I have a class III hitch. I ordered the DJM shocks but will also look into the airshocks.
Does anyone run assist air bags? I had a set on my explorer and they worked great while towing. The Ranger is the substitute for the explo.
And it would be awesome if you can get me that info on the eccentrics so I can install when doing the A arms.
This project is being lined up for the summer. Thats why I am buying parts now. I will be posting pictures as I go.
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Old 04-04-2008
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Ill get the part numbers if I forget just shoot me a pm and Ill get them to you when the time comes.

Youll be fine for now with the shocks but I would invest in some airshocks for your hauling.
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Old 04-16-2008
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Hey guys, I got all my 4/5 suspension parts in. Unfortunatly I'm stuck with a large "honey do list" that will take the next few weekends. So it looks like this will be my June Project, but it's ok.
I ordered the DJM shocks and noticed that the rear shocks are different numbers. One is DJM1900 and the other is DJM1800 which means one is longer by 1 inch than the other. Is this how it should be? and if yes, which one goes to the front and which to the rear of the axle?
Also, I still need to find air shocks for the rear. You have mentioned the nissan hardbody shocks fit a dropped ranger rearend. Is there a specific year of nissan?
I think the air shocks are the missing piece in my puzzle. I will really need them for towing.
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Old 04-16-2008
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BTW, in the instructions with the drop kit, you'll find the part # for the eccentrics to align it. I bought that same part # from my local ABC Auto. And yeah, get them and put them in when you drop it. I bought them, but let the alignment shop put them in, and it cost me $40 to have them put in, and $30 to align it. The bolts cost me $35 btw.
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Old 04-17-2008
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Thanks John. You see...I havn't even opened my boxes!! but I'll be buying that camber kit. Thanks for the advise.
Have you had any issues with your axle hitting the frame? and do you remember your rear shocks being two different lengths?
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Old 04-17-2008
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John, sorry about the question on the rear axle hitting issue, you've answered it previously.
but... the sway bar you recommend is for the rear?
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Old 10-12-2008
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I just put new 225-60R15's on my stock wheel.. I like it with my drop kit.. no pics sorry homes
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Old 10-12-2008
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I wonder if it ever got put on? But if the OP comes on here. I have the Roush sway bar kit and like it. It was worth what I paid, but not too much more.
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Old 10-12-2008
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Judging for the OP's avatar pic, its on, and looking good.
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Old 10-15-2008
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Sorry for disappointing you guys. Itís been frustrating to have all these parts scattered around my house and not have the time to do any work on the truck. The only good thing is that itís because of work that I havenít had the time. Oh, and donít forget IKE; that was fun. Weíre still picking up debris.
But I WILL have it lowered and with new rubber by the end of the year. I really donít want my wife rapping any of the suspension boxes and telling me thatís my Christmas gift!! Lol
I will post as soon as I get started.
About the Roush sway bar... is it worth adding it?
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