Advice on a total of 6" of lift (suspension and body) - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 04-30-2014
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Icon2 Advice on a total of 6" of lift (suspension and body)

Hey guys I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT step-side, 3.0l v6, 4x4.

I plan on lifting the truck this summer when I have the money. I was going to go to a local shop to have them put it in because they have a warranty on all parts they install including lift parts and will replace them if they break for free, even if it is from wheeling the vehicle. The lift I wanted to do was a 3" suspension lift kit and a 3" body lift kit. I do have a few questions as follows:

1) Will I be able to fit 33"s on with that amount of lift (I don't mind cutting the fenders back a few inches if need be)

2) One of my friends had told me that the 3.0l engine wouldn't be able to wheel with 33"s unless it was regeered. I understand that regeering would make it better but I thought it should spin them fine on and off the road without regeering. Any comments on this?

Any information regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Tyler
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Old 04-30-2014
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1)Yes you will be able to fit 33s with that lift

2)Depends on what gears you have now. If you have 4.10s, then yes it will turn the wheels. However, it is going to be hell on your tranny (are you auto?), and you are not going to like that power. I would go to 4.56 with that setup.
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Old 04-30-2014
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Don't waste your money on the "3 inch suspension lift" because its probably torsion keys for the front and blocks for the rear.


Crank the torsion bars up front and get an add-a-leaf kit for the rear and then do the body lift. Thats how my current truck is right now and I could fit 35's if i wanted to.

My old 99 3.0L turned the 33x12.5R15 mud terrains just fine with 4.10 gears and it would still do posi burnouts. My auto trans never had a problem and i beat on that truck a lot lol. The one i have now gets babied


Oh and welcome from Central Mass
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Old 04-30-2014
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Thanks for the advice guys, the only question I have left really then is about cranking on the torsion bars. I heard that if you crank them and then offroad with them cranked up that they brake and are crap for offroading. Is there any truth to this?
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Old 04-30-2014
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Oh, and my truck is a standard.
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Old 04-30-2014
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I just noticed the "welcome from central mass", I live between Worcester and Springfield. so not too far away haha!
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Old 04-30-2014
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You will just go through front end parts faster by having them torqued all the way. Personally I crank them all the way, then crank them back just a little bit
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Old 04-30-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerTyler View Post
Thanks for the advice guys, the only question I have left really then is about cranking on the torsion bars. I heard that if you crank them and then offroad with them cranked up that they brake and are crap for offroading. Is there any truth to this?
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Oh, and my truck is a standard.
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I just noticed the "welcome from central mass", I live between Worcester and Springfield. so not too far away haha!
You'll need the shifter extension for the body lift
I'm on my 3rd ranger with torsion bars cranked all the way. I havent broken anything till this day. Front end components such as ball joints and tie rods will wear quicker but I've never run into any major trouble at all. My current truck tows, goes off road, and drives on the street just fine with 5" of lift and 33x12.5R15 BFG km2's.
Yeah not too far away, I'm over near Leominster. A body lift, add a leaf, and cranking the torsion bars isn't hard if you wanted to tackle it yourself. I lifted my current truck by myself in 13 hours with air tools

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You will just go through front end parts faster by having them torqued all the way. Personally I crank them all the way, then crank them back just a little bit
x2
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Old 05-01-2014
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Originally Posted by redranger04g View Post
You will just go through front end parts faster by having them torqued all the way. Personally I crank them all the way, then crank them back just a little bit
He'll go through front end parts faster regardless if the t-bars are cranked all the way up or not. The 33s are a lot bigger tire than factory equipped. Since putting the 33s on my truck it loves to eat lower ball joints and inner tie rods.

I'll have to agree with 99offroadrngr don't waste your money on the suspension lift. You will fit 33s just fine with the 3" body lift. The only real affordable suspension lift I know of is the 4 1/2" lift from superlift. And with that and a body lift your truck will clear 35s. I don't really recommend 35s though unless you want to be replacing front end parts on a regular basis.

And the truck will defiantly have enough power to turn the 33s. My truck has the 4.0l with an auto and 4.10s and I tow with it and haul scrap metal a couple times a year still has lots of power, just handling becomes a factor.
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Old 05-01-2014
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Ok, now I really am considering just cranking on the t-bars. If it do that and the 3" body lift how much room will I have in the well for the tires? I'm just wondering if I will have more wiggle room to say if I put a 3" suspension lift in and a 3" body. I dont really know to much when it comes to t-bars. I use to have a lifted Jeep Cherokee so it was all coil springs in the front end for me, and that's what I learned. But thanks for the help everyone I really appreciate it!
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Old 05-01-2014
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cranked bars, 3" body lift, 2" add a leaf. 5" of lift

plenty of room in the wheel wells
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and plenty of room to flex


same truck but with an 06+ grille i had



and for the hell of it, heres my old 99

Last edited by 99offroadrngr; 05-01-2014 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 05-02-2014
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Yea, that truck looks good! I like the grill too. Thanks for the help man!
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Old 05-02-2014
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no problem. try getting a few friends and installing the body lift yourself, its fairly easy.
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