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Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 09-23-2012
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alignment help!

No one locally can help me or offer insight as to what camber/caster bushings I need. This sheet is from the alignment shop i usually go to. The driver side currently has a fixed 1 3/4 degree bushing, and the passenger side has a 2 degree bushing. Can anyone tell me by looking at this what degree bushing would bring the alignment to spec? I'm pulling my hair out over this and I've been to 3 alignment shops plus my local Ford dealer and nobody has any clues. My guess is a 3/4 degree bushing on the driver side and a 1 1/4 degree on the passenger side? (on a side note, i was instructed to not use adjustable bushings as they are apparently difficult to work with for alignment shops.)
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Old 09-24-2012
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Anybody? Anything? Was hoping to tackle this tomorrow.
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Old 09-25-2012
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Holy **** your toe was out O.o..... As far as bushings go, i dont know why you would need bushings or what is on there. If you already have them you might be screwed because they are probably maxxed out. However, you need Camber BOLTS. the rmove the upper control arm bolts one at a time and replace the square looking washers with rounded ones. I did mine myself when i lifted my truck. Its really easy to do though most shops charge 50 bucks for it on each side plus parts. I think they make them in 11/2 degree and 3 degree change. Looks like the 3 degree is what you need to get it perfect but they are hard or impossible to find. The 11/2 will make it better though and they are easier to find. Good luck with your alignment though... On a side note though, i am an alignment tech and looking at this there are a few things that throw me. First your SAI has a 3 degree difference which means one of two things, 1) this truck was in some huge wreck and the frame is bent or 2) the messed up and got it on the rack wrong and the whole alignment is probably off. it just looks horrible before... 2 degrees of tow being out would kill your tires so unless you put new tie rods on that also doesnt make sense. overall it just looks like it was done wrong. Reading it caster pulls it to the right 1.7 degrees, camber pulls it left 1.0 degrees so if it was done on the rack right you should feel a decent right pull of .7 degrees, well into the "noticable pull range". Thats just my 2 cents though but defidently get camber bolts.
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Old 09-25-2012
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Yeah everything was out of whack because i formerly had 2" lift springs in there with 4 degree bushings and nobody could get it straight, so i took 'em out and put new factory springs in. But yes, before this truck came into my possession it must've been in a bit of a gnarly accident. The rear axle is actually kinked slightly and i had to replace one of the drum brake backing plates because it was bent about an inch! O_o As far as i can deduce, somebody decided to go wheeling and hit a stump at some speed, twisting the frame a bit and mucking up that rear axle (that's my guess anyway). From what i can tell is that when it was in spec before, the passenger side was .5 degrees more positive than the driver side, so i only need to know the bushing degree of one side.
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Old 09-27-2012
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I used one of the adjustable bushings i had and set it to the degree rating I thought was correct. After installing it in the truck, things looked good so I'm just going with my instincts on this one and see what happens.
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