Today at work I got bored so I decided to throw my truck up on the alignment rack and play with the torsion bars to see how much the readings would actually change. To my suprise (mostly due to reading some of the other posts here) even when I tightened the bolt all the way the readings didn't change much at all. When I started the camber was about -0.7 degrees and the toe was at -0.02 degrees.
With the bars cranked all the way the camber went to -0.5 degrees and the toe didn't really change. I wish I took a picture of the screen, but I didn't have my camera with me.
So my conclusion... as long as your alignment isn't already way out of whack, cranking the torsion bars will not adversly affect tire wear. Oh, I didn't bother to measure the caster because it is a useless reading. It doesn't cause tire wear and it won't cause a pull.

 

Really? You'd think otherwise.. Did you give the truck a good bounce (jump on the bumper or something) to get it to settle after adjusting the t-bars?! Did you measure ride hight? How far outside of the Ford specs are you w/ a full crank?

 

I have a question: the suspension doesn't shift much if you crank the bars in a "static" state. You have to move the vehicle before you can even see most of the result of the extra torsion. If you just tightened them with the truck on the lift, that wouldn't necessarily tell you the whole story.

Can you repeat it sometime with the bars near max-ed out, drive around the block, and then measure the alignment? I would be curious if that would change it.

Most people have found when they cranked their bars without moving the truck, they got no lift -- but when they moved the vehicle, the front came up. That's what makes me think your test might not be conclusive enough.

 

A couple of times I used the jacks on the alignment rack to lift the front end of the truck to take the weight off of the suspension (lifting on the front cross member). I also grabbed on to the sway bar and and bounced the suspension. I was thinking I was going to watch the camber go right out of spec but it didn't. The numbers stayed within Ford specs.
I measured the ride height from the ground to the top of the curve of the wheel opening. It is about 35 1/4 inches. That is about 1 1/4 inches higher than I started. The rear is at 36 inches.

 

I'll put it on the rack again on Monday.

 

Okay, that's pretty good. I know that "supposedly" you don't get many problems until you get much over an inch -- but we've never had anyone try to prove it before!

Very good information and thanks for experimenting with this -- even if it was from boredom, lol!

Well, if nothing else -- you've leveled out your truck!

 

Ok folks. I put the truck up on the rack again after driving it for a couple days with the new "lift". Check it out. Sorry I don't have any pics from saturday when I first cranked the t-bars. You'll just have to believe me when I say the alignment didn't change. http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/676517/3

 

Awesome. Wish I had access (and the knowledge) to use one of those anytime I wanted!

 

I consider my self an alignment expert, been doing it for about 8 years-- torsion bar tightening will NOT change your alignment, BUT if you somehow change camber- you WILL change toe!!! NO DOUBT ABOUT IT! also, someone said "caster doesnt matter".
wrong caster is the angle most responsible for vehicle pulling. toe is your #1 tire wearing angle and camber is considered long term tire wearing angle and can cause vehilce pull also.

 

how do u crank the torsion bars? will someone please do a write up for me? i wanna do it but i'm scared to just go at it....

also, how reliable is the t-bar crank? i dont wanna be driving downt he road and my front end fall out...

 

So some searching for the pros and cons, it's been discussed here and on orr a lot.

 

Well, here's some things to think about.

I have the weakest front torsion bars ("F" type). I cranked them, and ran them offroad with blown front shocks before I got the RSX's and ragged them out. If you're going to crank it, better consider that if you put much stress on the front end, the bars will cycle through more compression before hitting the bump stops than they would if they were at the stock adjustment position. Good shocks (which will limit how much the suspension flexes on hard hits to some extent) may help this.

I'm getting stiffer front bars, to help with this (I hope). But I do think the warnings of a torsion bar crank increasing the rate of fatigue are valid, and I'm experiencing it. My t-bar adjusters are all the way in now, just to maintain a 1 to 2 inch lift in the front.

Ford's own documents warn of possible alignment problems after torsion bar adjustment. This is extra work they would probably avoid if they could. I don't know why some trucks have a problem and some don't -- but it's foolish to assume you won't need and alignment. Best get it done after the adjustment to help insure you don't rag your tires.

 

Did this take that Stink bug look off your truck or no... because my truck has a big problem with showing off its rear end :/ look ridiculous.

 

Sounds like your truck is looking for an..errr...mate.

As for you Tippnover, theres lots of writeups on the Torsion bar mod. I plan on doing it soon to my truck, hopefully i will be able to fit 33s. Otherwise, ill have to "sneak" the bodylift onto my truck...

Aaron

 

after i cranked my tbars, my camber was off:

 

Man that sure is a nice looking truck!

Brenton

 

hey, u had that ricer look going on...lol

I want to do this also... John(n3elz), do you have a how-to on this?