in those pics, take out the leaf springs and replace the shocks with coil-overs.. that's what i want to do

yo effectivly get more travel from a shock. say you have a 12" travel shock, that can limit your travel pretty easily on a long travel suspension setup..

the cantilever system is like a lever, and depending on how its designed you can get like twice the travel, for ever inch the shock travels the axle goes two. the only catch is you need twice as heavy springs..

I know someone else can explain it better, but thats the idea.

 

Alright, I understand now. Thanks man.

 

thats how it was described to me, good to know i can kinda sorta describe stuff lol..


its also nice when you don't have lots of room to work with or don't want to cut the bed up for some huge shocks.

 

Essentially, cantilever setups are used to maintain a bed while running longer shocks.

The general idea is similar to a pushrod setup on open-wheeled cars... the concept is to start with a link mounted off the axle then connected to a rocker and then the shock is connected to the rocker and mounted on the frame somewhere.

The tricky part is mounting your shock and designing the rocker. Some rocker designs may very well be able to achieve wheel travel twice that of their shock... but then their motion ratio is 0.5 and the shock is working ridiculously hard.

sooo..... yeah that's the concept.

 

I really want to, I just don't know if i can justify it when i could just replace the leaf springs and be fine..

 

theres a company that makes a kit to do this. i seen it in a magazine

 

it can't anywhere near a bolt on kit can it?
maybe the rockers, some tubing and some rod ends, and shocks?


all the pics they posted were of just shocks.. the Ultimate Z71 is using Coil-overs so you still have to 3 or 4 link the axle

 

it would be like doing your sas all over again

 

those pictures are nice to look at, but just looking at them makes me hurt as an engineer. Granted the ones there are only used for shocks, the strength isn't as essential. For coilovers though, there's no way it would hold up. With the pivot in single shear, it would pull out of the frame the first hard bump it saw. Like I said though, it's cool and can be a good idea in theory, I just think it's too complicated for the home builder to build an build right.

 

just needs more bracing and support. you can build it to handle a good solid jump. just over engineer it :D

 

[/IMG]http://images.4wheeloffroad.com/tech...under_view.jpg
http://images.4wheeloffroad.com/tech...under_view.jpg

kinda like this set up for a JK??

 

yeah, that looks right

 

I didn't say i was going to do it, I was going to link it and leave the leaf springs on there if possible then take it down to a shop for them to build the cantilever setup

if i do it, I'll be making it all with double shear if possible

looks like a double shear setup to me.

 

Matt make sure you sit down when they tell you the price. The kit for the JK is right around $5,000 just for the rear and you have to supply new control arms.

 

it won't be that high unless that price didn't include the kings.


but still, its gonna be a few grand in labor probably, and idk if i can justify it.. I'm gonna see what alcan wants for some springs.

 

I talked to alcan there springs are $215 each, with the bushings. These are for there custom springs.

 

I think a kit could be reasonably done, however because of the nature of the rockers' construction, the cost is going to be up, even if it was done in boxed construction and the setup would require a reasonably high skill level to make sure everything cycles the way it's supposed to and doesn't bind or anything goofy like that. I agree with Kyle, too, anything receiving any measure of axial load (ie: something not pivoting) should be double sheer... especially in an application where your **** is being hauled around inside.

 

do it that will be sweet

 

Plus cantilever systems on rangers offer a very smooth ride out of the rear end. Which is pretty nice considering that rangers are pretty bumpy in the rear.

 

Just link it and run a regular set of 14" or so C/O's. You'll save tons of cash.

 

I'll see what happens..

If i can get a job I'll finish what i need, cross over steering, gear/lock the rear and a front drive shaft.. then I'll start looking into getting a nice welder and go from there.. its getting linked one way or another.

 

mine rides pretty nice with that bumper and a lot of scrap in the bed.. the front having little to no up travel is what hurts