What is a good and cheap lift for my ranger

 

It really depends on your suspension. If you have torsions, you can turn them to gain a couple inches of lift. If you have coils you can add a bigger 3" coil or add a 1 or 2 inch coil spacer. Spacers are cheap a 3" coil lift will run you about $150 (for Maxtracs I think) You could also do a spindle lift. That's what I have. For the back you could do a block, add a leaf, or shackles. If you want bigger tires and don't care about bottoming out when your off roading you could get a 1" or 3" body lift. Those basically lift the body off the frame. Is your truck 2wd or 4x4?

 

4wd but i hate body lifts refuse to do one. Who makes a cheap lift kit do you know?

 

Google 4wd ranger suspension lift there is tons to choose from

 

OP is 4x4 which means torsion. No such thing as a cheap lift for a 4x4 torsion bar truck. Body lift is cheap, but I see you don't want one. You can a) crank your torsion bars and get a lift shackle or add a leaf and get a couple inches. Or b) find a used superlift (about $1000 or more) and get 4". Choice is yours.

In my opinion, nothing is wrong with a body lift. I've had one for about a year and I know others that have had them longer than I with absolutely no problem. Being 4x4, you are very limited on what you can do for a lift. Especially cheaply.

 

What's your definition of cheap? Couple hundred bucks? A thousand?

Since you refuse to do a body lift, which is unquestionably the best "bang for your buck" lift for Rangers, you're extremely limited on options since your main criteria is price.

The next cheapest route you can go is a spindle lift up front with shackles in the rear. It's not a "kit" like you say you want so you're going to have to buy the parts separately, and it's still going to cost you quite a bit more than a body lift.

 

Justin, he can't do spindles up front because he is a 4x4

 

That's right; my bad. That makes his options even more limited.

 

That means just torsions right?

 

It means that suspension wise, he CA. Either crank his current bars for a couple inches at the most, or superlift for 4 inches. Those are the only 2 options without doing a SAS.

 

JP, the SuperLift (SL) Kit is expensive when compared to a body lift but it only gives you room for 33" tires MAX; if you want 35" tires then you will also need a body lift no matter what.
The only option for 35" tires with only a suspension lift is an SAS and custom spring setup.

The SL look great and a Ranger on 33 X 12.50's looks good so if you have the extra cash (2K$+), plus tire and rims, you can get the truck on 33s.

I did the SL Lift kit got a little more than 4" and run 33" tires, I don't off road the truck because the tires would hit, that is another thought for you.

Also, when you play with the T-Bars, you screw up the spring rate built in to them and the truck WILL ride rougher, short bed truck worse than long beds.
A lot of people go to the Coil Spring Over Shock setup but that another 2K$ so things get pricey quick.

You need to look at what you really want, then look at what the end results will be, if you can handle the end results then that lift might be for you.

One last thing, I know a lot of guys that went the crank the T-Bar route and afterwards wished they hadn't cranked them up because of the ride.

Ok I am rumbling now, think it threw, done jump until you are ready !

 

Invest on superlift and you will be glad you did. This stuff has good quality and is solid built.

 

I am looking to lift my Ranger. I'm not much of an off road enthusiast, I've never had to worry about lifting vehicles because I've always had full sized F series pickups and never really drive anywhere horrible off road that stock suspension cant handle. Now that I've started to use my ranger to go coyote hunting I am finding that its too narrow, and I am bottoming out on two track roads that I normally drive on with my full sized pickups. I'm not really looking for major suspension travel. More just the option to widen the track, and have the option to go to an 235/75/15 or maybe a 31x10.50x15. I think the 31's will be too fat tho. my thoughts to widen the track are to get some wheel spacers. any advice would be well received. Thanks

 

Why not just run aftermarket torsion keys instead of cranking the stock torsion bars. Then you don't have to worry about putting as angle therefore much stress on the front drive train. Your bearings will thank you. Either way, you'll want to get your front end realigned to eliminate the positive camber that you've just created.
That's what I plan on doing to my 99 4x4, just enough to level the front to the rear.

 

Keys or cranking do the exact same thing, twist the torsion bar farther than the factory set it and give you a much stiffer ride.