I thought you only have to cut those off for installing the superlift kit. His is stock height still I believe.

 

wouldn't extended a-arms completely fix getrdone's rough ride and clearance issues? Upper bj's are obviously fully extended and isn't giving him any down travel?

 

Nope - The factory mounts have to be removed to even fit the coilover in place either way (Superlifted or Stock). Some people have been able to relocate the factory bumpstop itself, inboard a little more.

Checkout the cut area to the left of the coilover (just above the CV boot) in this picture Getrdone52 posted:

 

although if you're stock height, you should still get a bumpstop in there, no?

 

Yep - it's cheap insurance.

One of those universal style setups should work to install somewhere.

 

mike rider used these bumpstops for a jeep tj.
Daystar™ - Driven by Design

 

You cut the mount back for the bumpstop, but you need to put it back on, or use an aftermarket one. There is still plenty of space on the mount after you cut it back. Look at Mikerider's pics. That's with the mount cut back. You definitely don't want to be running without a bump stop. That's a good way to damage your shocks.

This would definitely help in a cranked situation, but the problem is the angle it sits at, because any further travel just brings it in toward the coil very quickly.

 

im a little late to the party, but ill still add my comments. from what i can find in the searches a 3.0L is about 350lbs. the 4.0L is 450lbs.
might be enough to go to a softer spring for the guy who is maxed out. i was gonna say adjust your preload however, i saw you posted the pic of your springs and realized they are not 10" springs.

i also want to clear up, mikerider has very long bumpstops. afaik he's super lifted no? a stock truck would need a much smaller bumpstop. such as thesehttp://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=653

this previous comment reminds me of a question that came to mind, how does ones figure out how much preload to put when doing the swap?
another question after reading the last two pages, what constitutes a "HD skid plate'? i have one that is heavier then stock but it wouldnt consider it something offered by ARP.

ME, i forget if it was you or someone else (and dont feel like going back the page as im gonna loose my train of thought) but someone said they are not happy with the stiffness of their rear now.
this is something i thought of when i sat down with rob to discuss how we were gonna do this.
i just got my ranchos last year but im gonna swap them out for some foxes to match the front.

i havent purchased my softer springs yet as i wanna wait and order all i need at once and that is gonna be a larger purchase. i plan on ordering my straps, bumpstops, softer coils rear shocks and maybe leafs and a couple other items. i was thinking of getting a 700 and seeing if they settle to my liking. worst case, i buy a 650 set and sell the 700s. i like a stiffer ride tho but i told my buddy what is was gonna do and he said "its gonna ride like a caddy!"

 

i see i am the victim of a double post....

 

To get it on a current page:
New list:
SteelDirigible - powdercoated
RLong31 - powdercoated

 

Let me run this by you all and see if you have any insight, if my 12inch springs are to stiff causing the truck to ride to high like getrdone's truck, but having 650s 10inch in his truck now causes him to sit 1inch above stock and looks like from his picture really reduces the amount of travel left in the shock. Would having really soft 12s say 500lb let the truck sit level while taking advantage of better travel and inprove the ride better than a cranked down 10inch spring?

 

I still need to adjust the coils for ride height though. I think that's what ME00stepside is planning on doing, 500lb 12" springs.

Finally I got everything done and it is much better. I kinda wish the 650's were a little softer but I am happy with them. Hopefully they soften up a bit in a few months. One thing happened while install though, the truck was jacked up and i was turning the steering wheel to get better access to bolts and stuff, and all of a sudden power steering fluid shot out of the cap (literally on to the hood) and got everywhere. (That's what's in the fender in the first pic) and now I've noticed when I turn right at like 30 mph (like on ramp on a highway) it shakes pretty bad, kinda like the jeeps death wobble if any of you are familiar with that. I just thought that was weird. I'm going to get an alignment this weekend and that may be the problem but I will have to wait and see. Anyways on with the pics



I messed up my paint job on the welds because I was in a hurry to get them on and scratched them but it's ok.




Oh and I need to adjust my coils, my truck shrunk almost to stock height haha

Before


After


Before


After

 

I did some suspension travel testing on mine last weekend. First I removed the torsion bars so I could travel the suspension without moving the truck off the jack stands. The first limiting factor was my shocks. With the shocks removed the CV joints started binding and with a cv joint remove finally the upper ball joint ran out of travel.

So with the longer travel shocks you have your CV joint will be binding anytime your suspension travels down very far.

 

Good! Glad to hear it's better!

Just to clear it all up - It looks like you ended up going with a 10" spring setup?

After seeing your pictures the other week - I'm betting most people will have 'issues' running a 12" spring on a stock height truck - regardless of the desired spring weight.

Yep - That's why we recommend running limit straps - to prevent the suspension from overextending itself.

 

I have a feeling my post was missed. There is a some good points and questions in it so. I quoted it. I long read I know but I feel it's worth it.

 

Ya 10" 650lb springs. I am not sure what will happen if there was a 12" 500lb spring. I'm kinda curious. But I think since RCD made this kit they tested all the different combos and they chose 650lb 10" for a reason.

Sorry man.

I am not sure about the engine weight. What is so different that makes the 4.0 100 lbs heavier?

Ya I'm pretty sure he is super lifted. Any bump stop can work it depends where you mount it but if you want it in the same spot as the pic then yes those should work.

I forgot to set the preload when I put mine in the second time so i'll have to set it. I think there is a key you can get to move the big ring. I'm not exactly sure how to set it the right way. I'd just set the rings a little above the spring so there is play before you put it in and when you put it in the play will go away.

As for the skid plate I'm not sure.

It was probably me that said the rear was stiff, all i have is an add a leaf. I am going to switch to a shackle in the rear soon and ditch the aal. Fox shocks in the rear will work good. If you like a stiffer ride go with the 10" 650's

 

Yes I am Superlifted, but the TJ bumpstops I bought are trim to fit, my pasenger side is trimed 1/4" shorter to acount for the front diff brace that mounts in the same location on that side. If you want to run them you can, stokers will probably work fine relocated inward.

I also have some limit strap pictures for those of you looking for options.

My last set up was 100% bolt on and worked OK but I managed to bend my mounting clevises to the point of not being functional.

so now that I have a welder I changed them up

New vs old ( you can see the bend in the lower mounted clevis.)



the new set up uses a sleeve and standoffs that is welded to the frame next to the shock tower support bracket.

Lower tab mounted and burned in



all painted and tight ( this should be much more robust.)



Parts used

10in Limit strap (2)
Ruff Stuff Specialties limit strap bracket (2)
Poly Performance limit strap clevis with mounting sleeve (2)

 

Thanks man! Have a pic of the top mount? Is that sleeve welded in or what?

 

See, this is strange. I have the 5.5" travel shocks, and 10" springs. My truck sits maybe 2" higher than this right now, but I've got them adjusted as high as they can go, and I've got considerably more available downward travel in the shock than you appear to. We need to get a good comparison of the different shock brands and models, in their eyelet-to-eyelet measurements. There are definitely some major differences in them, even for what seem to be comparable models.

 

In his post he says he needs to adjust the coils for ride height. Is that the same as adjusting preload? Would more preload cause there to be more down travel?

I am interested/worried about the steering fluid incident and would like go know why.

 

Look at how high up my "rings" (part the spring sits on, not sure what else to call them) are in this picture. I just need to lower them and I will gain in inch or two back and i will have more down travel. Like in mikerider's pic his "ring" is way lower. I know he is Superlifted and mine won't go that low but once I adjust it it should be normal.


Do you have a pic of yours to compare?

I'm not exactly sure what "preloading" is; can you elaborate?

I too am curious about the steering fluid incident but haven't received an answer yet. Maybe it was just a random thing.

 

I looked around for a potential reason....and on the 'other' Ranger forum I found the following from a thread years back. It sounds like this is the ticket:

"Well when you turn the steering wheel without the truck running a lot of times it forces the power steering fluid out of the reservoir and it usually ends up all over the underside of the hood, battery and side of the engine. I bet if you look you’ll see the cap for the reservoir dislodged and loose. the reason the power steering acted funny at first was because all the fluid had been forced out of the system, into the reservoir and then out the cap, it just takes a minute to get the fluid back into the system. Just clean everything off, top off the fluid level and you’ll be good to go, no harm done, it’s just something these trucks do."

 

Thanks man. That's exactly what happened too and it didn't do it at all today. Someone on the 'other' forum said he had the same problem when he replaced his wheel bearings, which I replaced as well, but this seems to make more sense. Glad it's nothing serious.

 

I'm pretty sure my steering wheel locks if you turn it very much when the truck is off.

 

mine too steel.

those "rings" are what you use "spanner wrenches" to adjust your "preload". which correct me if im wrong (please someone) means i just answered my own question.