And right now with the long eyelets in I only have about 2.5" of upward travel And that is with the A-arms all the way down. So with the weight on the truck and such I would pan on seeing only 1-1.5" of upward travel. Talk about a bone jarring ride

 

ya mine rode like ****. basically I had 1 inch of uptravel and was riding on the bumpstop the whole time. rode like **** with almost no suspension. rides badass now. I have no idea why they gave me the ones they gave me. I assumed they knew which ones I was supposed to have. they said that lots and lots of people come to them for shocks for the ranger coilover conversion. I gladly would have not bought them longer ones and wasted 70$. at least now I can tell people definitely do not buy the 4 1/2 inch long ones for a stock truck. I can see where a 6.5 inch shock and the 4 1/2 inch eyelet would be great for a truck with a 3 to 4 inch lift. the shock is 1 1/2 inches longer than the 5 inch ones and the eyelet is 1 1/2 inches longer than my 3 inch long eyelet. that makes sense for a truck that is lifted 3 to 4 inches above stock.

 

If someone could measure their eyelets and let me know the length of theirs I would be much appreciative. My long ones are 4.488 inches and my shorter ones they sent me that came with the shock are 2.963 inches. Thanks

 

Here are the 2 rod ends, one stock at 2.96 and one at 4.5


The long ends worked great on the super-lifted application

 

And there seems to be the dilemma

 

Thanks for the pic. Those are the 2 I have and I had to use the shorter one. I had maybe 3/4 inch of up travel at ride height with the long ones. The short ones clear the cv shaft.

 

id love to see some pics of someones bone stock truck with the coilovers. mine even with the short eyelets when I let it droop all the way down till the uca hits the coil is only extended out to about 4 inches, maybe a little over. and when I cycle the suspension up( did this with the coil off of course ) the shock is close to being completely compressed with the stock bumpstop squashed. its close enough that I might get a little bit longer bumpstop befor I start pounding on it just to be safe that its not gonna bottom the shock hard.

 

You guys have any pics of your upper mounts? Something is not adding up, any clean shot with the tire off?

 

What would you like to see. I have no body on the truck so it is in the wide open

I have my camber bolts shoving the Upper A-arm All the way out and the coil STILL hits the upper a-arm

 

A few wide angle shots front right and left showing the entire coilovers and mounts. Then detail pictures of the lower and upper mounts. Should be able to tell from that if something specific is causing you guys issues

 

I'll try in the am. Chassie is outside and it is raining

 

this is from befor I put the short eyelet on. tomorrow ill take as many pics as u want to see. there is nothing I did different than anyone else could have. its to straightr forward to screw something up. there isn't anything I could have done different. there is only 1 way to put the bracket kit and shocks on. and I saw brads pics and his looks like mine did with the long eyelets.

 

 

 

 

 

So can anyone tell me what I did wrong?>

 

so can someone with a stock ranger post a pic with the coilover and the long eyelet. I want to see someones truck without the shock almost compressed at ride height. does no one have the coilover without a lift or no camera

 

thanks for the pictures, nice job on the install. from what I can see it looks like everything is correct. the upper shock bolt does seem a little far out of the shock pocket though.

Things I would verify; Upper bracket seated in shock pocket with aluminum spacer, upper bracket flush to back of shock tower, large bolt for upper mount tightened down prior to marking and drilling 2x 3/8 in bolt holes.

example of my upper mount tucked in more



also your at full extension when the coil hits the a arm so it should pose no issue. it may be from the design of your A arm (my moogs contacted at full top out but it was at the same time the CV bound so I just rotated to coil slightly and shortened up my straps to avoid contact.)

what weight spring are you running? heavier springs are thicker and may cause more interference.

are you running 10" springs or 12s? you may also just need more preload on the springs to get it lower on the shock body (this would help Truckin too)

example I had 2.65" of thread on each shock

 

Aluminum bushings were Fully seated before the 3/8 holes were drilled and the bracket is all the way to the rear of the shock bracket

I am running a 800lb spring

Adding MORE preload would only amplify the problem, since it is sitting there at Full droop. Don't get me wrong there is no body on the truck but the full drivetrain is in there

As for spring lengths, my paperwork from DownSouth says 2.5" king springs #SPR25-10-800 So I will Assume that is 2.5" 10" 800lb

IIRC I have 2.5" from the shredder valve to the top lock nut

 

Good news on the upper bracket. And it sounds like your preload is at a good starting point ( you may need to adjust for ride height when the body goes back on.

It must be a combination of the spring size and the design of your particular brand control arm.

I have 700lbs and 800lbs eibach springs (never had to install the 800s but I have them)!and there is a major difference on the gauge of the spring steel used in the coil. My 700s were tight I bet the 800s would have worse issues like what your seeing

My recommendation would be:

• shorten your limit straps
• try a different UCA (Moog problem solvers or BTF tube UCA may have more clearance)
• try rotating the spring on the coilovers so the UCA is in the gap of a coil at top out.
• you might be able to clearance the UCA at the contact point without reducing an major strength ( I would try the other solutions first)

 

I have 10 inch eibach springs. only 650 pound. with the extended eyelets I tried the preload 5 different adjustments. I started out weak and tightened it about a half inch each time. by the time I got down to the amount youre at my truck rode like a lumber wagon. and the shock was just plane too long. with the short eyelets its good. with the bumpstop squashed it still compresses the shock almost all the way and at full droop the shock has almost an inch left of travel. a little shorter would be even better but I'm not stupid. I realize there isn't going to be a perfect application. plus youre running a lift. I just want to see someones photos without a lift. there is no way someone can have a 5 inch travel fox shock with the extended eyelet and have the proper amount of shock travel. it just aint possible. the shock is too long.

 

Not saying I am right or wrong just providing my experience. I have swapped 5 trucks but all have been superlifted. If the short eyes clear that's fantastic and no reason not to run it like that.

 

and I used the exact spacers that me00stepside gave me. my upper mount is definitely up tight to the spacer and tight to the back of the tower. that small amount wouldn't matter anyhow. the shorter eyelet is 1.5 inches shorter and I needed every bit of that. with the long eyelet the shock bottomed out a mile befor it got any where near the bumpstop. I hopew someone posts some pics with a stock truck. of course with a 4 inch lift youre gonna need the 1.5 inch longer shock and the extra 1.5 inch length that the extended eyelet gives you. that's common sense.

 

ya I'm not saying youre right or wrong either. I'm just glad the short ones clear cuz if they didn't I couldn't have kept driving it with the long ones. it didn't have any suspension. and the short ones don't clear by a lot. I just wanted to see a pic of one of those trucks that someone was saying tons of trucks have been done and had no problem like me and brad but not one person has put up a pic of a stock truck.