D44 HighSteer Arms - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 10-23-2007
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D44 HighSteer Arms

I am wanting to get my high steer arms so that i can have the knuckles drilled before i put it on the axle for the first time. A few questions

Is there an advantage to having a longer arm? If I got one with double holes it would be longer which i would think that would make it steer easier...

Or doesnt it matter and i can just get a short style and continue to put the tie rod in the stock location...
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Old 10-23-2007
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Id go with parts mike highsteer arms. The problem with a two hole is its hard to get your panhard to match up with it, since it connects your draglink so far to the end of the axle. Where as a single hole with the draglink connected to the tie rod will be easyer to match up the panhard.
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Old 10-23-2007
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I am going to take my panhard mount will be on the outside of the coil mount. I have a picture of an example but ill have to find it when i get home.

i dont want to use the drag link into the tie rod because i constantly have issues with my current setup and it turning/twisting the tie rod.
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Old 10-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
I am going to take my panhard mount will be on the outside of the coil mount. I have a picture of an example but ill have to find it when i get home.

i dont want to use the drag link into the tie rod because i constantly have issues with my current setup and it turning/twisting the tie rod.
Whats wrong with it turing the tierod? it can only turn so far and the joints are made to turn.
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Old 10-23-2007
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as it twist that is inacuracy in the steering or delay. at least i think it seems that way. i would also think it wears the TRE out faster. if you try to turn the wheel real hard it will break the JAM nuts loose as well and trust me i tighten those suckers down tight.
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Old 10-23-2007
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I don't have to deal with a panhard, but I prefere having the drag link connect to the steering arm rather than the tie rod. it would seem to give much more control of the steering due to the physics, as you are in control of a fixed point as opposed to pushing/pulling in between two points, with less leverage (hope that made sense).

There's parts mike highsteer arms as one option, as well as some available through http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/
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Old 10-23-2007
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That is my thought exactly, and i was looking at either ballistic or mikes
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Old 10-23-2007
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get a 2 hole for the pass side and a 1 hole on the drivers side (or you can get 2 2holes)

Run the draglink to the pass side forward hole and run the tierod to the 2 rear holes.
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Old 10-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yomie
get a 2 hole for the pass side and a 1 hole on the drivers side (or you can get 2 2holes)

Run the draglink to the pass side forward hole and run the tierod to the 2 rear holes.
that still leaves him with the problem of getting his panhard to match up to the draglink
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Old 10-23-2007
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this is what i am thinking about for the panhard bar except double shear, ive seen it done on other trucks but this is the only picture i have. ignore the welded highsteer arm. :rollseyes:

Last edited by zabeard; 08-26-2008 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 10-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yomie
get a 2 hole for the pass side and a 1 hole on the drivers side (or you can get 2 2holes)

Run the draglink to the pass side forward hole and run the tierod to the 2 rear holes.

i figured that but does it make it steer easier because its further out from the pivot point?
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Old 10-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
as it twist that is inacuracy in the steering or delay. at least i think it seems that way. i would also think it wears the TRE out faster. if you try to turn the wheel real hard it will break the JAM nuts loose as well and trust me i tighten those suckers down tight.
not to mention,i had the tre boot torn off by the tie rod twisting so i had to run my tie rod like rustys says to
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Old 10-24-2007
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Because you're acting on a longer lever arm, you'll be able to apply more torque to the knuckle and it should give you a slight mechanical advantage over the inner hole. The drawback to this is that your wheels won't turn quite as far or as fast for a given steering input.
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Old 10-24-2007
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good point, reaction/steering speed is slow and i need a good turning radius as it is. i think i will go with the short ballistic arm with the hardware. its 100 bucks.
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Old 10-24-2007
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you are not going to gain any increase in steering with long (2 hole) arms, the outer most hole is the same distance from the balljoint than the stock knuckle hole.

I don't see any problem matching the trac bar with the draglink with a full high steer setup. drop the trac bar mount on the frame side and curve the trac bar over the diff.

Running your drag link to a 'short' arm, or inner hole will cause your knuckles to turn farther than factory specs (assuming you are using some sort of stock steering box) and the axle shaft ears and u-joints to bind causing you to rip off a knuckle. The outer hole is designed for 8" of movement and the inner hole is 6", most steering boxes move 8".

do you see what i'm getting at
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Old 10-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yomie
you are not going to gain any increase in steering with long (2 hole) arms, the outer most hole is the same distance from the balljoint than the stock knuckle hole.

I don't see any problem matching the trac bar with the draglink with a full high steer setup. drop the trac bar mount on the frame side and curve the trac bar over the diff.

Running your drag link to a 'short' arm, or inner hole will cause your knuckles to turn farther than factory specs (assuming you are using some sort of stock steering box) and the axle shaft ears and u-joints to bind causing you to rip off a knuckle. The outer hole is designed for 8" of movement and the inner hole is 6", most steering boxes move 8".

do you see what i'm getting at

its physically impossible to get your panhard to be in the proper position with the two hole system, as you cant mount the panhard off the axle. And steering stops were made adjustable for a reason.
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Old 10-24-2007
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does it really matter if its not the same? i mean i have seen a bunch of setups and if the angle is the same and it should swing in the same arc. if you look at jeeps the pitman arm and the frame mount of the panhard do not line up.

I think I am going to give it a shot, if it fails its just a matter of buying that one TRE with the Drag link hole and a shorter tie rod and drag link.

I was out measuring some stuff and I need to have the longer one otherwise there is no way it will fit, since that is the case I am going to get the Parts Mike ones.

also are there any wheel clearance issues with the longer ones? i would assume not because Yomie mentioned its the same length as stock.
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Old 10-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
And steering stops were made adjustable for a reason.
Alright smart ***, go ahead and mount your draglink on the inner hole of the high steer arm, when your steering box turns a full 8" stroke and the arm will only go 6" see what happens, especially with hydro assist.


Quote:
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
its physically impossible to get your panhard to be in the proper position with the two hole system, as you cant mount the panhard off the axle.
thats why you drop the frame side mount

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Old 10-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yomie
Alright smart ***, go ahead and mount your draglink on the inner hole of the high steer arm, when your steering box turns a full 8" stroke and the arm will only go 6" see what happens, especially with hydro assist.
I have parts mike SINGLE hole arms on my 44, obviously I havent run it yet as my truck is the longest SAS ever. But Out of the 10 or so people who run 44's in my club not one has a double hole arm. they are all single hole. Steering stops were put on axles for a reason. To limit the steering even though the steering box can go farther. not one of those guys has ever had a problem with them.
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