FasTrax Camber/Caster gauges anyone ever user one? - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 07-20-2008
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Ok, so I just found a scan from a Dana manual and it says 80 ft-lbs for the lower BJ, 50 ft-lbs for the sleeve, then 100 ft-lbs for the upper BJ.

Here is the scan http://www.geocities.com/lars915/Ima...int2resize.jpg and I'm still waiting on my friend to check all data for me, he should be able to get to it tomorrow or tuesday. I'm waiting on these values myself because that is my next step to putting my axle together.
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  #27  
Old 07-20-2008
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thanks Jason, this makes the most sense. i could not for the life of me figure out why they made different degrees shims, but now that you say they should be tq'd it makes perfect sense.

now if only my diff seals would get here i can fit this issue correctly.
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  #28  
Old 07-21-2008
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my upper balljoin nut is set to like 10lbs. anything more then that and its binding pretty bad and giving me memory steer. maybe if i tighten the sleve more it will help but that is going to through my camber off.

zach when i did my alignment by eye when i got home. it was in the green (good) when i set it on the rack. i put a level on the outside edge of my rim to set the camber angle.
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  #29  
Old 07-21-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangererv View Post
my upper balljoin nut is set to like 10lbs. anything more then that and its binding pretty bad and giving me memory steer. maybe if i tighten the sleve more it will help but that is going to through my camber off.

zach when i did my alignment by eye when i got home. it was in the green (good) when i set it on the rack. i put a level on the outside edge of my rim to set the camber angle.
i think if you tighten the sleeve correctly it will be exactly 0, because you have 0 degree sleeves. then you can tighten that nut as tight as possible. without memory steer.

this is your memory steer issue, the sleeve is not tight...
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  #30  
Old 07-21-2008
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Zach, I just got a pair of seals from advanced auto and they had them in stock and they are better seals than the ones I ordered online. It's nice to be able to pick up a 5 dollar part and have it be in stock for something from 1974...

I'll still let you know what my friend comes up with from alldata on the balljoints though. I know one common number I have been seeing is that there should be about 25 pounds of pull on the knuckle to get it to move once it's all torqued. So if you hook a fish scale to the tie rod hole it should take about 25 pounds on the scale to keep the knuckle moving... The knuckles are not supposed to be loose, thats for sure, 25 pounds is a pretty good pull.
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  #31  
Old 07-21-2008
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lol figures. mine finally got shipped today. they had the spanner tool on backorder so they never shipped it. i told them to cancel the wrench, ill get one local.

i stopped at napa and they didnt have it so i figured no one had the seal. We are getting an O'riley's local tho
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  #32  
Old 07-21-2008
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zach thoes spanner sockets from bco graveyard are the cheapest ive seen them. napa and auto store are more expensive.

i guess im gonna have to tear the top apart again and do it right. if the camber is off ill just deal with it untill i get a offset degree one.

btw the correct torque specs are 110-140 for the top bj and 100 for the lower. not sure on the sleeve.
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  #33  
Old 07-21-2008
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yeah well they are out for a while, so i need to buy one local i guess. i want this fixed right, cant wait to see if it drives different
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  #34  
Old 07-21-2008
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lol i hear you there. i want to loosen everything and re due it to see if it corrects everything
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  #35  
Old 07-22-2008
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I just pressed my balljoints in yesterday, the dana/spicer set from broncograveyard and then noticed that they are non-greasable, oops. I figure I'll pump em as full of grease as i can before hand and then just run em till they die. Changeing them on the setup I'm using will actually be pretty easy.
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  #36  
Old 07-22-2008
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^^ ya i got the same ones from them. did urs feel like they were very loose when you tryed to move the ball socket? mine did which i didnt like but i couldnt get any up and down play out of them
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  #37  
Old 07-23-2008
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well now i cant find that tool for the shim, going to look some more tonight someone local has to have one.
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  #38  
Old 07-23-2008
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The BJs move easy but theyre smooth and tight so I'm not too worried about them, and afterall they are dana/spicer parts...

For the sleeve socket good luck, parts stores can be tough to find really specific tools like that. If you have some snap-on or cornwell or mac trucks driving around they should all have a version of the tool. Maybe talk to a few garages and and ask when the snap-on guy stops by and just plan to be there and buy one off him.
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  #39  
Old 07-24-2008
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Jason I found a place online that had a warehouse local, so i went and picked it up.

OTC-7080 is the part number

Ford PN. T71T-3010-G

Also the place i bought it.
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=316
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  #40  
Old 07-24-2008
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thats good, I just torqued up one of my knuckles using the specs from that dana article and it seems good. I set the lower BJ nut to 80 ft-lbs, then spun the sleeve to 45 ft-lbs and when you do that the knuckle gets real tight, but then I cranked the upper BJ nut to the 100 ft-lbs and it moves smooth as butter now so I would suggest going right around those numbers with the sleeve being between 40 and 50 ft-lbs. Unfortunately it started raining so I had to close the door to the shed which makes it really hot so I didnt do the other knuckle yet, I guess I'll get to that and then my nice 4340 shafts tomorrow.
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  #41  
Old 07-24-2008
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ha funny thing i did one side today as well. and your right what a difference for me! wow, turns so much smoother now.

i did 120 on the lower, 40 on the sleeve and 120 on the upper. i couldnt remember the exact numbers you mentioned lol. but those worked as well
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