Hi All,
I'm about to do an overhaul on my '99 4.0 XLT 4WD. I was specifically thinking:

• Front Shock Absorbers, (already picked up a set of Bilsteins)
• Upper Control Arm
• Lower Control Arm
• Stabilizer Bar Links
• Stabilizer Bar Bushings
• Inner Tie-Rod
• Outer Tie Rod

I've had good success with MOOG in the past and was hoping to go that route, but there seems like a million options for each product. I know the 4WD system uses a torsion spring so that helps with some results, but there are still so many options. Head keeps spinning when I sit down to get an order together. 27mm or 29mm strut bar? What!?



Does anyone know what I should be looking for when ordering this stuff? For instance, when selecting an upper control arm, is there a reason I'd want an adjustable one if my intention is to just restore the stock ride? And is there a real benefit of changing the lower control arms or just do the ball joint? I'm totally green on this and any insight is greatly appreciated!

 

I don't know exactly but stick to Moog and I believe you have to buy the upper and lower control arms to get the Ball Joints.

 

Thanks! And it looks like Moog's "R" prefix means economy.

 

I have the same model, except for engine. The upper control arm and balljoint are one unit. You can't replace just the balljoint. The left side has a typical control arm. The right side is adjustable (I don't know why). I think someone makes aftermarket control arms with replaceable balljoints, maybe moog. The lower balljoint can be replaced. It ain't easy. There isn't enough space for the press adapter to sit flat against the control arm. So its very difficult to keep the balljoint straight going out or in. I would not attempt to replace the lower control arm myself. Good luck.

 

Some would also install new camber bolts depending if you will lift your rig in the future or even now.

I would recommend graphite-impregnated poly bushings instead of the stock rubber. Polyurethane doesn't compress like rubber, so your components will stay in line better. Regular poly bushings will squeak-squeak and applying generous amounts of lithium grease can help, but I'd pay the few extra bux on graphite.

They have whole kits that will also include swaybar links and bushings for it. I'll be doing this soon once I get all the pieces together.

A weekend and a few friends and a few 12-packs...good stuff.

 

Here is one of the Chamber Bolt Kits, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/IEC-29000/

Also, think twice on Poly bushings in the front end... the are more solid yes and I do like the idea of the Graphite for better lube, but they do transfer more vibrations, may even be a worse ride.

I alway stick to rubber bushings and use a good Rubber Lubricant on them when installing and when changing the oil/Grease Job.

Also, get the Ball Joints with grease fittings... tends to extend the life of the ball points, that is IF you grease them.

Ltr

 

Legit fear.

In my truck’s youth, the rubber wore out within 9 months of me driving it off the lot. The dealer replaced them FOC, and they wore out again 1.5 years later.

Must be my driving 😉

The way it was explained to me is that on turns and constant use, the rubber compresses, then decompresses so frequently, it makes the rubber lose its “bounce-back” properties and even deforms and oozes out the sides.

It was probably an Energy Suspension rep with that story 😜

I replaced them myself with the poly bushings and the wear stopped immediately. I still sport those same ones on my control arms 14+ years later. 👍🏻

As for vibration, possible noise or a worse ride, my springs and shocks soak up any noticeable imperfections. It seems the same in a straight line as new rubber IMO, but feels more solid in turns.

To be fair, the infrastructure in Orange County SoCal seems OK. They maintain the streets pretty well, so a smoother ride.

I’m sold on them. I’ll be replacing them again with new ones when I do my lift later 🤘🏻

 

Thanks for the advice all - much appreciated! I didn't tear into the suspension, (still finalizing the rear), but I'm going to move forward with some non-Type R Moog supplies. I'm not anti-everything else, but for the price and reputation, why not? What I did notice is that most of the bushings come as straight rubber except the strut bar bushings. Apparently they shouldn't be greased or anything but I'm almost anticipating some sort of noise. We'll see i guess.

One hiccup though. My truck uses the torsion bar system. I've seen 3 basic ways to remove them: Special Tool/2 Jaw Puller, Bottle Jack, and Dropping the Lower Control Arm. Obviously I'm aiming to drop the LCA and replace that, but is loosening/dropping that really going to remove all the slack out of the torsion bar and allow me to remove that? And if so, what about reinstalling? I feel like this is something that might "click" once I get under there and do it, but I've never messed with any sort of torsion stuff before.

 

One more thing, have you have you considered Coil-Overs for the front end.
I have a 4x and replaced the T-Bars with the Coil-over Setup sol don the site years back.
Since the conversion the truck handling is up 50% maybe more, cornering feel tight.
I have had the Shocks rebuilt once, about two years ago, and in another three years I will have them looked at just to be sure.
Also, you gain space under the truck.

 

Honestly, I didn't even think about that before. I guess I wouldn't be opposed to it, but I just picked up a bunch of stuff that'll keep it at stock height - including wheels, tires, and struts. Just curious though: does the conversion definitely require welding?

 

Yea, it does require welding of of supports for the Spring Towers and the lower Mounting Brackets, I believe it was worth it, my wife always ask me if I think I am driving a Sports Car, when she is with me in the truck !

Extra money yes, the upper and lower control arms remained the same !

The truck looks good without the T-Bars under her !

 

Late reply, but me likie how that sounds


I think servicing of some of those is easier with the right tools, too. Depending on your choice of damper, they can be rebuildable, so saves some munny down the road.

Adjustability, too. You can increase your preload with a turn of a lockring on some. Even dual-stage spring setups so you can have a cushy road drive, then secondary springs help with any "harshier" conditions.

I just made up a word!

 

I think the Ranger Front Shocks in a Coil-Over set up are too short to even consider a dual spring setup but it is a good idea.

New words are always good !

Almost two years ago now, I think, I had the front shocks in my truck rebuilt... made a big difference, and was told to have them checked every three or so years... !