I know my tires are running some where between 27 and 30 psi. I had to fill them up because the shop underfills them just a little bit.
@RonD, are you talking about the shocks, the tires, or both?
Little more info:
My dad bought the shocks, I have no clue where the heck he got them from. I know they aren't performance and where more solid than the originals.

 

Shocks can make the ride stiff or bouncy but not wobbly

 

Thought so. I'll rotate my tires, see what that does.

One other thing, if bearing grease got on the rotors from replacing the bearings, and the brakes burned the grease off, could the heat cause the warping?

 

Grease will get on the pads which is not great, it will reduce stopping power and smell for awhile
But no it won't warp the rotors

Warped rotors usually happen from prolonged braking or pulling heavier loads all the time
I.e.going down long grades(hills) and riding the brakes vs down shifting gears and letting engine keep speed down
When hauling a load brakes, of course, have to work harder so rotors get hotter

In either situation its best to use the brakes harder than need and then foot off the pedal so they can cool down while still moving(air flow) then brake again
Constant braking causes warping because rotors can't cool down between pedal presses

Stuck caliper can also cause a warped rotor on one side, but vehicle would be pulling to one side all the time so you would notice that long before a rotor was warped

 

The Calipers are the originals, they did get stuck at one point and it reduced my braking by a noticeable amount. I ended up greasing them with permatex break parts lubricant. But it took me about 2000 miles to get around to it.