1995 - 2006 FORD RANGER,EXPLORER,EDGE,SPORT TRAC **DROP ARM-07 *WITH TORSION BAR ONLY
Body Type: PAIR $39.00
SKU#: KEY-FR98DROP


Those are VERY simular to the ones I made. They will probably work. You WILL want to get new torsion bars 1 step above what you presently have ( about 130$ for the pair at a dealership ).

 

Weather you flip the keys or not wont matter. When you lower the front, the control arms nolonger point downwars with the pins on the balljoints pointing vertically. The balljoints sit somewhat ' cocked ' in their sockets. They loose travel as well. You can EASILY bottem them out.

The Factory bumpstops can be replaced with ' pancake ' type stops ( 5$/pair at pepboys ).

The reason I mentioned the stiffer bars was to prevent more of the upward travel on the initial impact with potholes and such.

 

edge with 4/5 drop


info on how to get it done right http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for...highlight=edge

 

yeah you can find some good info on the other side of the pond sometimes.

 

not all people want airride. if he decides not too he might as well do it completely correct

 

Not really Mark..

"Still haven't found a correct solution for the ball joint. Im open for suggestions...so far i've come up with raising the control arm. Fab new control arms. Convert to a Uni-ball system."

Still going to have balljoint issues.

I kinda snuck around it myself :) Let everyone in non something I did.

The Upper control arms have built in balljoints. Moog 4x4 arms have a REMOVABLE/SERVICABLE Balljoint. I bought a pair of Moog Arms and had a friend with a hydraulic press put a pair of slight bends in them. This changer the angle of the balljoint into the top of the spindle to correct SOME of the problem.

I have ScottyG's old XLT front end here and 4 pairs of old upper control arms/balljoints ( Yep, I go through a LOT of them ). I'm thinking the upper arms could be " Z'ed " and gussetted on the sides for strength.

I'm on the fence right now as I plan on adding about 200lbs to the front of my truck this spring ( and 2 more sylinders ).

A M2 suspension would be GREAT, but would require the removal of the engine crossmember and theres still some issues with ground clearence. For the amount of modification needed, it would be easier to buy Tubing, Use my bender and Mig and just make a whole new front frame ( or use the one I already failed at building/finish it ) .

The second is to correct whats there for proper suspension travel.

Sure, that guys truck looks nice, But looks are secondary for me. I like to get heavy on the gas and take turns sideways and such. 2-3 good hits on a speedbump doing 40+ and that guys truck is going off-road without a lift kit :) .

The BEST way to do a drop.. Spindles. Nobody makes them tho. If I could get ahold of a set of 2wd edge spindles ( I dunno if XLT spindles are the same thing? ), I dont think it would be ' too hard ' to have a set of spindles made. Would cost a bunch for a local fab shop, but it would correct a lot of the problems everyone thus far ( thats modified the stock suspension ) has had.

The owner recognized the problem as well. "The shock mounts have been welded in, but like you said, it's the balljoints. I worry about them too. ".

Lower balljoints are 10$ on Ebay, but the uppers are 50-130$ on average ( 35$each if you have moog arms ). It can become expensive and will make your truck a ' high maintenence ' wench like a babe from the 80's with the big hair .