4-link resources
#1
#2
Look on pirate.. there is a ton of good info there, just be careful asking any questions. Off the top of my head, I remember this thread explaining link setups pretty thoroughly http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hlight=dummies
Im building a rear triangulated 4 link for my ZJ right now, a little different, but same concept. Let me know if you have any specific questions
Im building a rear triangulated 4 link for my ZJ right now, a little different, but same concept. Let me know if you have any specific questions
#5
Probably for the front... atleast at first. I'm thinking I might 4 link and solid axle swap a d30 from a new wrangler (TJ I think? the one with coils) instead of going for the RCD like I initially planned. It'd be a long way off, but I want to learn about it if nothing else. If the front works out well and I get a good grasp on it, then I might 4-link the rear too!
#6
http://www.xtreme4x4tv.com/news.aspx?iid=5023
Download link doesn't work, but get at me if you want it, I have it saved here...
Download link doesn't work, but get at me if you want it, I have it saved here...
#8
Well a 4 link front is a little different than a 4 link rear. You have to make sure to get enough triangulation to control lateral movement of the axle since you wont be running a tracbar Im guessing...you also need to watch your oilpan clearance on some applications.
Your best bet for an axle would be an hp30 out of an XJ. slightly stronger than a low pinion 30 and already setup for coils. You would have to figure out some kind of truss system for the front for your upper mounts though
Your best bet for an axle would be an hp30 out of an XJ. slightly stronger than a low pinion 30 and already setup for coils. You would have to figure out some kind of truss system for the front for your upper mounts though
#9
XJ is a cherokee right? I realized the front was different about halfway through that pirate thread. Are there other alternatives where I could run coils in the front without a 4-link? I figured if you're gonna do it, might as well do it right... Do you have any pictures of how a 4-link front might be set up to clear the oil pan and such?
#10
#11
#12
#14
check out rubicon express.
the axle mounts on a XJ are the same as a TJ, so you can use long arms for a TJ.
TJ isnt a HP reverse cut like the XJ has.
when getting an axle make sure you dont have the axle disconnect. its a sign of even more weekness. also known as vacuum disconnect, its seperates the long side axle tube/shaft into 2 peices
the best axle would be a 97+ XJ had the larger axle shaft ends with x297 U-joints. These are much stronger.
i hope you know what your getting into. lol
the axle mounts on a XJ are the same as a TJ, so you can use long arms for a TJ.
TJ isnt a HP reverse cut like the XJ has.
when getting an axle make sure you dont have the axle disconnect. its a sign of even more weekness. also known as vacuum disconnect, its seperates the long side axle tube/shaft into 2 peices
the best axle would be a 97+ XJ had the larger axle shaft ends with x297 U-joints. These are much stronger.
i hope you know what your getting into. lol
#15
The easiest front setup is a radius arm, two long lowers and two short uppers coming off of the lowers. This way you only have to make your lower mounts on the frame side, and you can run radius arms on stock XJ/ZJ/TJ bracketry on any d30.
Not the best pic, but this is a 4 link rear and a radius arm front... claytons is by far the best long arm available for unibody jeeps, I would look hard at this design, its a great setup
Not the best pic, but this is a 4 link rear and a radius arm front... claytons is by far the best long arm available for unibody jeeps, I would look hard at this design, its a great setup
#16
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Yup get the Clayton radius arms with some 4" xj coils, that sound right jonathon on the springs?
For the rear you have to re-locate the gas tank, its completely in the way if you want to run a link suspension. I was thinkin about linking my rear, but decided not to b/c I didn't want to move the tank yet.
Kyle you should tow that thing to my house, and let me and jonathon build it.
EDIT: Jonathon, I still might link my rear, I probably have to move my gas tank for the doubler, and If I do, I'll get a fuel cell in the bed and I might as well run links, that way I can get some fawking flex in the rear. I already have 4 tabs, and we could build a truss with it on the truck.
For the rear you have to re-locate the gas tank, its completely in the way if you want to run a link suspension. I was thinkin about linking my rear, but decided not to b/c I didn't want to move the tank yet.
Kyle you should tow that thing to my house, and let me and jonathon build it.
EDIT: Jonathon, I still might link my rear, I probably have to move my gas tank for the doubler, and If I do, I'll get a fuel cell in the bed and I might as well run links, that way I can get some fawking flex in the rear. I already have 4 tabs, and we could build a truss with it on the truck.
#17
Haha Jey this is way way down the line plans for my current truck (the Level II). Just researching now to see what all is involved. I'd really like to get a good basic general understanding of suspension and links and such but it's hard because everything I find is either too advanced for me yet or it's application-specific.
#19
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Thats what EVERYONE says kyle. Then they break **** all the time. and then they want to put bigger tires.
Theres nothing wrong with a waggy 44. You can run links on it as well. Just have to build a truss b/c you don't want to weld any tabs onto the chunk (cast).
Trust me. EVERYONE says they only need a 30 and will never go bigger, and they break it and want to go bigger. It never fails.
Would you take a 3.0 over a 4.0, because you would never "need" the power? hell no.
Theres nothing wrong with a waggy 44. You can run links on it as well. Just have to build a truss b/c you don't want to weld any tabs onto the chunk (cast).
Trust me. EVERYONE says they only need a 30 and will never go bigger, and they break it and want to go bigger. It never fails.
Would you take a 3.0 over a 4.0, because you would never "need" the power? hell no.
#21
the 30 would already be set up for coils and would probably be easier to find and cheaper. I totally understand where you're coming from tho Jey! Sadly there aren't any wild places like Tellico to go rock crawling around here.
If that were the case though I'd be scrounging around for a 5.0 or a 350 or something though!
If that were the case though I'd be scrounging around for a 5.0 or a 350 or something though!
#22
Well its pretty obvious that Im not the biggest d30 fan ever if you've read any of my other posts, but in your situation I'd say its the best bet, make sure you find an hp30 at least though. Other than that, radius arms will bolt on to that axle, figure out your frame mounts, steering and your set