Issues with balljoint clunking noises... HELP! =( - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 10-21-2008
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Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
"nothing installed correctly". Exactly what wasn't installed correctly?


First time i read that, I thought the following...'so, this entire time you've been lifted, the shop installed nothing right?'


Secondly, if stuff wasn't installed correctly, WHY didn't the alignment shop catch it? WHY did they try and 'make it work' with the welding? That's one shady *** alignment shop if you ask me. In all honesty, there really is no wrong way to install balljoints...they pop in, retaining rings go on, done. Same with the tie rods and uca's. What exactly wasn't right? The liftkit or the joint install?
I've gone almost 100k miles on this lift and never had any issues until things got swapped out. Half the blame is on me and half on the person that did the work. Everyone on here is telling me to run back to Alon and have him fix it for free, no big deal. Truck runs for the most part and it is a ford. If it don't squeak or pop it aint custom, right?
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  #27  
Old 10-21-2008
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Originally Posted by Prerunner-Ranger View Post
Let me re-phrase this, as I'm not putting the full blame on Alon. Alignment shops are all the same and don't have any idea how to find issues on lifted vehicles; I should of went to an actual fab shop in the first place to get it done right; my fault. When Alon went to the alignment shop by his house they gave him attitude right off the bat. Then I sent my gf back to the same shop the next day and they again gave her attitude about it and wouldn't refund the money; should of just went elsewhere.

Where the upper arm meets the spindle was loose on both sides, and the bolt was inserted in the wrong direction. The cams were put in and torqued down but the way they were bolted in was making the camber maxxed out. It was loosened and re-adjusted and now the tire sits straight again and isn't maxxed out. Tie rod ends were fine and tight so no worries there. And my shocks seem to be blown so that's my issue not Alon's; I have ordered new shocks for it. There was no grease in the actual upper balljoints, it just seemed that grease was stuffed into the top of the spindle itself. Wheel bearings were loose as well for some reason.

I'm not trippin too hard on it, money is money and it comes and goes. I don't know auto-mechanics enough myself to do it so that's another issue on my part. I do appreciate you taking the time to do everything though Alon as my spark plugs and wires are kickin ***.

Other then that it's just another day driving a ford, fix or repairing daily but I still love the truck. I owe 9k on her and just want her to run good. It's just another day in paradise, I just hope Obama don't get elected next to ruin the world.
I'm surprised that bolt would come loose, that was tightened very well and it was checked by the guy that helped me, after I did it. also, the bolt can go in either way, it doesnt matter.

Why would I stuff grease into the top of the spindle? I filled all ball joints until i felt the boot fill up with grease, so I am not sure what the issue is there.

You dont need new shocks if yours are indeed blown, you just need to get them rebuilt. If your buddy at the "fab shop" is telling you that you need new shocks, you are wasting $$$$$$. Kings are rebuildable and if he is a reputable, reliable fab shop, he should be able to rebuilt them easily.

If the wheel bearings were loose... then that is from whoever did the lift, as I didnt even touch those, I left that alone on the spindle. I sure hope your buddy didnt just tighten the nut on the bearings, because there is a certain way to tighten and keep those bearings. If it is too tight you will kill your bearings.

I will admit when something is done wrong, but I have little faith in the guys you are taking it to, between the welding of the balljoint (terrible idea) and someone telling you that you need new kings instead of rebuilding them.

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  #28  
Old 10-21-2008
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Here come the ' Honesty ', of which you can call it ' hate '..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prerunner-Ranger View Post
Let me re-phrase this, as I'm not putting the full blame on Alon. Alignment shops are all the same and don't have any idea how to find issues on lifted vehicles; I should of went to an actual fab shop in the first place to get it done right; my fault. When Alon went to the alignment shop by his house they gave him attitude right off the bat. Then I sent my gf back to the same shop the next day and they again gave her attitude about it and wouldn't refund the money; should of just went elsewhere.
Correct.

Quote:
Where the upper arm meets the spindle was loose on both sides, and the bolt was inserted in the wrong direction.
Wrong direction? ROFLMAO! Its a simple pinch bolt. So long as the bolt is through the spindle and through the detent/sleeve of the upper balljoint, holding it in.. thats all that matters. Theres no ' correct ' or ' wrong ' way of having that.

Quote:
The cams were put in and torqued down but the way they were bolted in was making the camber maxxed out. It was loosened and re-adjusted and now the tire sits straight again and isn't maxxed out. Tie rod ends were fine and tight so no worries there. And my shocks seem to be blown so that's my issue not Alon's; I have ordered new shocks for it. There was no grease in the actual upper balljoints, it just seemed that grease was stuffed into the top of the spindle itself.
If I remember correctly, a while back you stated you were going with Moog upper balljoints? If so, they SHOULD have a serviceable grease fitting on them. Give it a few pumps with a gun. So long as the boot expands a bit on bottom, its fine.

As for that weld job on your LCA. NOT a good idea at all. Not even as a ' temporary fix '. Hit a boneyard and pull one. The sooner the better.

I've ripped a spindle completely off my truck before and the lower arm was fine. I can't imagine how damage as your displaying happened without the balljoint itself coming out of its socket and not loosing the spindle first.
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2008
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Originally Posted by Alon View Post
If the wheel bearings were loose... then that is from whoever did the lift, as I didnt even touch those, I left that alone on the spindle. I sure hope your buddy didnt just tighten the nut on the bearings, because there is a certain way to tighten and keep those bearings. If it is too tight you will kill your bearings.
And if they are too tight...spindle snappage from the bearings getting seized would happen. I know this....as it happend to me just before i got onto the highway for my daily 75mph run. Not my ranger...my chevy.
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  #30  
Old 10-21-2008
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Originally Posted by Alon View Post
I'm surprised that bolt would come loose, that was tightened very well and it was checked by the guy that helped me, after I did it. also, the bolt can go in either way, it doesnt matter.

Why would I stuff grease into the top of the spindle? I filled all ball joints until i felt the boot fill up with grease, so I am not sure what the issue is there.

You dont need new shocks if yours are indeed blown, you just need to get them rebuilt. If your buddy at the "fab shop" is telling you that you need new shocks, you are wasting $$$$$$. Kings are rebuildable and if he is a reputable, reliable fab shop, he should be able to rebuilt them easily.

If the wheel bearings were loose... then that is from whoever did the lift, as I didnt even touch those, I left that alone on the spindle. I sure hope your buddy didnt just tighten the nut on the bearings, because there is a certain way to tighten and keep those bearings. If it is too tight you will kill your bearings.

I will admit when something is done wrong, but I have little faith in the guys you are taking it to, between the welding of the balljoint (terrible idea) and someone telling you that you need new kings instead of rebuilding them.

I'm just gonna sell the kings on race-dezert and put some bilsteins on. I know they can be rebuilt but I'll just go with some new ones. I'm the 3rd owner of these kings and they've been rebuilt twice. Just going to go with something new since shocks take so much abuse. Once I sell the kings it will cover my new shocks anyway.

The guy that I'm taking the truck to now didn't do the weld he is just agreeing with all of you by saying it was a bad idea. He told me to buy a new ball joint and we will grind the old one off and replace it. The alignment shop by my house did the weld...

Last edited by Prerunner-Ranger; 10-21-2008 at 01:25 PM.
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  #31  
Old 10-21-2008
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Originally Posted by D. View Post
Wrong direction? ROFLMAO! Its a simple pinch bolt. So long as the bolt is through the spindle and through the detent/sleeve of the upper balljoint, holding it in.. thats all that matters. Theres no ' correct ' or ' wrong ' way of having that.



As for that weld job on your LCA. NOT a good idea at all. Not even as a ' temporary fix '. Hit a boneyard and pull one. The sooner the better.
It's just one of those **** mechanic things. Should it jar loose while offroading it would be at an angle where it wouldn't shoot out of the spindle.

The weld job on my LCA isn't great, I never said it was. All I was trying to do was get the damn thing fixed and I don't have the expertise to do it myself. My expertise lies in computers and the IT field and it seems everywhere I go people just tell me their way is better. If anything I'll have to bite the bullet and die grind the damn weld off and buy another brand new lower ball joint to place in there. The C-clip and everything was showing on it and since they welded it now the C-clip completely broke off and there isn't one there anymore.

Regardless of the fact, Alon did save me a lot of money if I were to go elsewhere to do everything he did and I appreciate that. Thanks bro.
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  #32  
Old 10-21-2008
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Regardless of the fact, Alon did save me a lot of money
He saved me a bunch of money on my car insurance.
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  #33  
Old 10-21-2008
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He saved me a bunch of money on my car insurance.
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  #34  
Old 10-21-2008
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Glad to see the problem was found... though it may or may not have been resolved yet?
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  #35  
Old 10-21-2008
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Glad to see the problem was found... though it may or may not have been resolved yet?
Not really resolved yet as I now have a weld on my balljoint and no clip, and blown shocks. Other then that it seems okay.

Ahhhhh sigh.
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  #36  
Old 10-21-2008
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Could be worse. When I had my drop kit installed on my 98 the mechanic, who's SUPPOSED to be a family friend, owed me about 8 hours of labor for me helping him move. It was his idea. So I take my truck and the drop to him. Took like 3 weeks to get it installed, then he wanted to charge 450$, when it took him those 8 hours that he owed me. THEN I wondered why my front sway bar links were so FCKED up looking, I found out he put the sway bar on upside down/backwards, which caused really harsh angles for the sway bar end links. Installing that kit doesnt even involve removing the sway bar!!!

THEN when I went to remove the kit (learned my lesson the first time), I found out that half of my control arm bolts were messed up because he put them in wrong. This guy is certified to.

The kit was not as complex as I had thought, I SHOULD have done it myself from the get-go. I learned my lesson though... he half assed it. And that wasnt the first time he tried to charge me for work he owed me. The first time was when the oil pump on my 2000 4.0 OHV died, and he said if I helped him around the shop for a few days in my spare time, that he'd let me use his lift and tools, and walk me through changing the oil pump. We get it done, and he types up a bill for like 265$ or something stupid like that.... SO now I just call him up when I need ANY tool, and tell him when I'm coming to borrow it. I think he has a clue that he isnt touching anything of mine. BUt I will go pick up his balljoint press, etc, whenever I want, free of charge. He's hassled me enough.

I took my truck to walmart to have my new 31's mounted only to witness them try to teach one of their "techs" how to drive standard! I could seem them explaining to him how to work the clutch, to pull the truck up on the lift!

I do work myself now. There are VERY FEW people I would allow to work on my vehicles, very few people I trust anymore.
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  #37  
Old 10-21-2008
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For sure freddie...

I just went ahead and bit the bullet and ordered 2 brand new lower control arms w/ ball joints & bushings to get rid of this rigged weld job. I'll then get new mounts fabbed for the new shocks and that should fix everything right up.
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  #38  
Old 10-21-2008
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I just noticed they have lca's on ebay for $120 or so. How much are new ones?
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  #39  
Old 10-21-2008
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I paid on Rockauto 71.99 for each side. That includes Ball joints and bushings + $50 shipping - 5% discount that I had emailed to me. Total came out to about $185.

Part#'s:

SPICER 5071143 Control Arm $ 71.99 $ 0.00 1 $ 71.99
SPICER 5071144 Control Arm $ 71.99 $ 0.00 1 $ 71.99

*big sigh of relief*
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  #40  
Old 10-21-2008
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Damn...much better then ebay.

I hear ya on the sigh of relief.
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  #41  
Old 10-21-2008
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Rockauto is definitely the ****. I just want my truck running good again.

I think we can all relate to that.
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