35's with a 3in BL?
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What truck do you have? 4x2? 4x4? XLT? Edge? It makes a difference.
Do you not wheel at all? Because if you don't, you're giving up a bit with 35's for street driving. I know because I'm on them. If you do it well, it's not so bad -- but the truck is not going to handle like it did, your mileage will go down, and if you don't regear (I went to 4.56 ratio gears) you'll be VERY slow.
If you have a manual with a 3.73 or 3.55 rear you will almost definitely regret the 35's every time you start up a hill, lol.
Do you not wheel at all? Because if you don't, you're giving up a bit with 35's for street driving. I know because I'm on them. If you do it well, it's not so bad -- but the truck is not going to handle like it did, your mileage will go down, and if you don't regear (I went to 4.56 ratio gears) you'll be VERY slow.
If you have a manual with a 3.73 or 3.55 rear you will almost definitely regret the 35's every time you start up a hill, lol.
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I had a B/L, fiberglass fenders, trimmed rear fenders, 3" blocks replacing factory blocks, cranked t-bars, and i fit 35's and i didn't come close to rubbing anywhere. Don't listen to anyone, put 35"s on it, if you don't you'll wish you had...EDIT: The way it's setup in the pictures, 37's would have fit without rubbing anywhere...i had an extra set i sold but test fitted. For a street truck, i would get fiberglass front AND rear, a prerunner type bumper (to get rid of factory bumper and valance) and a 3" body and 35's will not rub and it will look bad ***. When i finish my SAS i will put fiberglass on the bed, depending how banged up my factory bedsides get at tellico after the swap.
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Originally Posted by n3elz
Once you're on 35's, you won't want to go back, I can tell you that.
tbar cranks are hard on CV's in the front though. I wouldn't do it on a 4x4 if you're going to hit it hard in 4 wheel drive.
tbar cranks are hard on CV's in the front though. I wouldn't do it on a 4x4 if you're going to hit it hard in 4 wheel drive.
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CjRanger99
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05-26-2005 12:36 AM