ok so i am doing a sas and i already got a good deal and picked up a dana 44 from a 79 F250 and it has all been rebuilt and ready to go now were do i start.. i kinda know what has to happen and i have resurched it quite a bit but i have some questions
i think i should go with lifted TJ coils (as they give nice ride) and shocks aposed to leaf springs so i am going to go with that rout.

now i am all good with that and for steering from what i understand i have to fab up a bar that goes from the drop pitman arm to the... steering bar? (name of it has compleatly left my mind at the moment) so that the wheels will turn
now for mounting the axle what do i do for that how dose the axle mount the the frame not with the stock radius arms i am pritty sure. ... what do i do with that ??

REAR
now for teh rear i want the bolt parrturn to line up the same so i can swap tires if need be now would a dana 60 and a chevy 14 bolt both have 8 bolt patturns (im guesing that 14 bolt is not realy on the wheel yet on the diff cover??)
and i am going to go with leafs from a bigger truck to keep the lift i have if not a little bigger, so for that i asume i just have to weld the leave mounts to teh frame in a differant place that will work and mount the axle to the leafs

please help me out i am new to working on trucks and this is my first realy big project besides putting on a lift kit, i think this may be a bit harded ... maybe just a bit!

 

do a lot of research before you start.......

why you want to do a SAS already, you just put on the Superlift

do a search on TRS ( www.therangerstation.com )....there is a lot of tech advice on SAS......

 

cuz when i flipped my truck i need axle work and also i need to re gear it anyways ... it will be lmost teh same price as new axles well older but beefyer axles

 

That f250 axle is a great start. Prolly the best D44 to use for the sas as it gives you the most options, for suspension. That axle is leaf sprung so youll need to cut off the perches, so you can mount links or radius arms. companies like bronco graveyard and wildhorse4x4 make weld on C wedges that allow you to run radius arms on that axle.

 

can i use my stock radius arms or will i need new ones? the perches have been cut off and have shock mounts but they were on an s10 blazer and i think ill need to weld them in a diff spot, correct? and as for suspention, coilovers, shocks and springs, waht about like bilstine ???

 

first things first, what suspension are you going to use? That will help us determine what you want to go with as far as springs and such.

 

anything wrong with your Superlift? wanna sell it?

 

well thats why i am here i dont want to use leafs.. i was thinking coilovers or jsut springs and shocks. somone told me by changing my shock boots a bit i could use lifted TJ coils and that would be good. as for shocks i have no clue i dont want to blow apart the bank on this but i understand it will cost money.

besides springs, shocks, radius arms, what all do i need.?

as for if i want to do a 4 link or anything eles i have NO CLUE .. what are the other options and what if a 4 link ??

sure ill sell the super lift

 

Some Pro-Comp shocks ought to treat you nicely. Get the 5000s or 9000s because they're a little stiffer.

Is your axle right now a 5 lug or 8 lug? If it's 5 lug, look for a Ford 9" out of a similar year F150, otherwise a D60 should treat you nicely and will have the 8 lug pattern as well. D60 rears are a dime a dozen so you should have no problem finding or affording either of those axles.

 

you mean change your shock mount location and you can run TJ coils.....coils are by far better than leafs in the front.........i would stick with the radius arms if i were you....notta lot of room upfront to do a 4 link.....you could do a 3 link, but in all essence that is what radius arms are......

since you are 4wd, if you have the radius arm mounts, then all you need is a welder and some steel to build a new drop brackets for the factory radius arm brackets or to build complete new brackets all together........

you also will need a trac bar, trac bar mount, and a custom steering setup....

as far as shocks, GET IT SITTING ON ITS ONE WEIGHT BEFORE ORDERING SHOCKS!!!!! that way you can get acutal lengths on its weight instead of trying to guess and ordering the wrong shocks.......

what do you want for the Superlift?

 

it is out of a F-250, it is an 8 lug....unless it has been converted with weaker parts off a 5 lug 44...

 

there are more then one style of 3 link, not all are similar to radius arms.

 

Oh ok I missed that. I thought he said 150, so I was curious why he wanted to get an 8 lug axle to match. I may be converting my 1/2 ton D44 to 8 lug also depending on how well the 12 bolt holds up.

 

yes it is 8 lug and i will stick to the radius arm set up, this is teh axle i bought



so i think all i need is the bar going from drop pitman arm to the bar on teh front of the axle that turns the wheels

is a chev 14 bolt axle good and will the bolt patturn be the same

for the super lift well will i need any of the parts on my truck after the SAS that came with the kit??
how much is a good price it was on my truck for all of about.. maybe 9 months

 

a 14 Bolt is a good axle, but not near as strong as a Dana 60......the only way the lug pattern for the rear will be the same is if you get a Dana 60 out of a Ford F-250 or F-350 up to '97.......after '97 they went to a metric bolt pattern........

what all is included with the Superlift on your truck?
-extended radius arms?
-brackets?
-coils?

NO you will not use anything off your current lift on the SAS...

 

as for ordering parts lets ay shocks do i order shocks for a 97 ranger with lift or for a 79F250 no lift ?? remember i want to get at least if not more lift out the truck when i am done. what deturmants the lift the length of the radius arms and shocks and springs corect?

 

it has radius arm BRACKETS shocks coils blocks in the rear and yea the otehr regular stuff

 

the reason you don't want to order shocks until the truck is sitting on tires front and rear is because you need to measure for shocks.....you can't just call and say "i need shocks for such and such truck"......you have to buy them according to the length you need........

the length of the radius arms are pretty well set......if you use the stockers they are 1 length and if you use extended radius arms then they are another length....

 

crap i just realized you were in Canada......shipping would be outrageous!

 

no offence but please stop. a D60 isnt even in the same league as a 14 bolt. A FF 14bolt is by far the best bang for your buck axle out there. its has 30 spline 1.5" shafts, Full Floating, HUGE ring gear (10.5"), extra pinion bearing like 9", And super cheap. It has the same lug pattern as that 44 (8x6.5"). The FF 14bolt is a straight out of the junkyard swap. no need to upgrade unless you want disks or a different gear ratio.

 

so for the axle i am putting in let say i want drop brackets all i need to do is drop them 1 inch (on the dime?) and if i go with new radius arms all i need longer ones?

 

I dont think you are ready for a SAS, you really need to go over to explorer4x4.com and therangerstation.com and read every thread in their axle swap sections. there are tons of guys who have done this swap.

 

this is my resurch i am reading all i can the ranger station and his site and many others my truck is not driveable as is and i just want to get the swap going) if i went to the ranger station and started to ask "stupid" questions over tehre trying to learn and ask they would tell me the same thing u just did

 

I know that im saying to go over there and just read every Radius arm SAS thread they have along with explorer4x4.com. Then if you still have questions you ask them. Starting from nothing and asking all these questions isnt the best way since there are prolly 10-15 threads on those sites of guys who have been through it.

 

your opinion is like an *** hole.....everybody has 1.......

i personally belive that a Dana 60 IS stronger than a 14 bolt.......

there is also a semi-float version of the 14 bolt that is more readily available than the full float 14 bolt.....

you can get Dana 60's that are full floaters......if it comes out of a F-350, it is a full floater.....in the '70s and '80s they put the Dana 60 in the rear of the 350......