i just bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 5 speed ext. cab, i wanna lift it and i have some questions. i am looking at skyjackers class 1 6 inch lift and 33 x 12.5 inch tires. thats what im thinking. now some questions, any better suggestions, what else will i need to go with the lift?, how do wheel bearings and ball joints hold up to somthing like this? im not a hard core off roader, more looking good and some mudding/screwing around. give me any comments or advice and id greatly appreciate it.
thanks
cory

 

might wanna consider a steering stabilizer. or maybe a shift extension. i lifted my 93 ranger xlt and i didnt need a shift extension though. the steering stabilizer is aight. i dunno about the ball joints or bearings though. im interested to hear someone talk about that.

 

and what about the driveshaft, will i need to find a 1 piece driveshaft?

 

You should either get the Skyjacker Class II lift or the Superlift kit. Both are great kits. I have been running the Superlift 6" kit for 3 years now without any problems.

Here are a list of things you will need:
- front lift componets
- drop pitman arm
- rear lift componets (i recommend NOT using lift blocks)
- new shocks
- new gears for the axles (if you are only running 33's and you have 3.73 gears you should be fine)
- 1 piece rear driveshaft out of a '98+ 4wd ext. cab Ranger
- new tire/wheel combo (33x12.50x15 on a 15x8" or 10" wheel with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and 3.73" back spacing)


Things I HIGHLY recommend for lifting a TTB Ranger:
- Superlift Superunner steering system (~$450) (if you run this, you wont need a steering stabilizer)
- Skyjacker 6" lifted leafs (so you will not have any blocks) (~$450)
- Skyjacker extended brake lines (~$140)


If you are going to install the lift yourself, I would also install new ball joints, wheel bearings, and manual lockouts at the same time.



Most people say that 6" of lift doesn't look right with 33" tires, but IMO it looks great. Here is my truck with 6" lift and 33's:

 

he wouldnt need a shifter extension for a suspension lift -- only for a body lift

 

you also wont need a steering stabilizer if your steering is setup properly. Steering stabilizers only mask the problem, they don't solve it.

 

But it looks cool :-D

 

so whats the difference between the skyjacker class 1 and the superlift i thought they were basicaly the same? also are the gears completely necessary, i know a guy with 35's and stock gearing and it goes fine? also were you saying that the steering will be fine without a stabalizer or only if i buy the steering kit for 450 that you were talking about?

 

the Superlift kit is more like the Skyjacker II kit......

Trust me gears are a must UNLESS you have 3.73 stock gears and are going to run 33's or smaller.....

 

du510, i know your going to regear but how is it working with 33's and stock gears? i no i should but i probaly wont right away

 

if you have anything less than 3.73 gears, then it will suck a$$....i ran 33's and 3.73 gears for about 2 years with not any problems....i got about 15mpg consistantly....

with my 4.56's and 35's, i am getting about 18mpg on the highway and 15mpg in the city...

 

Ya I've been running 33s and 3.73s for probably bout 2-3 years now and get 15-16 mpg city

 

You are good for sometime, just dont expect the response time of stock gearing on stock tires. Its do-able, just not ideal.

Ive run for about 8 months so far on stock gears with 33's. Its not bad on the road really, but then again, its not so easy with the clutch when you want to creep & crawl.

 

well i dont rock crawl, but ya, ne more lift opinions?

 

Why do you have to switch to a 1 piece drive shaft?

 

For a '93 it is fairly cut and dry.......since the suspension is a TTB (Twin Traction Beam).....lifting is cheaper....

You could also get the Skyjacker 8" lift kit.....but then it is a MUST to get the Superunner steering, and even then you have to modify it a bit......

Steering is the most important part when lifting a TTB Ranger. If it isn't right you could wind up wearing steering parts fast ( ball joints, tie rods, etc.).....

 

Because '97 and older Rangers use a 2 piece driveshaft on the extended cabs......when you lift it over 4", you get a vibration from the carrier bearing at low speeds up to 15 mph......the vibration is caused from the rear portion of the driveshaft having a bad u-joint angle and putting excess pressure on the carrier bearing.....

Any extended cab '98+ 4wd Rangers driveshaft will be a direct swap, you just have to remove the caiieer bearing cross member, which according to Fords engineers has no structural value in the frame.....I have been running without the crossmember for about 2 years with no problems

 

so I lifted it 4" I wouldn't have to change the driveshaft?

 

you wouldn't have too, but i would recommend it...

 

it look like 4 wheel parts has the best deal? the superlift comes with everything but break lines for around 750 i think? where do you guys recomend for either superlift or skyjacker

 

I'd say Skyjacker. My dropbrackets look pretty damn indestructible.

Maurice has a Superlift, so I'll let him chime in with his thoughts on that.

 

I have had both the Skyjacker Class II brackets and the Superlift brackets side by side.....they are both identical except for the paint color.....

Check out www.ntwonline.com ......I got my Superlift from them off their "suspension specials" section for $599.....that was everything but the brake lines and drop pitman arm......




I don't persay have 1 brand on my truck anymore.....I have a mix of Superlift and Skyjacker

 

k well i think im gunna go the superlift, do i have to have the 3.73" back spacing or will ne thing else works, i ask cuz i dont think cragar makes them in smooth 8 style or whatever they are called

 

3.73 back spacing is the smallest you should use....

 

well they make 4" i think, also will i need alignment bushings? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...827+4294924761 and will that set work on the rear too or what?