SO i took the truck into today to get the front end aligned, they couldnt do it because the rear bushing on the drivers side upper control arm is messed up. He then proceeded to tell me i need a whole new upper control arm because the bushings and the ball joints cant be replaced----. I find it hard to believe i cant just get new bushings and have them pressed in- anyone do this? i got access to a shop every weekend, with a press. any help and if so, what bushings you guys recommend -thanks

 

I don't recall off hand, but the moog upper control arms with greasable ball joints aren't terribly expensive anyway from rockauto.com. With 35s I would have to think they are due to be replaced anyway.

 

I assume your talking about your 2003? I don't think that you can get the bushings. You probabley are looking at a new control arm. Mine were screwed up, and I just went ahead and got the arms from MOOG, so that way I can replace the balljoints. Stock arm's do NOT have the ability to replaced just the ball joint. You have to purchase the whole damn thing. But with MOOG's you can press the bearing out. As far as the bushings...I really don't know.

 

If you have to replace the bushing on your arm the easiest thing to do is just to get a new arm all together as you can get fresh bushings and a brand new joint. You may run into an issue removing the arm from the spindle if it is tapered into the spindle. Hopefully you can fit a press in there and push it out or if you're lucky you can get the joint out with a pry bar.

 

to replace the upper ball joint, you will have to replace the whole control arm. Check out the MOOG ones. They're greaseable and are better than stock.

 

perfect, thanks for the help, gonna order those this week

 

There are some recent coupon codes for Rockauto.com to try here, search ranger forums as well. Many people here post coupon codes.

 

I just replace my UCA's and ball joints with the MOOG's from RockAuto. I got tired of having to shell out big bucks for an entire UCA when my ball joint would fail. MOOG is the way to go. The MOOG BJ's are grease-able too.

 

Personally I wouldnt go with MOOG. In the end you are going to end up paying more. From my looking around cheapo UCA's are around $35-55 each and are greaseable. The MOOG control arms are around $100 and up, and the ball joints are around $35 to replace. I dont know how many times you plan on replacing those uppers, but im pretty sure im only going to have to replace mine once. Even if I have to do them twice its still going to be cheaper.

As for seperating the upper ball joint from the steering knucle, its very simple, put a bottle jack on the LCA and up to the UCA. A couple pumps and it will push the 2 apart. Ive got a picture around here somewhere if you need it.

 

opposite of what malydeen said, id highly suggest MOOG upper arms. they are larger, the ball joint is replaceable by itself and with 35s youll be doing them more than once and if you have cams in, you will be able to replace the ball joint "cartridge" the second time without getting another alignment or eye balling it

 

Unlimited alignments for 3 years FTW!!! Haha, Ive had my truck in 6 times in 8 months.

I didnt notice that he had larger tires. if you are going through them that quick then it might not be that bad of an idea.

 

well, he is running 35's. that's a LOT of stress on the suspension. having the option to replace the ball joints by themselves will save him money there.

 

thanks for the help, which part number did you guys order? there are a couple different Moog part numbers for a 4x4 ranger, just want to get the ones you guys are running...thanks again guys

 

hope this helps: https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...alljoints.html

 

Sorry to put this in here but since we are talking about Ball Joints.
MOOG sell an Over-Sized Lower Ball Joint (look at Rock-Auto Site), it say it will fit the EDGE but calls for a larger ID.
Are the larger ID Arms available and on what truck ?

I will FINALLY be lifting my truck w/SL Lift Kit and wanted to replace all of the Ball Joint at the same time, things are apart, why not.
I saw the Over-Sized Ball Joints called out and wondered WTF going on.

Any comments on this ?

 

tuning fork is the proper tool, but someone else said bottle jack, that would work though...

where did you get that unlimited alignment thing? i want to get something like that

 

the lower ball joint is in a taper, you need to remove the bolt and tap on the side of the knuckle with a hammer to break the taper...for the upper, you remove the punch bolt (do the upper before the lower) and you can pry up on the upper arm while tapping or using an air hammer to push the knuckle down. you can not use a tuning fork (called a pickle fork in america lol) to separate the upper because it is not in a taper

 

I don't know about your truck, but I tried the cheaper aftermarket brands of UCA's with the balljoints and I replaced 3 in two years because they were so bad. If you go cheap on parts, you end up paying more in the long run.

I highly recommend MOOG's, and it seems a lot of others do too.

 

Here in the states, Firestone has unlimited alignments for about $150 bucks. I got it for mine since I've been doing ball joints in stages. After two times, it will start saving. Take it in twice a year otherwise to keep everything in check.

 

While we are talking about UCA's, why is the LH cheaper than the RH ? What's the difference in them ?

 

Just one of those mysteries I guess. I have the one-piece design, and the LH and RH UCA's are identical.........except for the big R and L stamped in them....LOL

 

the older RH upper control arm was two piece and your only buying the "outer" half so that's why the price difference

 

The one piece UCA's are unrelated to the 2 piece UCA's. The two are totally different. There is no outer part.

Here's a pic of a one piece and a two piece UCA.



Don't mind the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar tie links.

 

the "outer" half is pictured....the "inner" half of the two piece arm has the bushings in it and bolts to the frame

 

Sorry for not specifying but this was actually meant for the 1pc. Each side has different prices and part numbers.