little help with upper control arm...
#1
little help with upper control arm...
SO i took the truck into today to get the front end aligned, they couldnt do it because the rear bushing on the drivers side upper control arm is messed up. He then proceeded to tell me i need a whole new upper control arm because the bushings and the ball joints cant be replaced----. I find it hard to believe i cant just get new bushings and have them pressed in- anyone do this? i got access to a shop every weekend, with a press. any help and if so, what bushings you guys recommend -thanks
#2
#3
I assume your talking about your 2003? I don't think that you can get the bushings. You probabley are looking at a new control arm. Mine were screwed up, and I just went ahead and got the arms from MOOG, so that way I can replace the balljoints. Stock arm's do NOT have the ability to replaced just the ball joint. You have to purchase the whole damn thing. But with MOOG's you can press the bearing out. As far as the bushings...I really don't know.
#4
If you have to replace the bushing on your arm the easiest thing to do is just to get a new arm all together as you can get fresh bushings and a brand new joint. You may run into an issue removing the arm from the spindle if it is tapered into the spindle. Hopefully you can fit a press in there and push it out or if you're lucky you can get the joint out with a pry bar.
#8
#9
Personally I wouldnt go with MOOG. In the end you are going to end up paying more. From my looking around cheapo UCA's are around $35-55 each and are greaseable. The MOOG control arms are around $100 and up, and the ball joints are around $35 to replace. I dont know how many times you plan on replacing those uppers, but im pretty sure im only going to have to replace mine once. Even if I have to do them twice its still going to be cheaper.
As for seperating the upper ball joint from the steering knucle, its very simple, put a bottle jack on the LCA and up to the UCA. A couple pumps and it will push the 2 apart. Ive got a picture around here somewhere if you need it.
As for seperating the upper ball joint from the steering knucle, its very simple, put a bottle jack on the LCA and up to the UCA. A couple pumps and it will push the 2 apart. Ive got a picture around here somewhere if you need it.
#10
opposite of what malydeen said, id highly suggest MOOG upper arms. they are larger, the ball joint is replaceable by itself and with 35s youll be doing them more than once and if you have cams in, you will be able to replace the ball joint "cartridge" the second time without getting another alignment or eye balling it
#11
opposite of what malydeen said, id highly suggest MOOG upper arms. they are larger, the ball joint is replaceable by itself and with 35s youll be doing them more than once and if you have cams in, you will be able to replace the ball joint "cartridge" the second time without getting another alignment or eye balling it
I didnt notice that he had larger tires. if you are going through them that quick then it might not be that bad of an idea.
#12
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Personally I wouldnt go with MOOG. In the end you are going to end up paying more. From my looking around cheapo UCA's are around $35-55 each and are greaseable. The MOOG control arms are around $100 and up, and the ball joints are around $35 to replace. I dont know how many times you plan on replacing those uppers, but im pretty sure im only going to have to replace mine once. Even if I have to do them twice its still going to be cheaper.
As for seperating the upper ball joint from the steering knucle, its very simple, put a bottle jack on the LCA and up to the UCA. A couple pumps and it will push the 2 apart. Ive got a picture around here somewhere if you need it.
As for seperating the upper ball joint from the steering knucle, its very simple, put a bottle jack on the LCA and up to the UCA. A couple pumps and it will push the 2 apart. Ive got a picture around here somewhere if you need it.
#13
#15
Old Guy User…
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Sorry to put this in here but since we are talking about Ball Joints.
MOOG sell an Over-Sized Lower Ball Joint (look at Rock-Auto Site), it say it will fit the EDGE but calls for a larger ID.
Are the larger ID Arms available and on what truck ?
I will FINALLY be lifting my truck w/SL Lift Kit and wanted to replace all of the Ball Joint at the same time, things are apart, why not.
I saw the Over-Sized Ball Joints called out and wondered WTF going on.
Any comments on this ?
MOOG sell an Over-Sized Lower Ball Joint (look at Rock-Auto Site), it say it will fit the EDGE but calls for a larger ID.
Are the larger ID Arms available and on what truck ?
I will FINALLY be lifting my truck w/SL Lift Kit and wanted to replace all of the Ball Joint at the same time, things are apart, why not.
I saw the Over-Sized Ball Joints called out and wondered WTF going on.
Any comments on this ?
#16
If you have to replace the bushing on your arm the easiest thing to do is just to get a new arm all together as you can get fresh bushings and a brand new joint. You may run into an issue removing the arm from the spindle if it is tapered into the spindle. Hopefully you can fit a press in there and push it out or if you're lucky you can get the joint out with a pry bar.
where did you get that unlimited alignment thing? i want to get something like that
#17
the lower ball joint is in a taper, you need to remove the bolt and tap on the side of the knuckle with a hammer to break the taper...for the upper, you remove the punch bolt (do the upper before the lower) and you can pry up on the upper arm while tapping or using an air hammer to push the knuckle down. you can not use a tuning fork (called a pickle fork in america lol) to separate the upper because it is not in a taper
#18
Personally I wouldnt go with MOOG. In the end you are going to end up paying more. From my looking around cheapo UCA's are around $35-55 each and are greaseable. The MOOG control arms are around $100 and up, and the ball joints are around $35 to replace. I dont know how many times you plan on replacing those uppers, but im pretty sure im only going to have to replace mine once. Even if I have to do them twice its still going to be cheaper.
As for seperating the upper ball joint from the steering knucle, its very simple, put a bottle jack on the LCA and up to the UCA. A couple pumps and it will push the 2 apart. Ive got a picture around here somewhere if you need it.
As for seperating the upper ball joint from the steering knucle, its very simple, put a bottle jack on the LCA and up to the UCA. A couple pumps and it will push the 2 apart. Ive got a picture around here somewhere if you need it.
I highly recommend MOOG's, and it seems a lot of others do too.
#19
Here in the states, Firestone has unlimited alignments for about $150 bucks. I got it for mine since I've been doing ball joints in stages. After two times, it will start saving. Take it in twice a year otherwise to keep everything in check.
#21
Just one of those mysteries I guess. I have the one-piece design, and the LH and RH UCA's are identical.........except for the big R and L stamped in them....LOL
#23
Here's a pic of a one piece and a two piece UCA.
Don't mind the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar tie links.