Longer shocks with tbar crank
#1
Longer shocks with tbar crank
I was thinking about it and alot of us crank our tbars. I cranked mine I think about 2", and not to long after my suspension has been very week in the front, very bouncy. I ordered 4 new shocks, and I ordered the front ones 2" longer than stock to match the tbar crank. Shouldn;t all of us with the tbar crank have longer shocks? Otherwise aren't they being stretched? I also ordered a 2" AAL for the rear, so I also got the rear shocks 2" longer.
Was this the right thing to do? I hope they fit and bolt up properly...
Was this the right thing to do? I hope they fit and bolt up properly...
#2
#11
#16
Longer shocks up front mean the upper control arm will hit the frame, the upper ball joint and the CV joints will bind.
Unless you are only gaining about 1" of droop at the most. This is what the camburg 4x4 upgrade years ago did. A slightly longer shock with limit straps so you don't pull the front end apart.
Unless you are only gaining about 1" of droop at the most. This is what the camburg 4x4 upgrade years ago did. A slightly longer shock with limit straps so you don't pull the front end apart.
#17
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#19
When I ordered my KYB monotubes, I called the tech line @ KYB. For THEIR shocks, they say they perform to specs if they are within 1" of the spec static ride height. I asked cause I want to put 1" lift coils on down the road, so my shock is only 1/2" off the spec height, so I am good (geometry of the arms). I think if you want to know for sure, to call the manufacturer.
#21
Okay, here is my opinion on this. It's your truck so do what you want, this is just what I think..
I think if you plan to do this, you should measure. That means unloading the torsion bar, removing the tire and measuring the length (eye-to-eye), and figure out where ball joints and CV joints bind. I have talked to people who have bought longer shocks and they said they gained maybe an inch (of down travel) before anything started to bind, and they put limit straps on.
Being that the shock body is so short, I think a shock that is 2" longer is not going to allow the suspension to compress to the place where it use to. This means when you bottom out, the shock is going to be fully compressed before the lower control arm hits the bump stop. Which is going to reduce the overall amount of suspension travel you have.
The stock ranger suspension (when I have measured) only has about 3" of down travel up front, from ride height. By cranking the torsion bars 2", you only have 1" of down travel in the front end. I wouldn't want to have any less than 2" for a daily driver, and even that can get rough sometimes. Good (firmer) shocks will help keep the suspension from extending quickly but it isn't going to completely solve your problem.
Every time I played with the torsion bars on any ranger based vehicle I had, I put them back to within 1" of stock to get a decent ride again.
My F150 with the leveling kit only has a hair over 2" of down travel up front and it is fine for daily driving, but I find myself thinking more about a real suspension lift any time I take it off pavement to get a little better ride.
Oh and 2" of travel at the shock probably means +3" of travel at the wheel. If I were to randomly guess at how much longer of a shock you could safely run up front, I would say an extra 1/2" at the most..?
I think if you plan to do this, you should measure. That means unloading the torsion bar, removing the tire and measuring the length (eye-to-eye), and figure out where ball joints and CV joints bind. I have talked to people who have bought longer shocks and they said they gained maybe an inch (of down travel) before anything started to bind, and they put limit straps on.
Being that the shock body is so short, I think a shock that is 2" longer is not going to allow the suspension to compress to the place where it use to. This means when you bottom out, the shock is going to be fully compressed before the lower control arm hits the bump stop. Which is going to reduce the overall amount of suspension travel you have.
The stock ranger suspension (when I have measured) only has about 3" of down travel up front, from ride height. By cranking the torsion bars 2", you only have 1" of down travel in the front end. I wouldn't want to have any less than 2" for a daily driver, and even that can get rough sometimes. Good (firmer) shocks will help keep the suspension from extending quickly but it isn't going to completely solve your problem.
Every time I played with the torsion bars on any ranger based vehicle I had, I put them back to within 1" of stock to get a decent ride again.
My F150 with the leveling kit only has a hair over 2" of down travel up front and it is fine for daily driving, but I find myself thinking more about a real suspension lift any time I take it off pavement to get a little better ride.
Oh and 2" of travel at the shock probably means +3" of travel at the wheel. If I were to randomly guess at how much longer of a shock you could safely run up front, I would say an extra 1/2" at the most..?
#22
i have the 2" longer ones in the rear with just my body lift and i have stock shocks on my front with maxed torsion bars and a body lift lol....that bouncy feeling is because your torsion bars are cranked. drive mine...it bounces a ton but im used to it lol its cuz you are making your ride stiffer putting more tension on the tbars.
#23
Add-a-leafs alone do not need longer shocks either and you would run the risk of them bottoming out internally at full compression.
You should be using good quality shocks with stock dimensions front and rear.
#24
#25
i have the 2" longer ones in the rear with just my body lift and i have stock shocks on my front with maxed torsion bars and a body lift lol....that bouncy feeling is because your torsion bars are cranked. drive mine...it bounces a ton but im used to it lol its cuz you are making your ride stiffer putting more tension on the tbars.