Screwed up Torsion Bar Crank
#1
Screwed up Torsion Bar Crank
Well, I went to crank my t-bars the other night without much luck
I broke a rachet & one of the t-bar bolts is slightly rounded (socket still grips, but when turning with severe force it slips off).
Passenger side is killing me. I finished the drivers side, half way through the passenger side the rachet broke, and eventually I slightly rounded off the bolt. I've now been unable to get the bolt to move more. I eventually just went ahead and lowered the driver side, drove, adjusted. After driving about 20 miles both sides are .5" and about 2 hash marks above stock.
I just soaked the bolt in WD-40 during break today, we shall see how that goes. Otherwise, I am going to have to get outside help. My concern is, how many turns should I have the bolt turned now? I want 2" of lift, but I know the shocks settle and drop, so I cant measure on the spot. I can't remember exactly how many turns were done on it already since it wasnt smooth sailing. I'm thinking 4 more turns per side ?
I broke a rachet & one of the t-bar bolts is slightly rounded (socket still grips, but when turning with severe force it slips off).
Passenger side is killing me. I finished the drivers side, half way through the passenger side the rachet broke, and eventually I slightly rounded off the bolt. I've now been unable to get the bolt to move more. I eventually just went ahead and lowered the driver side, drove, adjusted. After driving about 20 miles both sides are .5" and about 2 hash marks above stock.
I just soaked the bolt in WD-40 during break today, we shall see how that goes. Otherwise, I am going to have to get outside help. My concern is, how many turns should I have the bolt turned now? I want 2" of lift, but I know the shocks settle and drop, so I cant measure on the spot. I can't remember exactly how many turns were done on it already since it wasnt smooth sailing. I'm thinking 4 more turns per side ?
#2
#3
Originally Posted by n3elz
What size socket did you use? They're 1/2" bolts on mine.
How many turns varies from truck to truck. You crank it some, move the truck, and measure -- lather, rinse, repeat...
Any ideas would be appreciated.
#4
#5
Originally Posted by TommyC
I used a 1/2"
Well, would it be possible to tell based on the immediate height increase (IE: the unsettled height). I have about .5" that was settled. So if I could find out how tall it should be for 1.5" before being settled I could probably easily get on target.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Well, would it be possible to tell based on the immediate height increase (IE: the unsettled height). I have about .5" that was settled. So if I could find out how tall it should be for 1.5" before being settled I could probably easily get on target.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Better order new torsion adjuster bolts at your first opportunity, and get a new 1/2" socket. I think yours is probably worn or otherwise out of tolerance.
The adjusters have a vicious threadlocker on them, and usually you need a nice long ratchet to turn them. Using a short one is frustrating. After you've adjusted them up and down a few times, the threadlocker gets used up and it's not so bad anymore.
They say the threadlocker should be on there, but I'm running mine without any these days. You'll have to make your own decision on that.
#6
Originally Posted by n3elz
No, because the radial geometry changes as you crank it. Why do you need to "calculate" it? Why not just adjust it until it's where you want it?
Originally Posted by n3elz
get a new 1/2" socket. I think yours is probably worn or otherwise out of tolerance.
The adjusters have a vicious threadlocker on them, and usually you need a nice long ratchet to turn them. Using a short one is frustrating.
The adjusters have a vicious threadlocker on them, and usually you need a nice long ratchet to turn them. Using a short one is frustrating.
#8
Good enough. Oh, is it a "6 point" socket? I'd use one of those because of the torque required. A "12 point" is more likely to strip the points off the bolt head.
Good luck. We all struggled with this and the torque required is a bit frightening when you go to do it the first time -- you wonder if there's a locknut or something, lol.
Good luck. We all struggled with this and the torque required is a bit frightening when you go to do it the first time -- you wonder if there's a locknut or something, lol.
#9
Originally Posted by Drew1287
Are you doing this with the truck jacked up or sitting on the ground?
I did my last truck jacked up and it was smooth sailing...
I did my last truck jacked up and it was smooth sailing...
Originally Posted by n3elz
Good enough. Oh, is it a "6 point" socket? I'd use one of those because of the torque required. A "12 point" is more likely to strip the points off the bolt head.
GOOD NEWS: I'm getting it done @ a shop for no charge. I'm going to ask them to crank it 4 more turns since I'm fairly confident I got at least 2 - 3 cranks out of both sides.
#10
Very good. Yes, you're thinking correctly about the sockets. A 6 point socket has a hole that's the same hexagonal shape as the bolt or nut you're turning. A 12 point looks more "round" inside, and has 12 v-shaped indentations around the inside of the socket to engage the nut or bolt.
The advantage of a 12 point is it's easier to get on the nut/bolt in tight places. The 6 points advantage is that it puts less stress on the nut/bolt points when torque is applied.
The advantage of a 12 point is it's easier to get on the nut/bolt in tight places. The 6 points advantage is that it puts less stress on the nut/bolt points when torque is applied.
#13
hit it with an impact, and its like a slow airbag setup! watch the truck rise as you crank them up.
we measure side to side, top of the tire to the fender. then crank up some, measure again, bounce the front of the truck. remmeasure, crank some more, even it out. bounce it again, and even it out one more time.
we measure side to side, top of the tire to the fender. then crank up some, measure again, bounce the front of the truck. remmeasure, crank some more, even it out. bounce it again, and even it out one more time.
#14
#18
i would see it makin it easier, but youd have to jack it up, tighten them, lower it, measure progress and to see if its level, lift it up again, and repeat. Get a 2nd person, measure from the top of the tire to the fender on both sides, and go up as far as you want with the bolt allowing, bounce the front of the truck, and remeasure. Some have said that you need to lift the vehicle up if its not equiped with some kind of urethane bushins, but i see no difference.
#21
Originally Posted by TommyC
I don't know tools at all, in all honesty I never heard of such a difference before you mentioned anything. I'm guessing 12 point has more teeth? If that is the case im pretty sure I was using a 12 point as it definately had more than 6 teeth.
#23
YOU GUYS ROCK!!...I was changing out my T-bars to #1's ..I rounded the edges a bit on a T-Bar bolt using the 13 mm... I thought it was right since the cover bolts are 13mm as well..So I rounded one and was all pissed..Then I searched here found this thread and went back down to the garage and banged on a 1/2..Worked great after that...Anyway you guys made my day just because you are here...THANK YOU !
#24
Originally Posted by 04 EDGE
get a 1/2 inch impact gun and a 13 mm socket and bottom both both bolts out!
i love R/F
i love R/F
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10-30-2015 03:15 PM