This may sound stupid but what are #1 Torsion keys??? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-15-2009
Jwad00's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, Mo
Posts: 361
This may sound stupid but what are #1 Torsion keys???

Hey guys I have noticed in some of your signatures it says under your mods list "#1 Torsion keys" What are these?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-15-2009
vista4.0's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Beaver Falls, PA
Posts: 2,824
never heard of #1 torsion keys, but #1 torsion bars are the stiffest of the bars and hold up well against sagging after doing a t-bar crank.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-15-2009
stevev88's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: north van, BC
Posts: 220
whats the cost on a pair?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-15-2009
vista4.0's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Beaver Falls, PA
Posts: 2,824
if i remember correctly $80 a side from ford.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-15-2009
Jwad00's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, Mo
Posts: 361
Maybe it was Torsion bars i read and not keys. My bad. So Ford sells these eh? Are they like F-150 torsion bars so they are stronger or are they just for rangers but are different than stock? And how does the stiffness of them make them better to use after a torsion bar crank?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-15-2009
Level III Supporter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: usa
Posts: 24,936
basically explorer 5.0L bars. which will provide more lift.

the price has gone up there more then $80 a side now..
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-15-2009
Billy4x4's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kawartha Lakes
Posts: 626
different trim levels also factor in which bar youll have..

my dealership quoted $137 for driver side and $138? for passenger.. canadian mind ya..
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-15-2009
01_ranger_4x4's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Muskegon, Michigan
Posts: 3,585
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy4x420 View Post
different trim levels also factor in which bar youll have..

my dealership quoted $137 for driver side and $138? for passenger.. canadian mind ya..
yeah mine had #1 bars from the factory
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-15-2009
BLK02's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 1,350
my 02' had number one bars...stiffer ride than my buddy's cobra and if I went over a speed bump too fast the front wheels would hop off the ground, I HATED them
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-15-2009
Jwad00's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, Mo
Posts: 361
How do I tell what kinda torsion bars i have? Does anyone have the part # for the #1 torsion bars? And how do you install them?
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-15-2009
IN2 FX4's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 855
I like the #1 bars on my 02 FX4. They work well off-road and not too bad on speed bumps. There is a certain speed that will make the tires hop off the ground on speed bumps. I either go faster or slower than that speed and all is well. Depending on what kind of speed bump, I will go anywhere from 15 to 20 mph over them or I will go 30+. The higher speed works the suspension pretty good and I don't do that very often.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-15-2009
Level III Supporter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: usa
Posts: 24,936
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK02 View Post
my 02' had number one bars...stiffer ride than my buddy's cobra and if I went over a speed bump too fast the front wheels would hop off the ground, I HATED them
did you just seriously compare your truck to a mustang... really... really... i can tell your not a truck person..


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwad00 View Post
How do I tell what kinda torsion bars i have? Does anyone have the part # for the #1 torsion bars? And how do you install them?
look on door tag for spring.. should be like BK or 1F bla bla first letter/number is T-bar
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-15-2009
Jwad00's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, Mo
Posts: 361
Cool thanks Zach
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-16-2009
Billy4x4's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kawartha Lakes
Posts: 626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jwad00 View Post
How do I tell what kinda torsion bars i have? Does anyone have the part # for the #1 torsion bars? And how do you install them?
Ford Part ##s for Reference...

F67Z-5B326-FA Pass side
F67Z-5B326-FB Drivers side
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-17-2009
BLK02's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 1,350
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
did you just seriously compare your truck to a mustang... really... really... i can tell your not a truck person..
haha riiight... I compared the STIFFNESS, as far as im concerned a cobra thats built for road racing should be a lot stiffer than my truck... whats wrong with that
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 09-17-2009
fabioonachopper's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ware,Ma
Posts: 96
is it a direct bolt on replacement? do you have to buy anything or mickey mouse together anything?
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 09-18-2009
morris's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: South Detroit.
Posts: 7,833
i don't think so, you just undo some screws and pull them out. (coles notes)

*someone whose done it wanna chime in with step by step*
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 09-18-2009
Level III Supporter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: usa
Posts: 24,936
Quote:
Originally Posted by fabioonachopper View Post
is it a direct bolt on replacement? do you have to buy anything or mickey mouse together anything?
put truck on jack stands, remove T-bar cage, back out bolt, 2 jaw puller run in the key and remove key stop, run out puller, remove bar, put key on new bar, reinstall, run bolt back in preset 15 turns after bolt seated on key


takes about 30 min for both sides total..
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 09-18-2009
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
I prefer the method of unbolting everything upfront so that it'll allow enough down travel of the lower control arm and in turn pivoting the key off the stop...

unbolt upper shock mount.
unbolt sway bar link.
unbolt CV shaft nut(may or may not have to do this)
unbolt upper balljoint bolt(jack under control arm.)
unbolt torsion bar cover/skid plate
unbolt adjustment bolt.
lower jack under control arm enough to pivot the arm down and release tension off of the key stop, then slide the stop out, pull down on the key, slide bar out of arm.


I used a big c-clamp which I found unsafe and I used a 2 jaw puller, and that was REALLY unsafe IMO and it took my 2 jaw out of commission. Found my way doesn't add much time at all to the swap.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 09-18-2009
xp1ik99's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lexington Park, MD
Posts: 3,230
i want #1 bars someone send me a pair
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 09-18-2009
morris's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: South Detroit.
Posts: 7,833
so the factory adjustment is 15 turns. incase when i do this for my keys, i forget how many turns it took to undo the bolts. thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 09-18-2009
Level III Supporter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: usa
Posts: 24,936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
I prefer the method of unbolting everything upfront so that it'll allow enough down travel of the lower control arm and in turn pivoting the key off the stop...

unbolt upper shock mount.
unbolt sway bar link.
unbolt CV shaft nut(may or may not have to do this)
unbolt upper balljoint bolt(jack under control arm.)
unbolt torsion bar cover/skid plate
unbolt adjustment bolt.
lower jack under control arm enough to pivot the arm down and release tension off of the key stop, then slide the stop out, pull down on the key, slide bar out of arm.


I used a big c-clamp which I found unsafe and I used a 2 jaw puller, and that was REALLY unsafe IMO and it took my 2 jaw out of commission. Found my way doesn't add much time at all to the swap.

your doing WAY WAY WAY to much work support the FRAME with the jack leave the tire on still on the ground that way the weight which would be on the T-bar is now on the jack but the A-arm will not swing down because the tire is still there.

Honestly Shane we did 2 truck back to back. Tylers and mine, Mine was like 35 min. Tylers was like 26min...
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 09-18-2009
Fx4wannabe01's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boring, Oregon
Posts: 21,721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
your doing WAY WAY WAY to much work support the FRAME with the jack leave the tire on still on the ground that way the weight which would be on the T-bar is now on the jack but the A-arm will not swing down because the tire is still there.

Honestly Shane we did 2 truck back to back. Tylers and mine, Mine was like 35 min. Tylers was like 26min...
really? cuz this is what it looked like when my tool failed on me...



I did it this way with all hand tools on the 2nd side, took a whopping 35 min for the second side from wheel off to wheel on. 1st side the 2jaw took a dump on me. Austin's truck, my truck, and Cory's truck was done via the c-clamp trick which was really sketchy to begin with.



so how'd you cure the issue of the 2 jaw wanting to twist towards the outside of the truck on that CURVED trans/torsion xmember???



I guess I'd rather do it the safe way that way I don't have a tool breaking loose on me and flying towards my head. But maybe that's just me.

You mentioned 15 turns on each side? Wrong. You know this.....driver side is turned more than the passenger side to make the truck level left to right.

BTW, so what if I skipped a step. The step of getting the frame up via jackstands, that way the trucks weight is off the bars.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale: Stock 2001 torsion keys and #1 Torsion Bars - MO 01RangerEdge Suspension, Tires, & Wheels 7 01-10-2013 06:01 AM
For Sale: Superlift Shocks, #1 Torsion Bars, 99 Torsion Keys (TX) RangerNVS Suspension, Tires, & Wheels 26 01-22-2010 11:28 AM
STUPID!STUPID!STUPID! jtfoxman General Ford Ranger Discussion 14 07-30-2009 12:42 AM
this may sound stupid, but what is dovetailing??? dixie_boysles General Ford Ranger Discussion 4 05-27-2009 07:20 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:08 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.