Suggestions (2wd Suspension Upgrades to Lift)
#1
02-18-2009
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Suggestions (2wd Suspension Upgrades to Lift)
Ok, so I have a 3" spindle lift, 2" coils, and blocks in the rear. I don't offroad really with the truck, it's mostly a pavement pounder (commuter) but I take it on camping trips and whatnot. I live out in the country too so I'm not 100% poser! :P (more like 75%!)
Anyways, I have an issue with the spindle tapping the frame on the left side when it's down traveling. I put a thick rubber piece there, for almost a year now and it's worked as far as stopping the rough knocking sound.
Well, this year I plan on buying a very very small camper, and I want the suspension right. Here are my plans, I need suggestions. Price is a HUGE factor since I don't really offroad, so please keep that in mind. Also, I'm an artist by day, so I'm not big on installing stuff myself, tho my brother and I put on the lift (a bit hairy tho!)
New Upper Control Arms Suggestions(does that come with a new ball joint?) Cost of getting installed?
New Shocks. I have a set of ****ty "extended shocks" that came with the lift. I want a smoother ride.
Rear Shackle. I'm ok with the large blocks since I don't offroad, but I don't want the rear-end sagging anymore, ESPECIALLY if I were carrying a camper trailer.
Truck Specs:
2008 2.3l
5" lift (3" spindle, 1" space (2" of lift at the wheel)
4" Aluminum Blocks
4.56 gear ratio
THANKS Y'ALL!
LINKS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED!
Anyways, I have an issue with the spindle tapping the frame on the left side when it's down traveling. I put a thick rubber piece there, for almost a year now and it's worked as far as stopping the rough knocking sound.
Well, this year I plan on buying a very very small camper, and I want the suspension right. Here are my plans, I need suggestions. Price is a HUGE factor since I don't really offroad, so please keep that in mind. Also, I'm an artist by day, so I'm not big on installing stuff myself, tho my brother and I put on the lift (a bit hairy tho!)
New Upper Control Arms Suggestions(does that come with a new ball joint?) Cost of getting installed?
New Shocks. I have a set of ****ty "extended shocks" that came with the lift. I want a smoother ride.
Rear Shackle. I'm ok with the large blocks since I don't offroad, but I don't want the rear-end sagging anymore, ESPECIALLY if I were carrying a camper trailer.
Truck Specs:
2008 2.3l
5" lift (3" spindle, 1" space (2" of lift at the wheel)
4" Aluminum Blocks
4.56 gear ratio
THANKS Y'ALL!
LINKS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED!
Last edited by Rainier; 02-18-2009 at 08:00 PM.
#3
02-18-2009
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#5
02-19-2009
Join Date: Oct 2007
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#6
02-19-2009
Well theres not much you can do except take the lift coils off, all they do is push the suspension lower so you basically have no suspension droop. Your probably 2" away from hitting your spindle or upper arm at all times, thats just the nature of the kit. It still goes up and down in the exact same motion as stock.
Fabtech sells a upper arm bumpstop with their upper arm kit. You could also get some limit straps to keep it from hitting the frame.
Fabtech sells a upper arm bumpstop with their upper arm kit. You could also get some limit straps to keep it from hitting the frame.
#7
02-19-2009
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Right on. Would the upper arm kit stop it from hitting the frame? I'm under the assumption they will reach outwards further and make the spindle sit at a more natural angle.
Also what about suggestions on new shocks?
@crunchy: It's from suspensionmax.com, this set:
http://shop.suspensionmax.com/Shop/C...4532/SFV/32526
Though it was a bit cheaper when I bought and the spindles they sent were actually Doetsche brand. Kinda glad I went back to their site, I see they sell a set of shackles now! The shocks I got were different, and crap. They creak!
Also what about suggestions on new shocks?
@crunchy: It's from suspensionmax.com, this set:
http://shop.suspensionmax.com/Shop/C...4532/SFV/32526
Though it was a bit cheaper when I bought and the spindles they sent were actually Doetsche brand. Kinda glad I went back to their site, I see they sell a set of shackles now! The shocks I got were different, and crap. They creak!
#9
02-19-2009
If you want a bigger load capacity, look at getting a set of 63" chevy leaf springs.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...vy_springs.htm
Very easy to do, I have a set in my basement waiting to be put on.
I odnt know about the shocks though, I suppose you can get a set of Bilsteins, you just have to measure your travel and compression to make sure you do not destroy them when cycling through your travel.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...vy_springs.htm
Very easy to do, I have a set in my basement waiting to be put on.
I odnt know about the shocks though, I suppose you can get a set of Bilsteins, you just have to measure your travel and compression to make sure you do not destroy them when cycling through your travel.
#12
02-19-2009
#14
02-20-2009
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#15
02-22-2009
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What's so bad about the aluminum blocks? I just got a half yard of moist soil dumped in the back and other than it sagging, I didn't have any problems with the blocks. I've specifically been told that aluminum blocks are ok for normal driving, and even light off-roading (light trail riding).
#16
02-22-2009
Shane's
Dustin's
(from FSC forums)
One more example, once again, sheared the retaining pin.
Captain Obvious used to have some pics of his that broke driving down the street, but they've been deleted I guess. I'm sure if you pm'd him he'd be happy to explain what happened to him though.
Anyways man I'm just trying to give you a heads up on what could happen with these aluminum blocks. They've been proven to be weak and have a reputation for splitting and shearing the retaining pins, which can cause much bigger problems then replacing a set of blocks.
Dustin's
Ok, here's the story, it doesn't really look that bad by looking at the blocks, but the truck is what got the
damage.Sadly I have NO pictures of the truck, didn't own a camera at the time (The pos I had quit)
and didn't have time to get one, besides taking pictures was the last thing on my mind. I had to get it fixed
because i had to drive it (daily driver).
So here's what happened:I was looking for some 2" lift blocks for my truck, I had looked on the internet and the
GOOD lift blocks were around $40-$50, well I went to autozone and was looking around and spotted the cheapos, I
had heard the stories of problems with them but I thought what could go wrong (Mistake #1). So I put these things
on my truck (Mistake#2) and the next day decide to go wheeling (Mistake #3).
So I go to an area I hadn't been to in a few weeks, I run MOST of the trail perfect not one problem,
well the way this trail runs you go in one end and leave at another end (around 25 miles from where you started),
well I top a steep (around 35 to 40 deg. downhill) hill and start down it, about half way down I see a rock ledge
sticking up (Not really big, probably sticking up about 6"-8", I knew it was there I'd
ran over it probably 10- 12 times, no problems going over it, at least the other times)I slow down and run over it
with my front tires, they go over fine, the back tires not so lucky, the passenger side tire starts to go over the
rock, then all hell breaks loose, the retaining pin shears off(The nuts on the u-bolts were torqued to spec)
allowing the axle to push back into the bed and also allowing it to hang on the rock, the problem is the truck
keeps going, pulling the axle back farther then basically jerking the nuts off the u-bolt, finally the truck stops
moving, I get out and look
and the driver side rear tire is against the frame, the passenger tire has been
pushed back about 2 to 2 1/2 ft. into the bed of the truck,it's completely shredded, the drive shaft is broke, the
leaf spring on the drivers side is bent (that's right it's bent (remember zabeard's leaf spring? Like that!). 6
hrs., 2 tow trucks, and $450 later the things finally at a shop to be fixed, turns out my ring and pinion are shot,
the bed needs replaced, leaf spring, drive shaft, tire, among other things.
Since I got it fixed I put on a superlift 2" block, I've ran over that rock 20-25 times since and not one problem,
I look back now and don't know why I bought those damn things, I mean they were ALUMINUM!
So, by me being a cheapass and saving $30 dollars, cost me around $2,500.
Lesson learned, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!
damage.Sadly I have NO pictures of the truck, didn't own a camera at the time (The pos I had quit)
and didn't have time to get one, besides taking pictures was the last thing on my mind. I had to get it fixed
because i had to drive it (daily driver).
So here's what happened:I was looking for some 2" lift blocks for my truck, I had looked on the internet and the
GOOD lift blocks were around $40-$50, well I went to autozone and was looking around and spotted the cheapos, I
had heard the stories of problems with them but I thought what could go wrong (Mistake #1). So I put these things
on my truck (Mistake#2) and the next day decide to go wheeling (Mistake #3).
So I go to an area I hadn't been to in a few weeks, I run MOST of the trail perfect not one problem,
well the way this trail runs you go in one end and leave at another end (around 25 miles from where you started),
well I top a steep (around 35 to 40 deg. downhill) hill and start down it, about half way down I see a rock ledge
sticking up (Not really big, probably sticking up about 6"-8", I knew it was there I'd
ran over it probably 10- 12 times, no problems going over it, at least the other times)I slow down and run over it
with my front tires, they go over fine, the back tires not so lucky, the passenger side tire starts to go over the
rock, then all hell breaks loose, the retaining pin shears off(The nuts on the u-bolts were torqued to spec)
allowing the axle to push back into the bed and also allowing it to hang on the rock, the problem is the truck
keeps going, pulling the axle back farther then basically jerking the nuts off the u-bolt, finally the truck stops
moving, I get out and look
and the driver side rear tire is against the frame, the passenger tire has been pushed back about 2 to 2 1/2 ft. into the bed of the truck,it's completely shredded, the drive shaft is broke, the
leaf spring on the drivers side is bent (that's right it's bent (remember zabeard's leaf spring? Like that!). 6
hrs., 2 tow trucks, and $450 later the things finally at a shop to be fixed, turns out my ring and pinion are shot,
the bed needs replaced, leaf spring, drive shaft, tire, among other things.
Since I got it fixed I put on a superlift 2" block, I've ran over that rock 20-25 times since and not one problem,
I look back now and don't know why I bought those damn things, I mean they were ALUMINUM!
So, by me being a cheapass and saving $30 dollars, cost me around $2,500.
Lesson learned, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!
One more example, once again, sheared the retaining pin.
Originally Posted by SSK1500
I have a Pro Comp 6" lift with the blocks in the rear. I was going arounf a turn on the road and the passenger side block decided to fall out, axle moved forward end ripped up the body then moved back and ripped up the body, snapped the brake line and the drive shaft fell out of the transfer case. Im prety sure there was supposed to be a locating pin in the block which obviously isn't there any more. All I can say is that I will never use aluminum blocks again and probably will not buy pro comp again.
Captain Obvious used to have some pics of his that broke driving down the street, but they've been deleted I guess. I'm sure if you pm'd him he'd be happy to explain what happened to him though.
Anyways man I'm just trying to give you a heads up on what could happen with these aluminum blocks. They've been proven to be weak and have a reputation for splitting and shearing the retaining pins, which can cause much bigger problems then replacing a set of blocks.
Last edited by RazorsEDGE; 02-22-2009 at 10:33 AM.
#18
02-22-2009
http://www.jackit.com/blocks/blocks.htm
Ductile iron is the best, second would be the cast blocks. I personally ran the tuff country cast 4" blocks for quite a while with no problems.
Ductile iron is the best, second would be the cast blocks. I personally ran the tuff country cast 4" blocks for quite a while with no problems.
#19
02-22-2009
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Austin, Tx
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Thanks man. I appreciate your concern.
The blocks I have aren't from Autozone, they're from suspensionmax.com and came with the lift. Do you think I'll be ok for a bit until I can get these ordered and installed? Again I don't offroad, but you got me freakin' scared!
Also, you think the 5.5" would be ok? I hate the rear sag.. I thought about getting some shackles though.
Which 4" ones did you get? There are 3 listed with different widths. Thanks for your help! :)
The blocks I have aren't from Autozone, they're from suspensionmax.com and came with the lift. Do you think I'll be ok for a bit until I can get these ordered and installed? Again I don't offroad, but you got me freakin' scared!
Also, you think the 5.5" would be ok? I hate the rear sag.. I thought about getting some shackles though.
Which 4" ones did you get? There are 3 listed with different widths. Thanks for your help! :)
#21
02-22-2009
Thanks man. I appreciate your concern.
The blocks I have aren't from Autozone, they're from suspensionmax.com and came with the lift. Do you think I'll be ok for a bit until I can get these ordered and installed? Again I don't offroad, but you got me freakin' scared!
Also, you think the 5.5" would be ok? I hate the rear sag.. I thought about getting some shackles though.
Which 4" ones did you get? There are 3 listed with different widths. Thanks for your help! :)
The blocks I have aren't from Autozone, they're from suspensionmax.com and came with the lift. Do you think I'll be ok for a bit until I can get these ordered and installed? Again I don't offroad, but you got me freakin' scared!
Also, you think the 5.5" would be ok? I hate the rear sag.. I thought about getting some shackles though.
Which 4" ones did you get? There are 3 listed with different widths. Thanks for your help! :)
You want the 2.5" width blocks. I wouldn't go with a block taller than 4 inches. I think your best bet would be to use a 3 inch block along with the shackles. The taller the block you run, the more axle wrap you'll get.
You'll probably be ok for a while, I'm not saying don't drive the truck until you get those blocks replaced. But don't think those aluminum blocks will never let you down.
#23
02-22-2009
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Oh, to add to the paranoia, one afternoon I punched the gas in reverse to get up a really steep parking lot, and I heard a pop. Went back into first and as soon as I started to go, it popped back. Never did it again (and hasn't) unless I punch it in reverse, which I did one other time (and noticed it's definitely coming from the rear). I went home and tightened the the u-bolts. I haven't tried it since then. Would this be my blocks?
In the meantime, I'm ordering the steel blocks. :) And, just to be sure, these are the right ones correct?: http://www.jackit.com/store/supercart.cgi?s=tuf_79004 And, is that order for the set? Thx Razor!
In the meantime, I'm ordering the steel blocks. :) And, just to be sure, these are the right ones correct?: http://www.jackit.com/store/supercart.cgi?s=tuf_79004 And, is that order for the set? Thx Razor!
Last edited by Rainier; 02-22-2009 at 09:47 PM.
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