Just Installed Prekeys on my 2009 FX4, thought I would post some pics as well my opinion on installing.

I forgot to measure my height before but I can see a noticeable difference. I estimate 1in total lift.

Installing took a lot longer than I wanted. Probably took me 5 hrs total. First side took 4hrs 30 min the second side 30 min. I tried first using the bottle jack method. This didn't work for my truck no matter what I did. The bottle jack method relies on the weight of the truck to push the key up (put torsion on the key), however no matter how I tried the key would not torque enough for me to get the spacer back in (truck wasn't heavy enough). Had to make a trip to princess auto and get a 3" 2 jaw gear puller. I would recommend something larger, 4" or greater. This worked perfectly and took me 30 min per side. Recommend using a gear puller, MUCH easier and cost me $15.

Now for the pictures. Note: Parked on a slant, Included pictures of what's to come. MT 16x8 Classic II Black. 265/75/16 Dura Tracs.

Before Install:


photo 1 by Roblair89

photo 2 by Roblair89

photo 3 by Roblair89, on Flickr

After: Not Best Quality Pics


photo 5 by Roblair89

photo 2(1) by Roblair89

photo 3(1) by Roblair89

photo 1(1) by Roblair89

Whats to Come:

photo 5(1) by Roblair89

photo 4 by Roblair89

The Gear Puller, w/ nut I put on the end:

photo 4(1) by Roblair89

 

Looks great! Like your tire and wheel choice.

 

Nice! I did this not to long ago on my 2011. I gained two inches up front.

 

x2 on the sweet wheel/tire combo!! will look great!

 

I love those wheels!

 

Update, Belltech 6400 installed, and cranked t-bar two more turns on top of pre-key.

Before:

photo 3 by Roblair89, on Flickr


After:

photo by Roblair89, on Flickr

 

Looks good! Those tires/wheels are going to look great on there.

 

Looks nice!

Get the tires on already!! lol.

 

Any updates?

 

Ride is Stiffer but nothing unbearable. Not like the ranger drives nice to begin with. Pictures of wheels/tires up as soon as their put on. Looking like 1st week December

 

Nice! Can't wait to see it with new rims and tires

 

Your truck is going to look awsome with the new wheels and meats,

 

It'll look better with the dura's once those wheelwells are filled out.

I also found that after the first side was done. The second key did the same thing. It wouldn't lift up enough to Slide the key back in. 5 hours is what it took us front and back for mine.

 

Were abouts are you in Edmonton?

 

Finally got around to taking pictures....



photo 2(2) by Roblair89, on Flickr

photo 1(2) by Roblair89, on Flickr

 

Looks real good!

 

Wirelessly posted (Droid2)

Tires and wheels look great!

 

Just curious. Ive been doing a lot of research into torsion keys vs cranking and ive seen a lot about "pre-keys". I have absolutely no clue what that means. What eactly are pre keys? I was told something about pre keys relating to my truck(2003 FX4) and that I wouldnt have to worry about swapping keys to level it as thats the route I was gonna go to level it. Bu like I said I have no clue what that means. Any help would be greatly apprecited.

 

In 2008+ Rangers, Ford used a different torsion key that makes the front lower roughly about an inch. So if your truck is 2007 and previous you have the best torsion key.

Pre-key just means taking a key out of a 2007 and previous and installing it in a 2008+ for the extra lift. Keys can be had online new or pull them from auto scrap yard.

In your case, 2003, you have the highest factory made key available. So Pre-key does not apply to you. All you need to do is adjust your torsion bar bolt for a free lift. Don't go too high or your ride will be terrible (I've done it) and/or wear front suspension components quicker. Adjusting the torsion bolt is very easy and there are lots of threads around on how to if you just search.

FYI there are aftermarket keys out there that claim 2+ inches of lift. I've never used them because guys on here recommend not too. Now that I've cranked my bar I can see what they mean. No way will it ride nice or not damage something.

 

Ok thanks. That really clears things up. So the keys that are sold by say ready life or tuff country are the same as the keys now? I just have to adjust the bolt? Im just unsure as to what route to take because my one friend (who is a mechanic) said that I should go with the keys instead of cranking the bars. But if my keys act the same way I shouldnt have to worry about it? Im just trying to go with the lesser of 2 evils here as Ive heard botha crank and keys will wear out suspension components faster than stock. But Im planning on swapping out all ball joints and putting long travel shocks in anyway. Suspension was never my strong point on vehicles so Im trying to get as much feedback as I can before I do any real work. Thanks again.

 

The keys offered by those companies listed are indexed way too much. Numerous guys ( myself included) have cranked their bolts and as long as you don't max them out and get an alignment you won't have too many issues. As for the ride, it's a truck. Want a cloud? buy a caddy.

 

Lol. yeah I never bought a truck for the ride. If I want a car like ride Ill buy a car. So it looks like that cranking stock would be the best bet. I was just looking for the option that would put the least wear on the front end. Would you happen to know how much of the thread on the stock keys should be showing? I got under there and looked today and it looked like about an inch of thread was showing on the bolt where it sits now.

 

Those wheels are gorgeous!

 

I think it's preference. I cranked mine to eliminate the lean from the gas tank and weight on the driver side. I don't remember how much is showing.

 

1 inch sounds stock to me. Mine are showing about 3/8" on drivers and 1/2" on pass.

I'll take more pics when winter passes and I can shine her up. Thinking of taking my Mud flaps off...