Wheel Bearing Problem
#1
Wheel Bearing Problem
The passenger side wheel bearing self destructed so I decided to replace rotors and wheel bearings. The problem I have is the passenger side spindle has what looks like a collar that has an 1.25 inch washer that i cannot remove. the driver side does not have, should both spindles be the same? The outer wheel bearing cannot be installed over it. See attached pics.
#2
That washer appears to be seized onto the spindle... clean the grease and crap off, then hit it with a propane torch and see if you can get the washer to move with a slide hammer or something like that. Avoid marring/smashing/banging/effing up the spindle for obvious reasons.
If that doesn't work, get a cut off wheel (3" air powered or even a dremel with the little 1.5" cut off wheel... a 4.5" grinder would be too big and hard to control in this situation) and carefully cut almost all the way through it without hitting the spindle, and then try a cold chisel and hammer in the groove you made. Same thing here... don't mess up the spindle.
Reason: Bearing got super hot, heat partially or fully seized that washer to the spindle. Just hope that thing isn't friction welded on... if it is, you'll know because it will be impossible to remove with the above techniques.
Have you tried tapping the back of it with a hammer? Lightly hitting it, or even smashing it? That may be all it needs. Try that first. Again, do not damage the spindle... wrap a towel over it to help prevent damage if you miss with the hammer and/or chisel.
In any case, you may end up having to buy a new washer. Ford dealer or an auto parts store should have it... bring the driver's side one with you to get an exact match. It will have to be the same I.D. and O.D. and at least as thick as the old one.
If that doesn't work, get a cut off wheel (3" air powered or even a dremel with the little 1.5" cut off wheel... a 4.5" grinder would be too big and hard to control in this situation) and carefully cut almost all the way through it without hitting the spindle, and then try a cold chisel and hammer in the groove you made. Same thing here... don't mess up the spindle.
Reason: Bearing got super hot, heat partially or fully seized that washer to the spindle. Just hope that thing isn't friction welded on... if it is, you'll know because it will be impossible to remove with the above techniques.
Have you tried tapping the back of it with a hammer? Lightly hitting it, or even smashing it? That may be all it needs. Try that first. Again, do not damage the spindle... wrap a towel over it to help prevent damage if you miss with the hammer and/or chisel.
In any case, you may end up having to buy a new washer. Ford dealer or an auto parts store should have it... bring the driver's side one with you to get an exact match. It will have to be the same I.D. and O.D. and at least as thick as the old one.
#3
#4
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
IMHO… replace the spindle/knuckle !
Why, when the bearing self-destructed it spun on the spindle, heating it up (black marks) and galled the shaft.
The collar looks like it is part of the outer bearing that is seized to the shaft; the outer bearing usually slides on and off by itself or with a slight tap of a hammer.
Minimum… clean it up as suggested above and get the spindle looked at by a competent mechanic to determine if the stress to the surface is deeper and requires replacement.
Why, when the bearing self-destructed it spun on the spindle, heating it up (black marks) and galled the shaft.
The collar looks like it is part of the outer bearing that is seized to the shaft; the outer bearing usually slides on and off by itself or with a slight tap of a hammer.
Minimum… clean it up as suggested above and get the spindle looked at by a competent mechanic to determine if the stress to the surface is deeper and requires replacement.
#7
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Poor install when the hub was off last, not tight enough or too tight.
To me Factory spec is by torque, not sure what is the best way.
We used to check the wheel bearing every other oil change/greasing, maybe every 5K miles; pull the bearings, wash the bearings and repack the bearings.
Some of these lifetime lubes may be the trouble too, "planned obsolescence”.
The color of the spindle is what bothers me.
#11
Now that they mentioned it and made me look even closer, I would recommend replacing the spindle as well.
As for grease, use Valvoline Durablend synthetic blend grease. It is made for this type of use. About 11 bucks for a little 1 pound tub of it. I know several others that use this grease for wheel bearings.
Also, do not use one of those 'transparent' greases without moly (molybdenum disulfide) because it will not work as well, and potentially could cause this problem all over again.
The grease you're looking for is something of a dark gray/black. Might look real shiny. That's what you want. The above Valvoline is a grease you can use, it is very dark gray and has moly in it, which Ford highly recommends that the grease contain moly for this application.
Good luck, hope all goes well with the project.
As for grease, use Valvoline Durablend synthetic blend grease. It is made for this type of use. About 11 bucks for a little 1 pound tub of it. I know several others that use this grease for wheel bearings.
Also, do not use one of those 'transparent' greases without moly (molybdenum disulfide) because it will not work as well, and potentially could cause this problem all over again.
The grease you're looking for is something of a dark gray/black. Might look real shiny. That's what you want. The above Valvoline is a grease you can use, it is very dark gray and has moly in it, which Ford highly recommends that the grease contain moly for this application.
Good luck, hope all goes well with the project.
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Jeremy102579
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10-18-2006 10:00 PM