Rear shackles
Rear shackles
This is for John pretty much I guess. I was just doing some research on lifting my truck and I came across these. I think these in the back along with a 2in crank in the front with a camber kit wouldn't be such a bad 2in lift. I would rather do that than a bodylift I think. Unless someone wants to convince me otherwise. With about 2in of lift would I be able to clear 33s. That would make me happy.
-Luke
Oops...heres the link.....Sorry I was dumb
-Luke
Oops...heres the link.....Sorry I was dumb
Last edited by shadyluke; Apr 19, 2005 at 08:25 PM.
go for it. I dont like the idea of torsion cranks but with some moog upper arms you should be ok!!
should be able o clear 33s as well. maybe a TAD bit of rubbing depending on rims and/or 12.50inches wide or 10.50inches wide
should be able o clear 33s as well. maybe a TAD bit of rubbing depending on rims and/or 12.50inches wide or 10.50inches wide
I actually liked the look of Neils 33's. They were only 10.5 wide but didn't look bad. The upper arms should probably be done anyway since I think I need new upper ball joints. So while I'm in there, if I can afford it I may. I might have to give up paintballing this summer to save some money.
I know they say "2 in lift" but they look like the shackles I have which are about 2" longer than stock (slightly longer than that but not a lot). They actually give you a inch of resulting lift NOT 2 inches. Find out what length they are, then measure your stock ones. You'll get 1/2 the difference in length.
The reason is you're only pivoting your spring down on one side and your axle is 1/2 way between the fixed point and the shackle. This means the axle only moves 1/2 the distance the shackle end of the spring moved.
But, maybe they're longer than mine. Keep in mind that with a 4x4 and it's shorter rear driveshaft you MAY require pinion angle adjustment shims. Otherwise sometimes you end up with drivetrain vibration from the angle mismatch between the transfer case (or tranny in my case) and the pinion. 2WD are slightly more forgiving because of the longer driveshaft.
Also, beware with a 4WD doing too much cranking -- you have CV's up there that don't like operating at higher angles so much. This means you'll probably wear them out a bit faster -- or real fast if you crank all the way perhaps. Some guys are doing this and don't have problems (yet) so perhaps I'm being "alarmist" -- but it's worth mentioning for the sake of discussion.
The reason is you're only pivoting your spring down on one side and your axle is 1/2 way between the fixed point and the shackle. This means the axle only moves 1/2 the distance the shackle end of the spring moved.
But, maybe they're longer than mine. Keep in mind that with a 4x4 and it's shorter rear driveshaft you MAY require pinion angle adjustment shims. Otherwise sometimes you end up with drivetrain vibration from the angle mismatch between the transfer case (or tranny in my case) and the pinion. 2WD are slightly more forgiving because of the longer driveshaft.
Also, beware with a 4WD doing too much cranking -- you have CV's up there that don't like operating at higher angles so much. This means you'll probably wear them out a bit faster -- or real fast if you crank all the way perhaps. Some guys are doing this and don't have problems (yet) so perhaps I'm being "alarmist" -- but it's worth mentioning for the sake of discussion.
hmmm maybe a body lift would be better. I am trying to work on a budget. I don't want my truck huge. Like I don't need to turn 35s. I think 33s would be plenty big enough for me.....for now anyways.
I kinda wanted the truck to sit a lil higher too if I could. Do they make a 2in body lift for my truck. That way if I decided to run 31s or 32s it wouldn't look goofy but still had the room for a 33s
Here's one that has a 3" BL kit cut down to 2", cranked T-bars, running 33X12.50's:
http://www.cardomain.com/id/frfx4lii
http://www.cardomain.com/id/frfx4lii
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