Removing torsion bars -- tips? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 01-18-2005
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Removing torsion bars -- tips?

On an Explorer site, a solution to the t-bar sag problem (though not a permanent one) is to "re-index" the adjuster one-sixth turn on the bar and then reinstall the bar.

To do this, you need to remove the t-bar, then pull the adjuster piece off the frame end of the bar, and put it back on "one flat" off from where it was, then reinstall the bars.

However, they talk about a special tool to unload the adjuster, or using a gear puller. Does anyone have any experience with removing the t-bar and the adjuster end? I looked but I didn't find any stuff here on the board about it.

I am currently at full adjustment for my t-bars, and I want to get a bit more out of them before I have to get replacements.
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Old 01-18-2005
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I've never used one but I'm pretty sure you can rent them. And they are pretty striaght forward to use. But thats just from watching tv, no real world testing here.

What is said about getting a longer bolt?
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Old 01-18-2005
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Well, there isn't much more room to rotate the adjuster when the stock bolt is all the way in, from what I can see.

The method documented on the "SeriousExplorations" X forum says a 2 jaw gear puller works just as well. I'll give it a try. If this works okay, I'll let you all know. I'm not doing NUTHIN' until it warms up a bit. Not supposed to get out of the teens and the wind chill is nasty (about 10 below). I can do without that, thank you.
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Old 01-18-2005
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The factory service CD calls for a Remover/Installer, Torsion Bar
204-185 (T95T-5310-AR). You could probably use the jaw puller, but it may not line up right.

Hopefully you can rent them, since they are not cheap
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseprodu...l-OTC7816.HTML

** edit **
One thing that the manual says to watch out for:

CAUTION:The torsion bar adjustment bolt is coated with dry adhesive, and must be installed new if it is backed off or removed. Failure to do so can cause the adjustment bolt to loosen up during operation and a loss of vehicle alignment.

Last edited by SilverTank; 01-18-2005 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 01-18-2005
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Well you need to remove the bolt (I guess thats obvious...) then I use a 2 jaw gear puller and put it on the dimple on the torsion key and crank away. You will twist untill the little adjuster plate (What the bolt goes into before the key) is lose and can be removed from under the key. Then just losen the gear puller and pull the bar out. You have to be carful when using the gear puller, it will want to make itself horizontal because the spots where the gear "jaws" sit isnt level, so you have to keep a good grip on it. I hope this helps some or was even what you needed.
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Old 01-18-2005
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Okay, this is an interesting post on SeriousExplorations: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...ad.php?t=39469

Basically, you can tell your spring codes from the door pillar sticker under the SPR column. It's a two character field that indicates the spring rates front and back. First character is front, second is back.

Mine is: FK

The front torsion bar spring rates are arranged thusly, from stiffest to weakest:

1
2
B
D
E
F
K
L


So I have front bars that are second to weakest! Getting stronger bars should help a lot with sag, at the expense of additional stiffness. I'm thinking about finding a used set of "B" bars (which seem to be quite common) from an X in a junkyard somewhere.

What are you all seeing in that SPR field on your sticker?

Edit: And thanks all for the advice/information! I'm going to go the gear puller route because I'm cheap.
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Old 01-18-2005
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Good luck on useing those spring codes. When I was talking to the parts guy I asked for a "1" and he said he never heard of it. Then I asked about a "B" and he again said never heard of it. Then I asked about the "R6", spring code from my Ranger, and he quickly found the part. Let me know what you find out John, I'm curious now for my own knowledge since I went through so much trouble trying to figure this out before.
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Old 01-18-2005
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Gildo on GE has done it many of times, maybe try to contact him.
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Old 01-18-2005
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Parts guys don't use that code to find things as a rule. Other people have run into this as well. In the article I linked, they list the actual Ford part #'s for a few of the bars. The part #'s don't contain that spring code on the door frame -- that's just a handy short-had Ford uses to identify spring rate and not use the actual part #.

It's worth reading the article I linked!
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Old 01-18-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
The front torsion bar spring rates are arranged thusly, from stiffest to weakest:

1
2
B
D
E
F
K
L



What are you all seeing in that SPR field on your sticker?
I have #1 bars on my Level II which is almost the heaviest Ranger there is. The only way mine could be heavier would be if it was an automatic.

The 2002 S/M says that Rangers come with B, F or 1 bars. According to your list, it looks like that makes yours the lightest Ranger torsion bars available.
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Old 01-18-2005
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Thanks. That would help explain why the fatigued so fast. Also, I went pretty gonzo when the stock shocks were blown, and that stressed the bars more than it should have. The Rancho's should reduce the thrashing on the bars when I replace them.
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Old 01-18-2005
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I'v read the article, maybe I'll re-read it for the heck of it. I'm just sharing my experiance. The odd part that I found wasnt that he couldnt look up the spring codes, its that when he searched for a "1" in Explorer it came up with nothing but when I gave him the "R6" he found it in both a Ranger and Explorer. So yea... you know which way I went, so I dont know a whole whole lot about the T-Bar codes anymore.
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Old 01-18-2005
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If you're not concerned about ride quality, John, it sounds like the LII bars might be the hot ticket.
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Old 01-18-2005
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No, not too concerned. I think without the extra weight fo the 4WD components and the larger engine, I'm probably okay with the B's, which are common.
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Old 01-18-2005
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If this is even possible, you are going end up with less front end flex than you had when it was new. The front ends on these trucks are soo stiff, they hardly move out on the trail, even with the anti-sway bar out. Yet at the same time, they bottom out pretty easily.
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Old 01-18-2005
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So how do you explain that? If they have no flex to begin with, I lose nothing. And if they bottom out too easily, the B bar should improve that. From what you just said it would seem to be a benefit.

It is for sure possible because people are doing it.
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Old 01-18-2005
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t-bars suck, enough said.
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  #18  
Old 01-18-2005
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I am pretty sure my spring rates are the same as yours john...makes sense...both are 3.0 RWD Auto.
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Old 01-18-2005
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Yah. Just look at your door pillar and you should also have FK which basically means...nevermind...
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Old 01-18-2005
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I'm an FC.
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  #21  
Old 01-19-2005
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I just checked mine.. it says 1K.. so does taht mean my front is ok, but the back are crap?
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Old 01-19-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strider0O0
I just checked mine.. it says 1K.. so does taht mean my front is ok, but the back are crap?
The spring rates are computer selected on the assembly line to match the truck model you have plus the options that are on it. Going by John's table, you have the highest rate torsion bars. The rear springs are on a different scale from the torsion bars, so you can't really draw any conclusions there. Do your rear springs do the job? That's what is important.
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Old 01-19-2005
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No, it just means you got very stiff fronts. Hmmmm...I need to think if I can use 1's after all....
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Old 01-19-2005
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Example:

Available 2002 Ranger torsion bars: 1, B, F
Available 2002 Ranger leaf springs: 3,7,C,K,N

Notice that some of the rear leaf springs are not on the torsion bar table. The leaf springs have a table of their own.
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  #25  
Old 01-19-2005
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Correct. But I'm not concerned with the rears so I didn't post it.
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