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Old 11-06-2015
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Shackle mount / Spring hanger

So my truck is falling into the typical things that break on these. Last week was thermostat housing and now the right rear shackle mount is broken / rusted to dust. I was thinking of pulling the bed off to make grinding the rivits out easier. I could clean & paint the frame as well as install new rear shocks that it desperately needs. My question. What's a good quality shackle mount to get? I don't want to do this again. Any thing else I should do if I go this route?

Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2015
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Yes, remove the bed.
You also need a torch to burn out the rubber bushings, I just used a hand propane torch, but definitely remove bed for that part or run water in the bed as it will get VERY HOT and blister the paint.

I used Dorman parts on my '94
I also used Navel Jelly and wire brush on rusted areas a few times before repainting and then installed hangers and shackles, but I had a few days to do it.
Rust is Oxidation same chemical reaction as fire, although alot slower, lol, so leaving any rust is like leaving a simmering fire.
Reason paint stops/slows rusting is it prevents oxygen from contacting the metal, painting over rust will just allow the "fire" to continue "burning" which first removes the paint fairly fast then oxygen gets in and it starts to spread again.
Navel Jelly, or similar products, changes the rust it comes in to contact with, into an inert substance that can hold primer and paint.
Primer is a type of paint that can hold onto metal better, but is not very resistant water, sunlight or other environment elements, regular paint is better to resist environment elements but can't hold on to metal very well but can hold onto primer, so prime and then paint is best.

My 1994 Rangers fuel pump is original and still working fine, knock on wood, but I would check your connections and wiring.

Last edited by RonD; 11-06-2015 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 11-06-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Yes, remove the bed.
You also need a torch to burn out the rubber bushings, I just used a hand propane torch, but definitely remove bed for that part or run water in the bed as it will get VERY HOT and blister the paint.

I used Dorman parts on my '94
I also used Navel Jelly and wire brush on rusted areas a few times before repainting and then installed hangers and shackles, but I had a few days to do it.

My 1994 Rangers fuel pump is original and still working fine, knock on wood, but I would check your connections and wiring.
What is navel jelly? I would imagine it will take me a few days to get it all done. I'll probably only be able to bribe my friends to help get the bed on and off.

What bushings did you burn out? Where the leaf spring attaches to the shackle itself?

Good call on the fuel pump check. I didn't think of that one.

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Old 11-06-2015
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I answered my own question about Naval Jelly.
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Old 11-06-2015
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Yes the bushing in the spring often can't be pounded out intact, not that you want to save it, lol.

Google: removing leaf spring bushings

It isn't model specific, they are all a bitch

Cut a 2x4, 4x4 to put between spring and frame so spring doesn't move while you go at it.

The bolt usually comes out but I have cut of the head before to pound it through.
"if your only tool is a hammer then all problems look like nails", lol.
Well once you have the grinder out it is often easier to grind off the shaft/head of the bolt than trying to get locking nut all the way off 20 year old threads

Don't forget tail light wiring :)

Last edited by RonD; 11-06-2015 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 11-10-2015
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RonD how long have you had the Dorman's on? Are they holding up to salt? Hell, I don't know if you guys use salt in BC.

I'm trying to figure out which brand to buy. Dorman is available everywhere. I can get Ford replacements for twice as much and Husky Spring brand for somewhere in between.

Thoughts?
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Old 11-10-2015
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No salt here.
Originals lasted almost 20 years.

undercoating is about the best you can do on current rust free parts
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Old 11-12-2015
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In my research I've seen a number of guys replacing the rear springs. What's the typical life of leaf springs? I do use my truck to haul / tow often. The rear of the truck doesn't look like it sags...
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Old 11-12-2015
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Hey Matt, Batavia is that NY state? We have the same problem ovah heah in Maine,our cahs just die young 'cause of rust. I just had to replace the whole frame on my '94 4x4 from the cab back. I used frame parts from 3 trucks to make one good one still had to make x-members from 1\8 steel channel. I had FoMoCo replacement shackles on 1 of my parts frames I sandblasted them painted with epoxy primer then 3-4 coats of black frame paint. If you want to spend the money have your shackles powder coated. RonD is right as always Dorman stuff is good as OE cheaper too. Use pro autobody refinish products they last longest go to TP Tools & Equipment they are in Ohio sell quality auto refinishing stuff at a decent price. Naval Jelly RonD? wow I haven't seen that stuff in 30 years lol! still works though.
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Old 11-12-2015
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Nope, I'm in the Ohio version of Batavia. I'll check out TP tools. At this point I was planning on cleaning rust off and using a undercoating of some sort on the new parts.

If I had frame problems like you just described I would probably just part the truck out and go buy something newer. I hate rust. It makes everything twice as hard.
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Old 11-12-2015
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You have to really abuse leaf springs to break them, hauling gravel all the time can do it, lol.
I would just leave them original, they will last the life of the truck.
Often people replace them to change ride height.

Home depot sells Loctite "naval jelly"
Yes, it is still around
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Old 11-13-2015
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RonD - That makes more sense to me. And, yeah, no gravel in the bed of my truck. That's what the dump trailer is for.
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Old 11-14-2015
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Look up ATS spring in Souderton PA

They sell QUALITY sing hangers and shackles.(with ALL new grade 8 hardware to mount the hangers and attach the springs)

They also sell all sorts of leaf springs
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2015
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Old Mount:
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Rust Treatment Applied:
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Painted. As you can see it's a little wet still.

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No pics of the new parts on yet. I still have to put on the new shocks and treat the rust on the bed seem before I put the bed back on. Hopefully have it all buttoned up Sunday if the weather holds. New tires next week and it should drive much better.
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Old 11-21-2015
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Looks pretty good. Pay special attention to where the rear section of the frame is spliced together
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Old 11-23-2015
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I ran out of time this weekend and the bed is still not on the truck. So I was going to get another can of paint on the way home from work and hit a few touch up a few areas. I will double check the where the sections meet when I'm doing that. The frame itself is in pretty good shape. It was 99% surface rust.

All the new shocks are on and I've sanded most of the rust off the bed seem. Next on the list is front brakes. One side was 50% and the drivers side... 10%. Seems I have an issue.
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