Stiffening 4WD without lifting *LONG: HELP*
 

Yes, Im new to this group, but not new to the Ranger. Your help is appreciated.

Basically, what I want to do is stiffen the front suspension without lifting it. My 4wd, as you know, has the strong but limited torsion bar springs. Ive cranked up the front one inch on the stock bars and do not want to raise it anymore. HOWEVER, I want to stiffen the front substantially. My initial thought is using coilovers. Ive looked at some kits, IE RCD, and they cost too much and also lift 4-5". I don't mind welding. My truck is used offroad a lot, but does not crawl ever. Rock crawling guys- please know I don't need articulation.

So, my question to you guys is: Has anyone tried using the stock lower control arms with coilovers in place of shocks? If so, did you also weld in an aftermarket top shock mount? Did you weld in different lower shock pivots?

For the rear, I plan on removing the factory block to lower about 1" which should level the truck out nicely.

the factory block is 2" so it will lower the back 2" by removing it

okay, note taken on the block. I actually have a 1" block laying around if its too low. thanks for the info.

still need the top info.

Ok, I have not tried it, but technically, I think it would work.

I would love to know (even though I am of no help right now).


You would just remove the torsion bar and run a coil spring.




But I will tell you, I don't think your going to get a stiffer ride out of coil overs. I have es9000 pro comp shocks, they stiffened up my front a LOT

check your door jam and see if you have #1 rated torsion bars if you dont then buy a pair and crank them a little and put some stiff shocks in it and it should stiff it up a bit

I will check on the number of the bars. And trust me, you can get extremely stiff coilovers, while still keep reasonable suspension travel.

id look into getting some Stock LVL 2 bilsteins they firm up the ride alot.

SPR- number is 11K. So they are Number 1 bars- and they still arent stiff enough. Does anyone have the spring rates for the various bars?

How stiff are you looking for, I have the 1 bars and Bilstein Shocks on my LVL 2 and its pretty stiff.

heh. well, I am wanting it fairly stiff. Say.... WRC stiff. I drive my truck fast on any surface, and need it to handle better on hard surfaces. I admit that the back spring rate is perfect, but the front is simply too soft as it bounces up and down at high speed (*spare me the going fast lecture.) Thanks for the help. it appears that I am going to have to use coilovers. anyone done the conversion without buying the RCD kit?

This guy did a coilover conversion on his edge, but he lowered it in the process. Although I'm sure you could just get a longer coilover to keep stock height. I am sure it will be a bit more difficult on a 4wd because you'll have to worry about the coilover having room to clear the halfshafts and more than likely you'll have to find a "stilt" type coilover like RCD used.

http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/236779/3


Here is the post on RPS about it.

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for...ight=coilovers

YES. That is exactly what I was thinking about. I will try to get some measurements. I believe clearing the axles will be the main concern. Who sells stilt coilovers besides RCD?

THE END RESULT: I went ahead and looked closer at a few things. For the next 6 months or so, I am going to keep my stock t-bar setup and install stiffer shocks- most likely es9000. Bottom line is that you can install coilovers in place of the factory shocks and completely ditch the torsion bar setup. However, while looking at my truck today I noticed a few things. Below are the key points to address if you want to do this conversion.

1-Weld reinforcements to the upper shock mounts. Small gussets on the backside and front side would work fine.
2-Purchase a set of "Stilt" coilovers with a spring rate of your choice. The lowering crowd uses 500lb springs. I was going to use them also on my stock height 4wd.
3-Buy and install a shock/coilover adapter on the lower control arm to eliminate the bar pin. QA1 sells coilovers that use the top stud type mount and a conventional bearing (hole) on the bottom, but I haven't found one that will clear the axle yet.
4-Depending on your lift/height you will need to check the clearance between the upper control arm and the coilover at full extension. I sell that some people just use spacers to move the upper CA further out. I'm not sure about reliability, but it should work.

If I missed anything, let me know.