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Wheel Bearing Install Procedure

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Old 10-12-2008
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Wheel Bearing Install Procedure

I am going to replace, for a 3rd time in about a year, my front wheel bearings on my '97 2X soon.

I am going to replace my old rotors and the bearings at the same time. I am thinking the old, worn and possibly warped rotors, may be part of my problem. The other part is that I am not really sure of the proper procedure for tightening the rotor.

Could someone please give me a step-by-step of torquing the rotors?

Thanks
Ryan
 
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Old 10-12-2008
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Originally Posted by Tsuriman
I am going to replace, for a 3rd time in about a year, my front wheel bearings on my '97 2X soon.

I am going to replace my old rotors and the bearings at the same time. I am thinking the old, worn and possibly warped rotors, may be part of my problem. The other part is that I am not really sure of the proper procedure for tightening the rotor.

Could someone please give me a step-by-step of torquing the rotors?

Thanks
Ryan
ok i have done this so many times and btw you don't torque the rotor you seat the bearings. First when taking everything off you need to make sure you not only have the new bearings and the grease for them you need to have new grease seals and make sure your races inside you rotor are ok. If not you need ot drive them out and put the ones that come with you new bearings in. So when putting on the rotor with the new grease seal and inner bearing installed you put it back on the spindle and slide the outer bearing on all the way till its holding up the rotor. Now you put the nut back on with the tapered side out and flat side towards the rotor, then torque that nut to 30-35 ft-lbs and spin the rotor a few times like 15-20 times and seat the new bearings after you have done that back the nut off one face. And put the protector back over the nut and put a new cotter pin in and your good to go. Repeat the same process on the other side. I have done all this to my truck twice and to customer cars several times. So have fun wear eye protection and check some other stuff while your up under there!
 
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Old 10-13-2008
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Originally Posted by Shaklakan
Now you put the nut back on with the tapered side out and flat side towards the rotor, then torque that nut to 30-35 ft-lbs and spin the rotor a few times like 15-20 times and seat the new bearings after you have done that back the nut off one face.
Thanks, one more thing.
I have asked around, googled and all I can find is that "one face" can be 1/4 turn or a 1/3 or even 1/8 turn.
What is one face?
 
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Old 10-14-2008
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I find that those specs in the books for tightening a bearing are BS. They are always installed too loose. I find the best way is about 1/8 - 1/4 turn more than hand tight (hand tight meaning socket in hand, no ratchet, just socket). Drive for a while and then take off the dust cap and double check em. I went through 3 sets in the past 10k km's cause I never put em on tight enough. I just did a 2000km trip and they are still tight.

And don't skimp on cheap grease. I went through a set cause the grease the shop sold me liquified when it got hot, as it will cause the bearings are inside your rotor which gets hot from braking. I use the lucas xtra heavy duty bearing grease (green, comes in a container for about $5)
 
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Don't over tighten the nut for the rotors dude, just put it on snug then put the washer and cotter pin in.. you would be fine
 
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Old 10-14-2008
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Originally Posted by xXcecinestpasXx86
Don't over tighten the nut for the rotors dude, just put it on snug then put the washer and cotter pin in.. you would be fine
Yeah definitely don't over tighten the nut. You wanna have just a slight amount of play in your bearings or you could damage them.
 
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