t-bar crank: conflicting steps found
#28
07-30-2006
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
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Im going to explain it in steps:
1. lift it onto jack stands
2. find the grade 8 bolt that loosens/tightens[lowers/lifts] the front end
3. turn bolt 4-5 times to the right as if you were tightening it
4. 4-5 turns is around 1.5-2.0 inches of lift..
you dont want to lift it more then 2.5" [7-8 turns] or the alignmnent and ride quality will be messed up.
1. lift it onto jack stands
2. find the grade 8 bolt that loosens/tightens[lowers/lifts] the front end
3. turn bolt 4-5 times to the right as if you were tightening it
4. 4-5 turns is around 1.5-2.0 inches of lift..
you dont want to lift it more then 2.5" [7-8 turns] or the alignmnent and ride quality will be messed up.
#29
07-30-2006
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
static and nutral are key words when working on any suspension.
with that in mind remember all the bushings are rubber, and will not go to a nutral state when changing ride height. thus binding the balljoint(s). you should loosen the upper arm bolts at the frame when making any ride height adjustments, so the bushings can go static and not bind.
there is one other way to get around this, go with polly bushings. they are static in any possestion.
oh dont forget to tighten them after the adjustment.
and you want to do this with the tires on and the truck on the ground.
with that in mind remember all the bushings are rubber, and will not go to a nutral state when changing ride height. thus binding the balljoint(s). you should loosen the upper arm bolts at the frame when making any ride height adjustments, so the bushings can go static and not bind.
there is one other way to get around this, go with polly bushings. they are static in any possestion.
oh dont forget to tighten them after the adjustment.
and you want to do this with the tires on and the truck on the ground.
#30
07-30-2006
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#32
07-30-2006
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#33
09-10-2006
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#34
09-10-2006
#35
09-13-2006
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#36
09-13-2006
#37
09-14-2006
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#38
11-06-2006
IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cranked my t-bars about 2 months ago and now something is wrong in front. A cracking noise is coming from the steering wheel. I took it into the dealer and they said the tie rods are loose and need to be repalced because of the angle of the lift. So my suggestion is to get aftermarket tie rods to prevent this it will save you 462.75$. Trust me
#40
11-06-2006
#41
06-04-2007
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#42
06-04-2007
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