T-bar crank dissapointment - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 05-16-2011
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T-bar crank dissapointment

I've got a 2006 Fx4 (not L-II) with about 54000 miles and tonight I cranked the torsion bars. I was hoping for a bit more, but all I could really manage was 1.5" from the front end. I'm running 265/75R16s.

Now I don't know what to do. The drivers side adjuster is about one turn from bottomed out (which I don't really care anyways, but it may become an issue later). I've got a set of shackles for the back, but I don't know if i should install them, since I'm barely level as it is.

Should I do the shackles anyway?

I guess I'll need new torsion bars if I want any more for ride height from them...

I'm really dissapointed with these torsion bars! I think they must be "C"s. UGH!
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Old 05-16-2011
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whats your spring code in the door jam.
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Old 05-17-2011
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Your not supposed to go more than about 1.5" anyway, its hell on the CV's.
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Old 05-17-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04RangerDave View Post
whats your spring code in the door jam.
"BBCC" is what it says, but I don't know which is which...

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Originally Posted by legoms013 View Post
Your not supposed to go more than about 1.5" anyway, its hell on the CV's.
I was planning on 1.5 to 2", hoping for the high side, like I said it's still really not level as is. I think it would have lived comfortable enough at 2", I don't put on many miles. Oh well...!
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Old 05-17-2011
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i was hoping for more as well but i am content with my amount of lift.
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Old 05-17-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big-blue-oval View Post
"BBCC" is what it says, but I don't know which is which...
BB is medium rate torsion bars; CC is the highest rate leaf packs.

New number 1 bars would allow the front end to be cranked higher but that has consequences.


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Originally Posted by big-blue-oval View Post
I was planning on 1.5 to 2", hoping for the high side, like I said it's still really not level as is. I think it would have lived comfortable enough at 2", I don't put on many miles. Oh well...!
Cranking torsion bars is not the same as a true lift. It simply repositions the static height of the front end within the available travel, compromising the factory design.

Anything more than about an inch above stock substantially increases wear on tires, shocks, ball joints and CV's.

Maxed bars would need a realignment of the front suspension to prevent severe wear to the insides of the tires. The alignment can't come close to correcting the geometry completely but it can reduce the static negative camber that raised SLA suspension causes.

Going anywhere near the max beats the hell out of the front shocks because they serve as the rebound travel limiters. The repositioned static height causes the suspension to hammer the rebound limit far more often than it did at the factory setting and that kills the ride quality. It also shortens shock life and in extreme cases has even pulled the shock apart.

All automotive springs, including torsion bars, "sag" with time and use. The higher the torsion bars are cranked, the faster they will sag - a self-defeating process. This spring deterioration is accelerated if the truck sees any off road use.

So, if you like to spend time and money replacing parts, cranking the suspension all the way up will get you there.
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Old 05-17-2011
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It's a vicious cycle huh? Yeah, I know what jacking them right up does, but I don't think the front end of mine is very extreme. I'll post a pic later and let you guys see.
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Old 05-17-2011
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Had the alignment checked today, and it was perfect, no adjustment needed.
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Old 05-17-2011
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If you had been able to max it out like you wanted to, the camber and possibly the toe-in would have been off.
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Old 05-17-2011
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Well it must be good then, 'cause it's not gonna get any better!
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