D44 HighSteer Arms
#1
D44 HighSteer Arms
I am wanting to get my high steer arms so that i can have the knuckles drilled before i put it on the axle for the first time. A few questions
Is there an advantage to having a longer arm? If I got one with double holes it would be longer which i would think that would make it steer easier...
Or doesnt it matter and i can just get a short style and continue to put the tie rod in the stock location...
Is there an advantage to having a longer arm? If I got one with double holes it would be longer which i would think that would make it steer easier...
Or doesnt it matter and i can just get a short style and continue to put the tie rod in the stock location...
#2
#3
I am going to take my panhard mount will be on the outside of the coil mount. I have a picture of an example but ill have to find it when i get home.
i dont want to use the drag link into the tie rod because i constantly have issues with my current setup and it turning/twisting the tie rod.
i dont want to use the drag link into the tie rod because i constantly have issues with my current setup and it turning/twisting the tie rod.
#4
Originally Posted by zabeard
I am going to take my panhard mount will be on the outside of the coil mount. I have a picture of an example but ill have to find it when i get home.
i dont want to use the drag link into the tie rod because i constantly have issues with my current setup and it turning/twisting the tie rod.
i dont want to use the drag link into the tie rod because i constantly have issues with my current setup and it turning/twisting the tie rod.
#5
#6
I don't have to deal with a panhard, but I prefere having the drag link connect to the steering arm rather than the tie rod. it would seem to give much more control of the steering due to the physics, as you are in control of a fixed point as opposed to pushing/pulling in between two points, with less leverage (hope that made sense).
There's parts mike highsteer arms as one option, as well as some available through http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/
There's parts mike highsteer arms as one option, as well as some available through http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/
#9
Originally Posted by Yomie
get a 2 hole for the pass side and a 1 hole on the drivers side (or you can get 2 2holes)
Run the draglink to the pass side forward hole and run the tierod to the 2 rear holes.
Run the draglink to the pass side forward hole and run the tierod to the 2 rear holes.
#10
#11
Originally Posted by Yomie
get a 2 hole for the pass side and a 1 hole on the drivers side (or you can get 2 2holes)
Run the draglink to the pass side forward hole and run the tierod to the 2 rear holes.
Run the draglink to the pass side forward hole and run the tierod to the 2 rear holes.
i figured that but does it make it steer easier because its further out from the pivot point?
#12
Originally Posted by zabeard
as it twist that is inacuracy in the steering or delay. at least i think it seems that way. i would also think it wears the TRE out faster. if you try to turn the wheel real hard it will break the JAM nuts loose as well and trust me i tighten those suckers down tight.
#13
#14
#15
you are not going to gain any increase in steering with long (2 hole) arms, the outer most hole is the same distance from the balljoint than the stock knuckle hole.
I don't see any problem matching the trac bar with the draglink with a full high steer setup. drop the trac bar mount on the frame side and curve the trac bar over the diff.
Running your drag link to a 'short' arm, or inner hole will cause your knuckles to turn farther than factory specs (assuming you are using some sort of stock steering box) and the axle shaft ears and u-joints to bind causing you to rip off a knuckle. The outer hole is designed for 8" of movement and the inner hole is 6", most steering boxes move 8".
do you see what i'm getting at
I don't see any problem matching the trac bar with the draglink with a full high steer setup. drop the trac bar mount on the frame side and curve the trac bar over the diff.
Running your drag link to a 'short' arm, or inner hole will cause your knuckles to turn farther than factory specs (assuming you are using some sort of stock steering box) and the axle shaft ears and u-joints to bind causing you to rip off a knuckle. The outer hole is designed for 8" of movement and the inner hole is 6", most steering boxes move 8".
do you see what i'm getting at
#16
Originally Posted by Yomie
you are not going to gain any increase in steering with long (2 hole) arms, the outer most hole is the same distance from the balljoint than the stock knuckle hole.
I don't see any problem matching the trac bar with the draglink with a full high steer setup. drop the trac bar mount on the frame side and curve the trac bar over the diff.
Running your drag link to a 'short' arm, or inner hole will cause your knuckles to turn farther than factory specs (assuming you are using some sort of stock steering box) and the axle shaft ears and u-joints to bind causing you to rip off a knuckle. The outer hole is designed for 8" of movement and the inner hole is 6", most steering boxes move 8".
do you see what i'm getting at
I don't see any problem matching the trac bar with the draglink with a full high steer setup. drop the trac bar mount on the frame side and curve the trac bar over the diff.
Running your drag link to a 'short' arm, or inner hole will cause your knuckles to turn farther than factory specs (assuming you are using some sort of stock steering box) and the axle shaft ears and u-joints to bind causing you to rip off a knuckle. The outer hole is designed for 8" of movement and the inner hole is 6", most steering boxes move 8".
do you see what i'm getting at
its physically impossible to get your panhard to be in the proper position with the two hole system, as you cant mount the panhard off the axle. And steering stops were made adjustable for a reason.
#17
does it really matter if its not the same? i mean i have seen a bunch of setups and if the angle is the same and it should swing in the same arc. if you look at jeeps the pitman arm and the frame mount of the panhard do not line up.
I think I am going to give it a shot, if it fails its just a matter of buying that one TRE with the Drag link hole and a shorter tie rod and drag link.
I was out measuring some stuff and I need to have the longer one otherwise there is no way it will fit, since that is the case I am going to get the Parts Mike ones.
also are there any wheel clearance issues with the longer ones? i would assume not because Yomie mentioned its the same length as stock.
I think I am going to give it a shot, if it fails its just a matter of buying that one TRE with the Drag link hole and a shorter tie rod and drag link.
I was out measuring some stuff and I need to have the longer one otherwise there is no way it will fit, since that is the case I am going to get the Parts Mike ones.
also are there any wheel clearance issues with the longer ones? i would assume not because Yomie mentioned its the same length as stock.
#18
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
And steering stops were made adjustable for a reason.
Originally Posted by redranger4.0
its physically impossible to get your panhard to be in the proper position with the two hole system, as you cant mount the panhard off the axle.
#19
Originally Posted by Yomie
Alright smart ***, go ahead and mount your draglink on the inner hole of the high steer arm, when your steering box turns a full 8" stroke and the arm will only go 6" see what happens, especially with hydro assist.
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06-26-2006 09:05 PM