What helps WARLORD/THUMPER clear the 36" tires is the flared/preunner fenders on the front. The rear will clear fine without flared fenders.

 

here is the answer to your question; TTB is better for off roaring while SLA is better for on road driving.

 

Here is some pictures of my '97 with a 6" suspension lift and a 3" body lift running 35x12.50x15's on 15x10 wheels.

 

Not exactly, it helps, but he never comes close to them when flexing, in fact the fiberglass fenders are so cracked on them he's about to take them off and go back to his stockers, or at least thats what he said on China Wall in April...


It's hard to see, but he's still a fair distance from those fenders. Stock, he'll be fine too



Point I tried to make is this, Running 38's on a Ranger, especially with that D35 and 8.8, is the stock shafts will explode, and to prevent that, you have to dump serious money into making it worth while.

What I also tired to imply with TTB, Maurice, is this, it IS a IFS setup, blu if you study it vs a SLA, it's closer related to a Solid axle, than the SLA in the operation, and so forth. I may have SLA now, but I had TTB for 2 years PRIOR to my SLA, so I'm WELL versed in it and it's operation.

 

its common knowledge that the boundries for the TTB susp is 36's and even at that size if u dont do a few known tricks u will grenade shafts left and right.

TTB is a much stronger system for lifting the that of the IFS of the later trucks.

also, on a truck like maurice had, had he not had a stock front bumper and the proper width wheels then he woulda not rubbed at all running 35s. standard rule of thumb for tires is 4" narrower rims, then the tires u plan to be running, ESPECIALLY if u plan to take it offroad...

and thats all i gotta say about that

 

Thus why I didn't have 8" wide wheels; 10" wide wheels on a 12.50 wide tire is NOT good for off roading.

The best mod to do to the TTB's is the full snap ring u-joints.

Also, I believe that someone like Superior Axle has come out with chrome-o outter shafts for the TTB. That will reduce the chance of blowing an outter shift (the weaker shift of the bunch).

Another good mod to the TTB is to widen the area in the beam where the axle shaft goes through. That will allow more flex since the axle shaft wont be hitting the beam as early.

Another good mod to the TTB is to eliminate the c-clip inside the diff by using a spring where the 2 passanger side shafts come together.

Another mod to the Dana 35 TTB that should be done if you plan on hard core off roading is swapping in the Dana 44 TTB outters. That will give you the larger knuckles, brakes, bearings, and lock outs.

 

http://www.prerunnermaniac.com/Preru...us-I-Beams.php

Of course, for dessert running you want IFS because of the terrain. For crawling and hardcore trail riding articulation is key. SFA will articulate well but provide a poor ride. TTB wont articulate well but will provide decent ride quality. True IFS is the only way to go for people like me who feel deserts/beaches were made for driving on...woods were made for walking in.