Torsion Bar Blues
#1
Torsion Bar Blues
ok so i "cranked" my bars four full turns today. No increase in height(i think). I measured from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender and from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender. I cranked the passenger side exactly four turns. Then I measured both sides, it looked like the pass. side sat higher but couldn't tell for sure. So I put it back to stock and re-measured, same deal. Maybe it was because I didn't have it jacked up.
Another funny thing I noticed was that my driver side seemed like it had about an inch less threads on the bolt, like it had been previously cranked.
Now it has a slight drift to the right too. I don't wanna get it aligned til I've got this lift situation figured out. BTW where can you get a lifetime alignment ?
So call me a dummy, but I'm stumped.
Another funny thing I noticed was that my driver side seemed like it had about an inch less threads on the bolt, like it had been previously cranked.
Now it has a slight drift to the right too. I don't wanna get it aligned til I've got this lift situation figured out. BTW where can you get a lifetime alignment ?
So call me a dummy, but I'm stumped.
#2
#5
Originally Posted by l2en
so by cranking them four times w/o lifting the truck off the ground did nothing?
#9
Originally Posted by a311fanam
4 turns gave my truck 1.5" of lift, but it's sagged atleast 1/2" since last year
#11
#12
Originally Posted by Rand
Also the bolts have (or had) pressure sensative threadlocker.. so since you tightened
and loosened then retightened you might want to consider using new bolts or another
type of threadlocker..(not sure how important this is)
and loosened then retightened you might want to consider using new bolts or another
type of threadlocker..(not sure how important this is)
Replacing the bolts is a bit dangerous because you don't have a starting point from which to count turns. This can easily let the adjustment get uneven from side to side. And, as we all know, the bolt position looks very different right-to-left, even on new trucks. So you can't even guess by comparing the two sides.
In situations like this, where disassembly is impractical, it is possible to use green Loctite 290, AKA "Wick'n'Lock" or "Wick-in". It is a special threadlocker that wicks in and penetrates the gaps in assembled threads, making it unnecessary to remove the fasteners.
#13
Unregistered User
Posts: n/a
The same to adversing pressure on the torsion bars.. Ive changed 2 NEW sets out in the last year.
I'm no metalurgist or chemist, but I think the torsion bars are like a piece of licorish (sp?) . Going over or UNDER the specific amount of pressure thats factory spec on them will have an adverse effect.
I'm no metalurgist or chemist, but I think the torsion bars are like a piece of licorish (sp?) . Going over or UNDER the specific amount of pressure thats factory spec on them will have an adverse effect.
#14
#15
Originally Posted by a311fanam
I cranked my torsion bars becasue i noticed they were sagging from the factory stock height. You could clearly see that it was constantly hitting the bump stop. If i were to replace them with 1 or B bars, would it not sag as much considering I have the weakest F bars?
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