What kind of shocks do ya'll recommend? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 01-30-2008
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Icon5 What kind of shocks do ya'll recommend?

Ok I have discovered that my shocks in the back end are worn out. I don't know when the last time they were replaced since I bought the truck used in the Summer of '05 and my truck is a 99 4x4. I go offroading but not as much as I drive as I am a college student. I also haul stuff with my truck. Sometimes very heavy loads but not on an everyday scale. I also tow a trailer with my truck every so often.

Which brand of shocks would ya'll recommend?
Any opinions and/or advice is much appreciated.
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Old 01-30-2008
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most will say bilstein...so id recommend them...never heard anything bad
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Old 01-30-2008
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Since you do some towing and hauling, I'd suggest KYB MonoMax's. I have em on my '99 4x4 and I love em. They are stiff as all git out, but they were designed that way to compensate for towing, hauling, bodyroll, and nose-dive while braking. You cant find a Bilstein that has the dampening rate of the MonoMax. Read this thread, its a short summary of the difference between monotube and twin-tube shocks.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=51450
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Old 01-30-2008
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Currently when going over a bump at speeds over 45, my backend kinda feels like it's not under me, more like it has no traction, will the KYB's help to solve that?? Or is that kinda one of the reasons why I need new shocks? And about how much am I looking at price wise and where can they be bought?? Again, college student so funds are tight, but my baby needs new shocks....take care of my truck and it'll take care of me.
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Old 01-30-2008
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Lol, buddy it sounds like ur factory shocks has seen its better days. And yes, MonoMax's will solve that. Best place to find em at a reasonable price is Ebay or Summit. KYB offers 2 lines of MonoTube shocks, the MonoMax and the Gas-A-Just.
Part numbers for the MonoMax's (for a '99 4x4)
front:561001
rear:565063
Part numbers for the Gas-A-Just
front:KG54309
rear:KG5493
The differences are the dampening rate and the size of the working piston. MonoMax's have a 47-48mm bore and the Gas-A-Just has a 40-41mm bore. The Gas-A-Just has the same dampening rate as the most common bilstien.
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Old 01-30-2008
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I'm kinda new at replacing stock components on my own.... But that's why I consult ya'll so I get pointed in the right direction!

I just searched for them on Summit and I found them. Ok you recommended MonoMax first so I'm taking it that's the ones you think will be the best for my application.

So will I need to go to a professional to get these puppies installed or tackle the beasties on my own? Which I can tell your the later kinda guy..... :)
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Old 01-30-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerJustin View Post
most will say bilstein...so id recommend them...never heard anything bad
I recommend Bilstein, when I got mine I was amazed at what they done to the handling. They took some of that "no rear axle" feeling.
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Old 01-30-2008
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I've heard of Blisten and alot of people with bigger trucks use them where I'm from. What are the differences between the two? I also read 4x4offroad99's post and I saw the image of the cut out's to reveal the inside of the tubes. Like I said I'm a noob when it comes to picking my own choice of parts to install on my truck. Hadn't really had it long enough or got the money to be buying a lot of extra non-stock components. I'm not picking just yet, listening to and comparing products mostly right now.

Are Blisten's good for my scenerio? I guess it's mostly choice, why did you pick Blisten's Karr?
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Old 01-30-2008
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You can do it yourself, its not hard at all. On a scale from one to ten, id say its a 4. Just to let ya know, it took every bit of my 150 lbs to compress one of those bad boys, so id suggest have someone help ya.
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Old 01-30-2008
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Wow I'm gonna need some help from one of my guy friends... I'm a light weight but I'm stout.

Do you have a Installing shocks DIY guide I could follow? I Have never messed with something like this before.... I know I'm lame.

What tools do you recommend in removing the old ones??
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Old 01-30-2008
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how do the monomax's perform on the road? im going to be do no offroading and haul a load maybe twice a year so i want the best possible road performance.... ive heard that they are stiffer than most to hold up offroad... is this true?
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Old 01-30-2008
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YOUR SO LAME!!! Lol just kiddin girl...
I cant remember what size the bolts are, but for the rear ones, a 1/2 in. drive ratchet will do wonders. For the front, you may need a set of vice-grips to hold the shaft of the shock to git that top nut off. Other than that, its straight forward. You can look and see what needs to be taken off in order to install em. Oh yeah, when you get to the front, install the top first. Once you done that, just compress that bad boy and put the bottom of the shock in the slot on the lower control arm. Once you get it in there, its very easy to line the bolts up.

Last edited by 4x4offroad99; 01-30-2008 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 01-30-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtslmn720 View Post
how do the monomax's perform on the road? im going to be do no offroading and haul a load maybe twice a year so i want the best possible road performance.... ive heard that they are stiffer than most to hold up offroad... is this true?
On the road, i aint gonna lie. They are STIFF!! But, going around corners, and hittin the brakes, there is hardly and body roll or nose dive. Great for towing or hauling. You cant even tell you have anything in the bed. If you dont do too much offroading or hauling/towing, i'd suggest the Gas-A-Just. Still a mono-tube shock, just 35-40% less dampening rate.
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Old 01-31-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyRanger13 View Post
I'm kinda new at replacing stock components on my own.... But that's why I consult ya'll so I get pointed in the right direction!

I just searched for them on Summit and I found them. Ok you recommended MonoMax first so I'm taking it that's the ones you think will be the best for my application.

So will I need to go to a professional to get these puppies installed or tackle the beasties on my own? Which I can tell your the later kinda guy..... :)


Tell ya what buddy.. give me a short minute and I'll go snap a picture of my shocks that just came in.. one moment :-)

Oh, and I can do a step by step for ya tommorow as well, I am (hopefully) plannign to get up early enough before work to get them installed.


EDIT: There ya go.. KYB MonoMax fresh from the box.. I can snap some shots of a before and after whenever I get around to putting them on.. hopefully tomorrow morning as work allows me to.



Last edited by WowMike2001; 01-31-2008 at 02:37 AM.
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  #15  
Old 01-31-2008
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I know I am 4x4....

But like I said that's why I am a member of Ranger-Forums! So you guys can give me some advice! :)

Thanks for the pics WowMike. Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially pics since I'm a visual kinda person.

Ahhhh...I love the sweet scent of fresh truck components in the morning!
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  #16  
Old 02-01-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyRanger13 View Post
I know I am 4x4....

But like I said that's why I am a member of Ranger-Forums! So you guys can give me some advice! :)

Thanks for the pics WowMike. Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially pics since I'm a visual kinda person.

Ahhhh...I love the sweet scent of fresh truck components in the morning!


I go tthem all on this morning... it took me longer to gather my misc tools and find where I put my jack then it took to replace the two rear shocks :-) Grabbed a few pictures, then had to rush it and get the front two in to get to work ASAP.. so wasnt able to take any during pictures.. and its a tad dark out now to take some after ones... But I do have a couple of the rear shocks I took for ya..!


Give me a bit while I wind down a bit, just got back from work..


My odl shocks are disgusting.. some Motocraft crap, they were so shot, I coudl take two of them in my hands and depress them easier then pie.. and they made some sort of a gurgly bubbly sound when they depressed.. and I actually had to pull on them to get them to come back out again.. both front and rear did that.


The ride is awesome.. it is stiff, but you dont get that infamous wheel hop over speed bumps, and any big bumps sorta just bounce a little and you really dont feel it. It gives you a whole nother world of traction feeling.. fantastic change of pace.. oh, and I hopped into the back of my truck and jumped around (I weigh just bit over 180 lbs) and it wasnt sagging or jumping around at all.. prior to that, 200 lbs of downforce was enough to make it bounce awful good.



I <3 The KYB Monomax! ;-D
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  #17  
Old 02-01-2008
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Michael Im glad you like em...now spread the word!!
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2008
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I had the same experience with the Motorcraps that were OE on my truck.

I cant say enough good things about the KYB Monomaxes I have on there now.
STIFF is the way to put it, at least for the first 2 weeks, now they eased up a TINY bit, but still, no roll, diving, or any of the other bounce.

they really help the tuck handle...most of my driving is on road also.


to folks installing them, just a note, the rear ones have bands on them for a REASON:D

put the top end on, then position the shock, THEN cut the band, otherwise, you better be a monster if you expect to get it compressed an in:D
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Old 02-01-2008
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Lol, yeah about the straps...
My dumba$$ didnt realize that till I nearly pulled a groin....ouch!!
Needless to say, lesson learned.
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Old 02-02-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBell View Post
I had the same experience with the Motorcraps that were OE on my truck.

I cant say enough good things about the KYB Monomaxes I have on there now.
STIFF is the way to put it, at least for the first 2 weeks, now they eased up a TINY bit, but still, no roll, diving, or any of the other bounce.

they really help the tuck handle...most of my driving is on road also.


to folks installing them, just a note, the rear ones have bands on them for a REASON:D

put the top end on, then position the shock, THEN cut the band, otherwise, you better be a monster if you expect to get it compressed an in:D

I caught that on the first one.. the tip with it is: You stick a screwdriver (Preferably a long handled one.. my craftsmen one did wonders.. then angle it so when you cut that strap, the shock pushes right up against it.. then tweak it a bit, line the hole up, and poof.. it works magic.

The second one was a pain in my ***... nothign like cursing to the gods that be after you realize you actually have to push about 100 lbs of pressure constantly for about 15 seconds to give it enough leverage to catch it with that tool trick I mentioned earlier. On that note: Here!

****************************************

For the rear shocks, you 'do not' need to jack the tires up.. there is more than enough room under there to crawl around.. and no weight is applied to the shocks, so dont worry about the truck falling or some junk by removing and replacing them without the axle being supported.


All the tools you need for these shocks.. oh, and a pair of scissors to.. not a knife, because you wont be able to cut and keep your hand available to grab the expanding shock if you knife it





Picture of the stock shocks, this is the simple part... it takes a 15 and a 17mm I believe.. may be wrong. Pretty much, get a ratchet on one end, and a wrench on the other.





Remove that bolt, and the shock may (or may not in my case) expand and just hang there. Do the bottom first.. as you will need the leverage to pry the top off.





This is the top of the shock, very easy to do.. just stick a wrench up there to give you the initial leverage you need to break the buildup on there.. then ratchet it the rest of the way off. Soon as that bolt comes off, you will need to grab yourself a prybar of sorts (A long screwdriver works perfect for this.. hence, in my picture #1) and stick it against the side of the truck up there.. wedge and wiggle.. since its been there for a while, you will need to really work at it a bit.





Rinse and repeat on the other side... you will find putting the new shocks very easy to do.. start with the top one first.. slide it on the bolt, tighten bolt to about ohh.. a decent amount of torque.. No way I coudl fit a torque wrench up there, but I figure I gave it about a 30-35lb pull to keep it where its needed. Then stick a pry bar in the bottom where the shock needs to be.. angle it to catch the expanding new shock (After you cut the tension keeper thingy) wrestle it into place.. if for some reason the holes dont line up, take a second tool (I used my scissors) and stick it in the hole for the bolt on one side.. wrench it till its going through the hole of the shock as well.. then jack it around a bit until the hoel lines up.. push the bolt down.. and secure both ends to anotehr 30-35lb pull on there.. again, I didnt need a torque for this, its just needing to be tight enough to not come loose. Here are the new shocks, all purty.. dont mind the hanging cuts in the boot.. I still need to put the zip ties on it and hang them up a bit. I recommend keeping the boots on, as they protect the piston from the weather, which.. can be very good to do in some areas :-)


Last edited by WowMike2001; 07-21-2009 at 06:18 AM.
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  #21  
Old 02-02-2008
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And again, I did the front shocks as well.. but have yet to take any pictures, the install was a pain in the ***.. only because I had to run out to the barn in teh snow to go get my jacks and my 3 ton quicklift *Do yourself a favor.. and spend the 80-120 bucks it takes to buy a 3 ton quicklift.. they kick general *** in a shop I actually got mine on sale for 60 bucks at a store that was closing down.. along with other misc tools. And the tools pictured that i was using on this adventure, were some good ol craftsman tools I got treated to during christmas.


Perhaps when I hav ethe time, I'll take a couple pictures for the front shocks.. but its pretty much, jack the truck up on one side.. remove the top of the shocks bolt first, you will need a pair of wrenches or anythign of choice to hold the jack in place.. as it will spin while you are attempting to loosen the bolt.. and you will need to hold it still to finish.


It just takes time on the front ones.. it really wasnt bad.. if you jack it up and leave your jack lifted using the main supprt.. not the flexing arm, you will be able to get the shock in the area.. then youll notice you are short about an inch of gap inputting the bolt down into the lower assembly after you put the top one on. Just lower the truck till the tire hits the ground.. watch the shock and lower it until the shock is in place.. slide the bolt in through some wiggling.. and pow, no need to apply any manual pressure to wiggle it in.




They arent really hard, it took me longer to get my toosl together and dragging them from teh barn to the inside garage then it took to change my rear shocks.. and the fronts took about an hour and 45 minutes or so only due to them needing ALOT of wrist grease getting those damn top nuts off.

Just remember: the top goes Metal Washer then Rubber Absorber... then slide the shock into the top, then do the backwards set.. put the second rubber absorber on, the metal washer.. followed by the bolt on the top.. and squeeze it all together nice and good.





When you get them all put on, enjoy! I love them an awful ton... drive it around in soem bumpy terrian.. take them back home.. tighten the nuts up some more to make sure they are secure.. and happy wheelin/drivin!
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Old 02-02-2008
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Very detailed...Great job Michael!!
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  #23  
Old 02-02-2008
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if I had more time, I woudl have made it very detailed.. maybe a guide for teh front's too.. but bleh, work takes priority.
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  #24  
Old 02-02-2008
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Lol, that should be posted in the "how to" forum...
Now take her out to a dirt road and see how she articulates!!!
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Old 02-02-2008
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Lol, that should be posted in the "how to" forum...
Now take her out to a dirt road and see how she articulates!!!

I soo want to.. only one problem..


No more dirt :-( only feet of snow, I tried getting out there.. and honestly, I need another 4 inches of lift and some bigger tires to get any further then I get.. had to 4-low it in the middle of a dirt road to turn around and go back it was so bad and slippery -laughs-


That, and my front valance took a hit from some snow, and its hanging rather precariously off of my bumper.. going to crap-fab some washers and bolts to support it better.. and take another look around and find someone to custom make a bumper for me... preferably something I can mount some **** to (Fog lights preferably) or the stock fogs.. that would be excellent.

Im sick of ****ty plastic parts on a truck, why the hell would an offroad vehicle have a stock plastic valance hanging a foot above the ground? Rocks are bigger then a foot off the ground where i come from, and iut sure doesnt work well as a snow plow
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