Front end spindle install after math......
#1
Front end spindle install after math......
I just installed a 3" spindle kit on the front of my 2wd 99' Ford Ranger and noticed that my wheel look like this from a aboove view / \ (exagerated but same angle, pigeon toed so to speak) and they should look like this | |. I saw what I believe is the lower arm joint is threaded, can I adjust this to make my wheels point straight? If not what do I do?
Thanks for any suggestions or info in advance,
Nik
Thanks for any suggestions or info in advance,
Nik
#3
Yes, Nikolas that's what you need. It's a set of bolts and special washers that allow you to adjust where the upper arm is and all. It's funny because when I put my Doetsch spindles on they actually corrected some negative camber (like you're describing) that I had gotten from cranking the torsion bars quite a bit.
#5
Ha ha! You're too new to know that's what I am going to do. But it's a year off. I need to wheel like I am (2WD with locker) until I get the buck together to do two things: 1) get another daily driver and 2) get the stuff I need
But it's going to happen. I intend to keep this truck indefinitely. I already put a 31 spline 8.8 on the back with an electric locker and 4.56 gears and 35's. The SAS is coming -- it just can't come fast enough...
But it's going to happen. I intend to keep this truck indefinitely. I already put a 31 spline 8.8 on the back with an electric locker and 4.56 gears and 35's. The SAS is coming -- it just can't come fast enough...
#6
#7
#8
Originally Posted by pushdeck
I just installed a 3" spindle kit on the front of my 2wd 99' Ford Ranger and noticed that my wheel look like this from a aboove view / \ (exagerated but same angle, pigeon toed so to speak) and they should look like this | |. I saw what I believe is the lower arm joint is threaded, can I adjust this to make my wheels point straight? If not what do I do?
Thanks for any suggestions or info in advance,
Nik
Thanks for any suggestions or info in advance,
Nik
#9
#10
Originally Posted by n3elz
I know several who have done it with Dana 30's. I haven't done the research, but some Grands came with Dana 35's? I'd like to find one of those for maybe a bit more strength. I'll be running 35's with 4.56's in mine.
Last edited by DownSouthTAS; 11-24-2005 at 08:22 AM.
#11
#12
Originally Posted by n3elz
Fair enough. A guy who wheels at work is the one that told me of the mythical "35 fronts" and he believes there are some out there. But he also had no info on what years and so on and I haven't dug into it.
Dana 25/27s were standard until the CJ-6 (55-75) when the Dana 30 started making its debut. Rear axles were Dana 44s, with AMC 20 variations.
I believe the Dana 30 front became completely standard in '72 on the CJ5.
#13
not that i know anything about a d/35...
just google dana 35.
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/16722/
but from all of my reading(over many an offroad forum)... nothing smaller than a d44 is practical for 35" tires/offroading, and by offroading(i mean what john will be doing)...
since alot of poseurs feel the need to waste their money on a sas swap, to fling some mud, drive over some curbs, and park on broken cars... i say let them swap whatever they want in... if it breaks, eh.. they will learn.
i have the 2.5" pipe from our golf-cart,if anyone wants to use it for some sort of conversion.
just google dana 35.
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/16722/
but from all of my reading(over many an offroad forum)... nothing smaller than a d44 is practical for 35" tires/offroading, and by offroading(i mean what john will be doing)...
since alot of poseurs feel the need to waste their money on a sas swap, to fling some mud, drive over some curbs, and park on broken cars... i say let them swap whatever they want in... if it breaks, eh.. they will learn.
i have the 2.5" pipe from our golf-cart,if anyone wants to use it for some sort of conversion.
#15
#18
#19
#20
Go get a pair of 3/8" wooden dowels from a hobby or home store. They're 3 or 4 feet long or whatever.
Put them together, overlapping and put a couple of rubber bands on them.
At the same height, in the same "spot" (that is, at the same height above ground, and the same distance from the edge of the tire), measure the distance between your front tires in front of the spindle, and behind it. Watch out for raised lettering and don't measure it!
Make small adjustments of the tie rods until the distances are equal. You can make some marks on the dowels to serve as a "ruler" to know the distance, more or less. Put a single line on one as a "cursor", and a "scale" of some sort on the other.
When the front distance is equal to, or just slightly less than the back distance (front of the front wheels, back of the front wheels -- not back wheels, lol) you're done.
Make like 1/8 to 1/4 turn adjustments in the tie rod until you get a feel for how much movement you're going to get. Adjust both sides so that your steering stays centered.
When you're done, if your steering seems "off" (that is, the steering wheel isn't centered to go straight), you can adjust one side out, and the other side in by the same amount to correct it. It's amazing how LITTLE turning of the tie rod this requires, so start small.
That's basically it. It's not "precision" but it's good enough and tire wear will be fine. If you beat your truck up offroad a lot, get used to doing this because taking it in to get it realigned after you've "adjusted" your front geometry offroading can get old really fast.
Put them together, overlapping and put a couple of rubber bands on them.
At the same height, in the same "spot" (that is, at the same height above ground, and the same distance from the edge of the tire), measure the distance between your front tires in front of the spindle, and behind it. Watch out for raised lettering and don't measure it!
Make small adjustments of the tie rods until the distances are equal. You can make some marks on the dowels to serve as a "ruler" to know the distance, more or less. Put a single line on one as a "cursor", and a "scale" of some sort on the other.
When the front distance is equal to, or just slightly less than the back distance (front of the front wheels, back of the front wheels -- not back wheels, lol) you're done.
Make like 1/8 to 1/4 turn adjustments in the tie rod until you get a feel for how much movement you're going to get. Adjust both sides so that your steering stays centered.
When you're done, if your steering seems "off" (that is, the steering wheel isn't centered to go straight), you can adjust one side out, and the other side in by the same amount to correct it. It's amazing how LITTLE turning of the tie rod this requires, so start small.
That's basically it. It's not "precision" but it's good enough and tire wear will be fine. If you beat your truck up offroad a lot, get used to doing this because taking it in to get it realigned after you've "adjusted" your front geometry offroading can get old really fast.
#23
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