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  #1  
Old 04-02-2009
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32's OR 33's???

Ok so first off ive been searching the threads for a while and couldnt find just the answer i was looking for so i wanted to ask the professionals (AKA You Guys)!...
I just installed a body lift on my 99' 4X4 and am getting crager soft 8's (15x8)
Im against T-bar crank since im on B-bars and have 100K on them, im thinkin they would sag on me if i cranked em....so ive dropped the tbar crank and aal idea.
I cant afford new ball joints, tie rods,or worse yet new #1 bars if they were to sag.
So here it is:

What size tire a 32"(10.5, 11.5, 12.5) OR 33"(10.5, 11.5, 12.5)?

Super swamper TSL Radials (Trusted and true design, sweet tire) OR BFG A/T (Very reliable tire, not as sweet lookin tho)?

Now im not into completely filling my wheel well. I want there to be full flexing area and not look like just a big tire in the whole well...(know what i mean)?
Also, i have like a good 12" both up front and rear from fender to top of stock P235/75/R15 tires (what a like 28.5" or something).

So what you think i need some advice/ opinion?
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  #2  
Old 04-02-2009
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33x12.50 IMO
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Old 04-02-2009
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33x12.5-15 and put it on a 10 inch wide rim.
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  #4  
Old 04-02-2009
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33 13.50 on a 10 inch wide wheel. if you can get a 13.50
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  #5  
Old 04-02-2009
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with a 8 in wheel it will be slightly taller yet skinnier but with a 10 in wheel it will be short and wider

am i correct?
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  #6  
Old 04-02-2009
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10" RIms?

Wait what??? I thought that the 15X8 was the primo setup for 32's/ 33's?
Isnt everyone else running 15X8 cragers? I like that look alot. Will i have problems getting the 33/32's mounted on 15X8's?
I had 15X7's so i sold them...but maybe 15X8 is still to small?
Im keeping my stockies for like highway driving and inspection...etc.
Anyone else have any input? ....
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  #7  
Old 04-02-2009
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i guess that depends on the look you want for your truck
i kept my 7's, and got 32x11.50 but they like wider tires/rims around here
i think 33's on 15x8's would look ok but again, it's up to you

here's one (not mine) 32's on 15x8
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and here's mine 32's on 15x7
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HTH!
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  #8  
Old 04-02-2009
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Hey thanks man, that what i was thinking...but still not sure if the 33's or 32's would look better. prob 32's would be enough?

Any input is welcome. I just want to hear some opinions?

Thanks for pic too!
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  #9  
Old 04-02-2009
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With a body lift, you will be fine with 33x12.50's. 32x11.50's would look alright too, a little on the smaller side though,
Stick with a 15x8. The 10" wide wheels push the tires out, and put more stress on the ball joints and wheel bearings.

What gears do you have? I had a 98 4.0L 5 speed manual, with 3.73's and 33's and it was a dog some times. The clutch was not happy. Towing sucked bad. I'm betting with 235's you have 3.55's or something.
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Old 04-02-2009
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i have 33x12.50 on 15x10. perfect set up for a 3" body lift. 32s were too small when i had em.

i cranked by b-bars at 149k miles without problems, they will sag a little bit maybe, but they will not be lower than where you are now. id put 2-4 turns in em and run 33's. you will be fine with 33s and not cranking them too though. and 4.10s will be your friend
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  #11  
Old 04-02-2009
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4.56's would be his friend with a 3.slow.
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  #12  
Old 04-03-2009
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yeah true, if it is an auto. id never go taller than 4.10 in my 3.0 5speed. im 2500 at 70 now and thats plenty
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  #13  
Old 04-03-2009
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TSL vs BFG a/t. two COMPLETELY different rhelms of tire. do you really need a tire like a TSL?


OP....

32x11.50 on 15x8 steelies with 4" backspace, slightly cranked front, completely stock rear, and 3" bodylift...

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IMO....it looked 'okay', but begged for something larger....like a 33x12.50.

Wheel width....you can run a 7 or 8 on an 11.50 tire. you can run an 8 or 10 on a 12.50 tire. IMO....go the 8" wheel and 12.50 tire route. tires should be right at the edge of the flares, and it'll fill the wheelwell. You shouldn't have rub.....crank them bars up a little bit....a little bit wont do anything...it's when bars are maxed is when accelerated wear occurs.

What's your gear ratio? If you've got 4.10's, you are good to go for 33's. BUT...if you are 3.73, and 3.0, you might have some problems in the power department.
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  #14  
Old 04-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStallion View Post
I cant afford new ball joints, tie rods,or worse yet new #1 bars if they were to sag.
Ball joints, upper and lower on both sides, $320 (Canadian).
Inner and Outer Tie Rods on both sides, $300 (Canadian).

Installation = 3 hrs.

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  #15  
Old 04-06-2009
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hmmm yep i got the 3.73's!

Wow thanks for all the advice fellas. I near forgot about this thread this weekend but sure glad i checked back today.
Yeah ive got a 3.73 w/ the 7.5 axle? and the 3.0 slow, but at least its a manual.

[QUOTE]TSL vs BFG a/t. two COMPLETELY different rhelms of tire. do you really need a tire like a TSL?/QUOTE]
yeah i know that...i just love the look of the ss. But ill prob end up going with bfg a/t or m/t. More practical. I do much highway driving.

[QUOTE]i cranked by b-bars at 149k miles without problems, they will sag a little bit maybe, but they will not be lower than where you are now. id put 2-4 turns in em and run 33's. you will be fine with 33s and not cranking them too though. and 4.10s will be your friend/QUOTE]
Now im thinking of lets say adjusting the b-bars, not cranking! Im in college so if im always needing new front end parts from premature ware my parents will flip *(&^. They hate it as it is me putting money into my rig. They say its getting old and worn which it is...lol! But we'll see....all depends what tire i get cause a 32 will look to small with b-bar torque too i guess.

Anyhow thanks for solving my rim size dilema. That helps...im going with crager soft 8 15x8.

now for the tire size lol!

One question about the b-bar adjustment though...?
My truck is sitting level now just with 3"body lift. So ill need a aal for the rear....hard to install? Good for suspension? i know they're much cheaper then the chevy shackles?
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  #16  
Old 04-06-2009
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Not to threadjack or anything, but are 33's with a 3.0 and 3.73's really that bad. I am considering going that route, and dont have the money to regear. Will it be bearable?
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  #17  
Old 04-06-2009
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It won't be a speed demon but you can get around. You can always go to the junkyard and pull a ranger 8.8 with 4.10s and just bolt it in.
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2009
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Originally Posted by Ranger_Guy15 View Post
Not to threadjack or anything, but are 33's with a 3.0 and 3.73's really that bad. I am considering going that route, and dont have the money to regear. Will it be bearable?
at least one member on this site had her auto trans start slipping on 3.73s with a 3.0 with 33s

personally i wouldnt go bigger than 31s on those gears, but then again i have a 4cyl, and on my 4cyl i wouldnt go bigger than 29s without a regear for gas mileage reasons
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2009
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regear?

I heard if you have a manual you wont have a problem, but if your an auto, you'll be wanting 4:10's or something better. But the 3.0L is much slower lol!

....?
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2009
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It will suck, but be drivable.
The 5 speed is almost worst because of the tall first gear.
Like I said, I had 3.73's with 33s, 4.0L manual. Got around okay, but hauling/towing sucked a little. Getting a trailer moving from a stop took a toll on the clutch. Anything off road (other than gravel/dirt/light snow) required 4x4 low. Just didn't have enough to get through sand, mud, deep snow in 4high.

I got around that way for years, but I wouldn't do it again, given the choice.
I guess if you're just driving around with nothing in the truck, no big mountains, it may be okay. But you'll notice a big difference from 235's to 33's.
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  #21  
Old 04-06-2009
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I have number 1 bars, which are basically the same as B bars and I have over 250 000 miles on mine. I cranked my bars over 15 000km ago and they have not sagged.

BTW, Soft 8's FTL.
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  #22  
Old 04-06-2009
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hmm...

[QUOTE]I got around that way for years, but I wouldn't do it again, given the choice.
I guess if you're just driving around with nothing in the truck, no big mountains, it may be okay. But you'll notice a big difference from 235's to 33's./QUOTE]
Yep im in for it lol going to 32's or 33's but heck its worth it lol. Im positive im gonna have to regear though.

Probably 32's bfg a/t would be easier with 3.73's than say 33" Super swamper tsl's lol?

[QUOTE]I have number 1 bars, which are basically the same as B bars and I have over 250 000 miles on mine. I cranked my bars over 15 000km ago and they have not sagged./QUOTE]
No premature ball joint wear or anything? I dont want this thread to turn into another t-bar thing but im contimplating it now haha!

Thanks for the suggestions and experience!
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  #23  
Old 04-06-2009
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might as well go 35s now.. your gonna get 33s and want bigger, it happens to all of us
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  #24  
Old 04-07-2009
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Originally Posted by 04blackedge View Post
It won't be a speed demon but you can get around. You can always go to the junkyard and pull a ranger 8.8 with 4.10s and just bolt it in.
Correct me if im wrong, but then wont I have to put 4.10's up front in order for the 4x4 to work?
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  #25  
Old 04-07-2009
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Correct me if im wrong, but then wont I have to put 4.10's up front in order for the 4x4 to work?
yup
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