33x12.50x15 FENDER GRAB????WHY
#1
33x12.50x15 FENDER GRAB????WHY
i have a set of 15x10 rims not sure of the backspacing will measure tomorrow i have a 00 ranger 4x4 with a body lift and i have a used 33 x12.50x15 i got mounted on one of the rims and it clears np in the back but the lugs grab my front fender.....idk why i cant clear them...would like to trade my rims for 15x8 with the correct backspacing to clear these size tires...any interests?
#2
#4
#6
It's the wheels/backspacing.
I had a 98 4x4 with a 3" body lift, 33x12.50's on 15x8's with 3.75 backspacing, and factory fenders with the plastic mud flaps. NO torsion bar crank. The torsion bar crank is only going to help at ride height, the suspension will still compress to the same spot.
Even with disconnected sway bar, I could stuff a front tire/wheel all the way to the bumpstop and never rub anything. With 2 different brands of M/T's in the same size.
I had a 98 4x4 with a 3" body lift, 33x12.50's on 15x8's with 3.75 backspacing, and factory fenders with the plastic mud flaps. NO torsion bar crank. The torsion bar crank is only going to help at ride height, the suspension will still compress to the same spot.
Even with disconnected sway bar, I could stuff a front tire/wheel all the way to the bumpstop and never rub anything. With 2 different brands of M/T's in the same size.
#8
#9
ok so what spacing to I need to clear them so when I get new rims I can have that part right......n what does FTL and FTW mean?....I have 285 75 16s on the truck now ......with the stock teardrops.... should Ijust get 15x8 rims.....or crank the t bars?...n what's the way to go when cranking them just crank em or buy the keys
#10
For The Loss/Lose. For The Win.
Number one...you should crank the bars some. I had your current size tires on my truck when it wasn't even lifted on the stock teardrops. Then 32x11.50. Then bodylifted and 35x12.50, now superlifted and bodylifted on 35x12.50.
It's really hard to tell you what you need to do, at least for me, because I've always ran 15x10 with 12.50 tires on my truck with no issues real issues. 3" BL or 4" SL(suspension lift) should be plenty fine with 15x10 and 33x12.50's...even if the backspace is 3.5". Your valence clears just fine...your mudflaps however probably dont because they're molded into the flare.
Where exactly are you rubbing? Post pics.
Again...I blame alot to sagging torsion bars. 10year old bars with 100k+ on them...they're tired even if you've never touched them. Stay the hell away from torsion keys on a Ranger please.
Number one...you should crank the bars some. I had your current size tires on my truck when it wasn't even lifted on the stock teardrops. Then 32x11.50. Then bodylifted and 35x12.50, now superlifted and bodylifted on 35x12.50.
It's really hard to tell you what you need to do, at least for me, because I've always ran 15x10 with 12.50 tires on my truck with no issues real issues. 3" BL or 4" SL(suspension lift) should be plenty fine with 15x10 and 33x12.50's...even if the backspace is 3.5". Your valence clears just fine...your mudflaps however probably dont because they're molded into the flare.
Where exactly are you rubbing? Post pics.
Again...I blame alot to sagging torsion bars. 10year old bars with 100k+ on them...they're tired even if you've never touched them. Stay the hell away from torsion keys on a Ranger please.
#11
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I ran 33x12.5 on my 99 for almost 30k and rubbed my bumper a handful of times, but that was only because the mounts for my bumper were screwed and I had bent them all to hell. Once I fixed that never had rubbing issues again.
I did crank the T-bars a little bit for the last 10k, but they weren't maxed out.
I'd say I'm with Shane on this one. Crank the T-Bars up a notch or 2 and you should be fine. Don't waste your money on keys either. Just crank them up a bit.
I did crank the T-bars a little bit for the last 10k, but they weren't maxed out.
I'd say I'm with Shane on this one. Crank the T-Bars up a notch or 2 and you should be fine. Don't waste your money on keys either. Just crank them up a bit.
Last edited by Rooks; 08-05-2009 at 03:55 PM.
#14
The torsion bars will help at ride height, but again, when the tires stuff to the bumps it will still rub.
The problem is that wider wheels the less backspacing is that it increases the scrub radius. As you turn the wheel from left to right, the whole wheel/tire moves forward and back in the wheel well.
The problem is that wider wheels the less backspacing is that it increases the scrub radius. As you turn the wheel from left to right, the whole wheel/tire moves forward and back in the wheel well.
#19
Is the rubbing just on the front bumper or on the back of the fender? If it is just the plastic valence, trim it down with a dremel, no problems. I had to get rid of quite a bit of bumper plastic on my sport trac. I used the cutting wheel on the dremel, then the sanding wheel to smooth it down, looked great.
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this is me just diff name....they grab the fender i dont have mud flaps or a valance .....they grab right where the fender rolls over into the wheel well im gonna get crank when i get paid so i can get it aligned.....cuz im gonna crank till i level it.....3 yrs worth of baja'n running dogs ....im with ya.....they r sagging
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