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Wheels & Tires Semi-Tech General discussion of wheels and tires for the Ford Ranger.
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  #26  
Old 11-24-2013
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3 staffers popped in within a couple minutes. This tells us someone reported a post and they all the got the email notification.

Dang....fillman edited my posts. I was darn proud of those too! A senior admin cleaned the thread up and issued warning, but some secondary lessor came in later and edited posts. Well that's just poopdiculous.
and thats why this forum and all other ranger forums suck lol.

theyre so heavily edited by mods its ridiculous. bunch of pansy *** moderators and members.
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  #27  
Old 11-24-2013
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We actually kinda let you guys argue and express your own POV....

...until insults and name calling starts flying.

To the OP, sorry things got out of hand.

We hope that you sorta got an answer to your question/issue.
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  #28  
Old 11-24-2013
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We actually kinda let you guys argue an express your own POV....

...until insults and name calling starts flying.
x2
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  #29  
Old 11-24-2013
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so lock the thread and hand out bans. no need to edit posts. thats just bs
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  #30  
Old 11-24-2013
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so lock the thread and hand out bans. no need to edit posts. thats just bs
Maybe you don't know the complete history of our site, but that attitude of just locking the thread and handing out bans just damn near ruined this place. I refuse to go down that road again and will not run the site that way. If you don't want your post edited don't be a jerk. Simple enough?
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  #31  
Old 11-24-2013
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ProComp 52

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Originally Posted by Taylor View Post
We actually kinda let you guys argue and express your own POV....

...until insults and name calling starts flying.

To the OP, sorry things got out of hand.

We hope that you sorta got an answer to your question/issue.
It's all good. Give me an opinionated raging forum that is active than one that is dead and nobody replies. I have lots of ideas to look at and that is way more than I had before. Everybody has a right to speak their mind (hopefully they base their opinions on first hand knowledge/experience). I tried to get some info on another forum I watch and got nothing in reply (yet if you look at pics of their trucks they were running the same wheel). So this one has been the opposite. Will post more when I get things figured out.

Thanks.
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  #32  
Old 11-25-2013
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Well here is my update. I took my truck to the shop that installed the tires and wheels. They pulled the wheels and rebalanced them. After looking at it for several hours they recommended hub-ring spacer. Problem with that is they don't make them (that they could find) for steel wheels. I talked to Summit (where I got them) to ask if I find it is a defective wheel what are my options? They said it has been mounted so SOL. I called ProComp looking for advise and to see if they had the rings or knew the center-line bore of the wheel. They did not know it and only suggestion was to re-tighten the lugz. I looked up numbers for ProComp dealers in my state and the only one was on other side of state. I called them and he echoed what some other on here said...road/load balance because if any of the wheels are bent/untrue they could adjust tire on rim and get a better balance. Another key thing I did not know is road/load balance uses the lugz to balance and NOT the hub hole.
So I found a well known local place that has this type of wheel balancer (most places don't cause the machine is very expensive). They also are used to dealing with bigger tires. They confirmed the rims are straight and very good shape. He was surprised because steel rims are known to be "not perfect". He said the hub hole is stamped and is infamous for causing balance issues especially with larger tires. He also confirmed that one of the tires was slightly off on roundness and could only be balanced to a certain degree. His load/road balance has improved the wheel shimmy. I called the original place and told them they need to get me another tire. Which they are. While the issue isn't completely resolved at least it is improving.

Thanks
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  #33  
Old 11-25-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forge View Post
Well here is my update. I took my truck to the shop that installed the tires and wheels. They pulled the wheels and rebalanced them. After looking at it for several hours they recommended hub-ring spacer. Problem with that is they don't make them (that they could find) for steel wheels. I talked to Summit (where I got them) to ask if I find it is a defective wheel what are my options? They said it has been mounted so SOL. I called ProComp looking for advise and to see if they had the rings or knew the center-line bore of the wheel. They did not know it and only suggestion was to re-tighten the lugz. I looked up numbers for ProComp dealers in my state and the only one was on other side of state. I called them and he echoed what some other on here said...road/load balance because if any of the wheels are bent/untrue they could adjust tire on rim and get a better balance. Another key thing I did not know is road/load balance uses the lugz to balance and NOT the hub hole.
So I found a well known local place that has this type of wheel balancer (most places don't cause the machine is very expensive). They also are used to dealing with bigger tires. They confirmed the rims are straight and very good shape. He was surprised because steel rims are known to be "not perfect". He said the hub hole is stamped and is infamous for causing balance issues especially with larger tires. He also confirmed that one of the tires was slightly off on roundness and could only be balanced to a certain degree. His load/road balance has improved the wheel shimmy. I called the original place and told them they need to get me another tire. Which they are. While the issue isn't completely resolved at least it is improving.

Thanks
look online for the size hub rings you need. if you cant find them you can order them custom for $40-60

hub rings fixed the shimmy at highway speeds for me and made the overall ride much better.

I tried hub rings as a last resort, i was about to put my stock wheels back on and sell my aftermarkets ones
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  #34  
Old 11-25-2013
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Originally Posted by F.X.4 View Post
look online for the size hub rings you need. if you cant find them you can order them custom for $40-60

hub rings fixed the shimmy at highway speeds for me and made the overall ride much better.

I tried hub rings as a last resort, i was about to put my stock wheels back on and sell my aftermarkets ones
I did look at one website that makes them but they need to know the centerline bore. ProComp (wheel maker) and Summit (sellerz) don't seem to know it. I hope getting this last wheel replaced and balanced it will fix it. When you got your hub rings were they for steel wheels like mine? How did you determine size?
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  #35  
Old 11-25-2013
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i used justforwheels.com and i found the measurement i needed from the manufacturers website. Does procomp have any tech specs on their site? My wheels are aluminum not steel.
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  #36  
Old 11-25-2013
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still say theyre useless. bandaid fix for a real problem.

i had one of my steel wheels not be able to be road force balanced. turns out wheel was out of round. sent back got a replacement free of charge, problem solved.
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  #37  
Old 11-25-2013
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ProComp 52 blance issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by F.X.4 View Post
i used justforwheels.com and i found the measurement i needed from the manufacturers website. Does procomp have any tech specs on their site? My wheels are aluminum not steel.
I did contact justforwheels.com today by email to see if they had anything in their database about my wheels but they did not. They did say get them the measurements and they could probably make it. ProComp tech support and website offers no real tech support, but they will sell you **** all day.
I did come across this site today Hub Centric Rings from Brandsport
I am going to call them tomorrow to see what they have to say.

In response to the rings being a "waste of time and bigger issue". I don't dispute the potential of them being a waste of time and part of a bigger issue but if they will fix the issue then I am good with it. If getting this last tire and wheel load balanced fixes the issue then I will not need them.

Will update when progress is made.

Thanks.
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  #38  
Old 12-06-2013
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Update: Got all four wheels Load balanced and found all wheels are straight (not bent). One tire was slightly not round. Also bought some hub rings for the heck of it (only $7). They were pretty close to the correct size. Still have the shimmy. At this point I am $500 into a $295 set of rims (not counting tire cost). Going back Tuesday to swap the one tire and if they can't figure it out then I am switching back to stock rims.
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  #39  
Old 12-06-2013
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Wait, so your telling me hub rings did nothing?!?!?!

Shocker......

I had km2's that wouldn't balance at all on my steelies. The falkens balances super easy. And my hankook MT's took more weight but still balanced fine.
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  #40  
Old 12-06-2013
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Originally Posted by 6.2 View Post
Wait, so your telling me hub rings did nothing?!?!?!

Shocker......
I know right. Desperate man does desperate things. It's just a pisser that everybody and their brother run this setup and it just will not work for me. Hell --maybe I will just paint the stock wheels black. Old pic but same stock wheel.


Last edited by Forge; 12-06-2013 at 08:23 PM.
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  #41  
Old 12-07-2013
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Originally Posted by RazorsEDGE View Post
Maybe you don't know the complete history of our site, but that attitude of just locking the thread and handing out bans just damn near ruined this place. I refuse to go down that road again and will not run the site that way. If you don't want your post edited don't be a jerk. Simple enough?
ABSO-FREAKING-LUTELY!!!
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  #42  
Old 12-07-2013
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Forge...

Considering the age of the truck, have you eliminated the idea of perhaps something else is wrong or worn? Say wheel bearings, tie rod ends, U-joints, etc?

Again, I'm dumbfounded why you're having these issues. Are the stock rotor/drum retaining clips removed from the truck?

Perhaps it may just be a mental thing? Don't take it the wrong way...folks take closer note to the vehicle after a change has happened. Senses are heightened and you're more **** to what the vehicle is doing. Happens to me from time to time and I deal with these sort of things quite a bit being a tow operator and listening to vehicle owners who never notice the idiot light check on the gauges when I jump start 'em.

Just spitting out some idears.
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  #43  
Old 12-08-2013
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If he's not using the proper size hub rings of course it's not going to help.
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  #44  
Old 12-08-2013
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Shimmy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01 View Post
Forge...

Considering the age of the truck, have you eliminated the idea of perhaps something else is wrong or worn? Say wheel bearings, tie rod ends, U-joints, etc?

Again, I'm dumbfounded why you're having these issues. Are the stock rotor/drum retaining clips removed from the truck?

Perhaps it may just be a mental thing? Don't take it the wrong way...folks take closer note to the vehicle after a change has happened. Senses are heightened and you're more **** to what the vehicle is doing. Happens to me from time to time and I deal with these sort of things quite a bit being a tow operator and listening to vehicle owners who never notice the idiot light check on the gauges when I jump start 'em.

Just spitting out some idears.
I know what you mean about noticing every little noise and bump once a person thinks something is wrong. In this case tho the shop also noticed it. OF course they don't seem real interested in figuring it out. Truck has about 70k. The place I got the tires installed has had it on there lift a couple times and also had it aligned there. I would hope they would have noticed tie rod or ball joint...then again they haven't really impressed me that much.

I messaged a shop that specializes in building 4x4 kickass vehicles (2.5 hours away---if not I would go there---they have also been in business for 18 years) and they had this suggestion::

"You can run into this with heavy steel wheels. Steel wheels are heavier, and nowhere as true as Aluminum wheels which is one reason 95% of all factory wheels are Alloy! Yes you can have great success with steel wheels, but you can run into this problem with them and we have seen it alot at our shop.
I would have the wheels broke back down and ran on the balance machine by their selves with no tires! See how bad the balance is with just the rim, plus watch the wheel as its spinning for runout! Make sure they aren't out of round and you will be able to see it when they are running by their selves on the balance machine! Hope this helps you!"

Only problem with this suggestion is I don't think my local shop has the skills to troubleshoot issue effectively. Plus they don't have a load balance machine...this means I would go pay another shop $75 to load balance again. I am leaning toward just switching to stock wheels and maybe make drive to 4x4 shop few months from now.

thanks.
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  #45  
Old 12-08-2013
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yeah, one of mine was out of round. when they tried to balance it and it wouldnt they stuck it on the machine with no tire. could see how bad it was. sent back for a new one. no issues since.
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  #46  
Old 12-12-2013
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The latest:
Replaced out of round tire. Still have shimmy. Put stock wheels and tires back on and shop says shimmy happens with them. I don't remember shimmy with stock setup. Maybe because I was not looking for it. Shop also noticed that when taking off from a stand still there is a clunk. I would describe it as a slight delay between the driveshaft and rear end (power transfer between the two). They said they can recreate this with it on the rack. This is the second ranger I have owned that had this "clunk" (delay) on takeoff. Almost like something is loose in the rear end. Maybe I will get lucky and all this will be the result of something loose in the rear-end.

Anybody else had this delay in the rear-end?
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  #47  
Old 12-14-2013
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Yeah, I did. Then, Just a few weeks ago my ring gear started to throw bolts. If I was going highway speeds and let of the accelerator then get back on it quickly, the clunk would happen in the rear and sometimes when letting off the accelerator. I had tightened all the ring gear bolts back up and it helped the clunk/delay issue but not till I balanced the tires was I in the clear of my problem. (had a shimmy from both)
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  #48  
Old 12-14-2013
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Pulled the rear diff cover and there was tiny bit of metal shavings. Couple pins were little loose. Guess I could try a rebuild of diff but that does not guarantee the spider gears would not mess up. Or buy another rear-end from jYard and hope it did not have same issue. Either way $700 in labor depending where you go. Not sure what I will do just yet. Only choice now is drive it and see if it gets worse. I have owned a 2000 (117k miles) and 02 (75k miles) ranger XLT 4x4 and test drove an 05 with 55k and all three had this clunk. Tire guy pointed out that above the rear hub was a shot of faded red paint. Wonder if that is a mark from jYard? I mean had it already been replaced before I got truck? hhmm... Either way Christmas budget just got real tight.

All advice welcome.
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  #49  
Old 12-14-2013
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This might seem over simplified, but it sounds like u joints wouldn't be a bad place to start. Pretty cheap and easy to replace, might eliminate future probs if you haven't done them yet
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  #50  
Old 12-14-2013
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I haven't rebuilt a rear end so I'm not sure if I can help. Are those pins hanging out? That could throw balance off. Good to check tightness of everything in that rear since it opened up, before you add oil/friction modifier/bolt the cover back up. Have you checked the rear bearings for play with the rear jacked up off the ground? That could also cause a similar issue if it's a "silent" bad bearing. depending on how bad your problem is it could just be drive line lash from the play between the trans + t-case + pinion... it all adds up.

03edge is right too though. A bad ujoint can cause a vibration worsening with speed but it's different from a wobble sort of feeling. I've also heard them tick variable with speed. Best to check if there's play in the joints before replacing them.
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