00 XLT 2WD.... Looking to squeeze 33s need info
#1
00 XLT 2WD.... Looking to squeeze 33s need info
Have a stock 2000 XLT 2WD ranger ext cab
Have 33x12.50 15" wheels and tires on order
I have read the tire size chart and done all the research possible
Am currently getting quotes for a 3" spindle lift on the front only
If the rear doesnt need any lift to squeeze them then thats fine with me. Us on the west coast dont mind the prerunner look.
Looking for input if the 3" spindle will be enough (going to need trimming im assuming)
Thanks
Have 33x12.50 15" wheels and tires on order
I have read the tire size chart and done all the research possible
Am currently getting quotes for a 3" spindle lift on the front only
If the rear doesnt need any lift to squeeze them then thats fine with me. Us on the west coast dont mind the prerunner look.
Looking for input if the 3" spindle will be enough (going to need trimming im assuming)
Thanks
#3
33x12.50's are quite a bit of tire for a coil spring Ranger. Usually, folks who spindle lift or bodylift go for 31's...32's are pushing it. Typically 5.5" of lift is required to comfortably clear 33x12.50's on a coil truck. This can be all suspension or a combination of spindles and a bodylift. This is all assuming stock sheet metal.
Take a look at Fabtech's website (CLICK HERE).....they suggest 31x10.50 max for the 3" spindle lift.
If you had torsion bars, heck yes 33's and a spindle lift is a very popular thing. But for a coil spring truck, you need more lift to fit those 33x12.50's. I prefer to clear my tires, not barely clear.
Take a look at Fabtech's website (CLICK HERE).....they suggest 31x10.50 max for the 3" spindle lift.
If you had torsion bars, heck yes 33's and a spindle lift is a very popular thing. But for a coil spring truck, you need more lift to fit those 33x12.50's. I prefer to clear my tires, not barely clear.
#6
New Trosion Bars...
My 2002 Edge has just under 150,000 miles on her and the torsion bars are almost certainly sagging a little.
A couple of years or so, ago I cranked the old (and original) Code "F" bars up to the max and have been running 31-10.50-15's on stock 7.5" wide Ford Aluminum wheels. But even before torquing the **** outta the old "F" bars I had NO clearance problems at all. All cranking them did was give my truck a somewhat more "sporty" look.
When I cranked the "F" bars I got just short of 3" of lift as measured from the ground to the top of the fender wells...2.8" if I remember correctly...but I've made a couple of trips to CO in the last couple of months so my memory might be a little bit hazy on that figure. But it's close...
I am going to replace the old bars with factory fresh Code 1 bars (should be here before the end of the week) cranked up as far as they'll go.
Anyone care to venture a guess as to how much more (if any) these new bars will raise the front of my truck? I was told at my local Ford Dealership that using fresh Code "1" bars would give me about another 1.5-2" more lift for a total of just under 5" w/o having to trim anywhere. I am, however, skeptical when I get information from an outfit that wanted to charge me $700 for a new ignition set (luckily I found the keys to her so I dodged a bullet of rather large caliber there). That's why I'm putting this thread out there so's people that know and love their Rangers might give me some real world feedback. This backwater town I live in has very little in the way of suspension services. I'm going to have to go 'bout 130 miles to Dallas to get them properly installed by aftermarket professionals.
I'd like to cram as much tire under her as I can get. I don't do off road so suspension travel should not pose a problem.
Looking for suggestions that might lead to running 33-12.50-15's without using a spindle lift or anything other than the new bars (and probably some aftermarket torsion bar keys) to get the height I need.
The back spacing on the factory wheels is 5.25". The wheels I have on order (10x15's) have a backspacing of 3.5". So I stand to gain another 3.5" of center line track width. This modification will leave the tires inside the fender wells by about an inch (if my measurements are correct).
I'm giving thought to torquing the new bars to the max and I'm wondering if new or any aftermarket torsion bar keys might help me get the lift I need to get 33-12.50's to work.
A couple of years or so, ago I cranked the old (and original) Code "F" bars up to the max and have been running 31-10.50-15's on stock 7.5" wide Ford Aluminum wheels. But even before torquing the **** outta the old "F" bars I had NO clearance problems at all. All cranking them did was give my truck a somewhat more "sporty" look.
When I cranked the "F" bars I got just short of 3" of lift as measured from the ground to the top of the fender wells...2.8" if I remember correctly...but I've made a couple of trips to CO in the last couple of months so my memory might be a little bit hazy on that figure. But it's close...
I am going to replace the old bars with factory fresh Code 1 bars (should be here before the end of the week) cranked up as far as they'll go.
Anyone care to venture a guess as to how much more (if any) these new bars will raise the front of my truck? I was told at my local Ford Dealership that using fresh Code "1" bars would give me about another 1.5-2" more lift for a total of just under 5" w/o having to trim anywhere. I am, however, skeptical when I get information from an outfit that wanted to charge me $700 for a new ignition set (luckily I found the keys to her so I dodged a bullet of rather large caliber there). That's why I'm putting this thread out there so's people that know and love their Rangers might give me some real world feedback. This backwater town I live in has very little in the way of suspension services. I'm going to have to go 'bout 130 miles to Dallas to get them properly installed by aftermarket professionals.
I'd like to cram as much tire under her as I can get. I don't do off road so suspension travel should not pose a problem.
Looking for suggestions that might lead to running 33-12.50-15's without using a spindle lift or anything other than the new bars (and probably some aftermarket torsion bar keys) to get the height I need.
The back spacing on the factory wheels is 5.25". The wheels I have on order (10x15's) have a backspacing of 3.5". So I stand to gain another 3.5" of center line track width. This modification will leave the tires inside the fender wells by about an inch (if my measurements are correct).
I'm giving thought to torquing the new bars to the max and I'm wondering if new or any aftermarket torsion bar keys might help me get the lift I need to get 33-12.50's to work.
#8
My 2002 Edge has just under 150,000 miles on her and the torsion bars are almost certainly sagging a little. A couple of years or so, ago I cranked the old (and original) Code "F" bars up to the max and have been running 31-10.50-15's on stock 7.5" wide Ford Aluminum wheels. But even before torquing the **** outta the old "F" bars I had NO clearance problems at all. All cranking them did was give my truck a somewhat more "sporty" look. When I cranked the "F" bars I got just short of 3" of lift as measured from the ground to the top of the fender wells...2.8" if I remember correctly...but I've made a couple of trips to CO in the last couple of months so my memory might be a little bit hazy on that figure. But it's close... I am going to replace the old bars with factory fresh Code 1 bars (should be here before the end of the week) cranked up as far as they'll go. Anyone care to venture a guess as to how much more (if any) these new bars will raise the front of my truck? I was told at my local Ford Dealership that using fresh Code "1" bars would give me about another 1.5-2" more lift for a total of just under 5" w/o having to trim anywhere. I am, however, skeptical when I get information from an outfit that wanted to charge me $700 for a new ignition set (luckily I found the keys to her so I dodged a bullet of rather large caliber there). That's why I'm putting this thread out there so's people that know and love their Rangers might give me some real world feedback. This backwater town I live in has very little in the way of suspension services. I'm going to have to go 'bout 130 miles to Dallas to get them properly installed by aftermarket professionals. I'd like to cram as much tire under her as I can get. I don't do off road so suspension travel should not pose a problem. Looking for suggestions that might lead to running 33-12.50-15's without using a spindle lift or anything other than the new bars (and probably some aftermarket torsion bar keys) to get the height I need. The back spacing on the factory wheels is 5.25". The wheels I have on order (10x15's) have a backspacing of 3.5". So I stand to gain another 3.5" of center line track width. This modification will leave the tires inside the fender wells by about an inch (if my measurements are correct). I'm giving thought to torquing the new bars to the max and I'm wondering if new or any aftermarket torsion bar keys might help me get the lift I need to get 33-12.50's to work.
With that being said, I find it hard to believe that you got almost 3 inches out of your current tbars. The most people usually get are 2".
If you want to fit 33s with just a tbar crank, buy some 10.5 wide tires and you should be good.
#9
Thanks, Bitzy:
CV Axles are the least of my worries. My Truck is 2WD and Torsion Bars (obviously). I gotta admit I thought the guy at the Ford House was trying to pound sand in my *** when he told me I could get almost 5" of lift using the method I described. But, honest to God, my truck came up just short of 3" when I cranked the old "F" bars I have now. I just figured that being a stiffer Code 1 bar (larger diameter, I think) I might squeeze another inch out of it (maybe a bit more if I went to aftermarket Torsion Bar Keys) without having to go to the raised spindles.
But after reading your response I'm left to wonder about it. In fact, you've given me a severe case of the heebeejeebees. Leavin' me to wonder if I should scratch my watch or wind my ***.
I would like to ask (and please don't take offense)...what do you know about Torsion Bar Keys that makes you think they are a bad idea? Just curious you understand. I'm sure you have your reasons for your opinion. I'd just like to know, specifically, what damage you think they might do to my particular application?
Don't know why I'm even considering trying to get the max out of the Torsion Bars & Keys. I'll probably go with the raised spindles in the end anyway...besides, I've already got 10" wheels on the way so I gotta do something. Don't ask me why...I just want that extra 2" of tread width and the extra track width that the wheels I have on order and 12.50's will give.
Do you think 2" lift spindles will work or should I go to 3" (or more)?
At any rate, I appreciate your response, there, Partner.
I'll keep you posted.
CV Axles are the least of my worries. My Truck is 2WD and Torsion Bars (obviously). I gotta admit I thought the guy at the Ford House was trying to pound sand in my *** when he told me I could get almost 5" of lift using the method I described. But, honest to God, my truck came up just short of 3" when I cranked the old "F" bars I have now. I just figured that being a stiffer Code 1 bar (larger diameter, I think) I might squeeze another inch out of it (maybe a bit more if I went to aftermarket Torsion Bar Keys) without having to go to the raised spindles.
But after reading your response I'm left to wonder about it. In fact, you've given me a severe case of the heebeejeebees. Leavin' me to wonder if I should scratch my watch or wind my ***.
I would like to ask (and please don't take offense)...what do you know about Torsion Bar Keys that makes you think they are a bad idea? Just curious you understand. I'm sure you have your reasons for your opinion. I'd just like to know, specifically, what damage you think they might do to my particular application?
Don't know why I'm even considering trying to get the max out of the Torsion Bars & Keys. I'll probably go with the raised spindles in the end anyway...besides, I've already got 10" wheels on the way so I gotta do something. Don't ask me why...I just want that extra 2" of tread width and the extra track width that the wheels I have on order and 12.50's will give.
Do you think 2" lift spindles will work or should I go to 3" (or more)?
At any rate, I appreciate your response, there, Partner.
I'll keep you posted.
#10
#11
Thanks, Bitzy: CV Axles are the least of my worries. My Truck is 2WD and Torsion Bars (obviously). I gotta admit I thought the guy at the Ford House was trying to pound sand in my *** when he told me I could get almost 5" of lift using the method I described. But, honest to God, my truck came up just short of 3" when I cranked the old "F" bars I have now. I just figured that being a stiffer Code 1 bar (larger diameter, I think) I might squeeze another inch out of it (maybe a bit more if I went to aftermarket Torsion Bar Keys) without having to go to the raised spindles. But after reading your response I'm left to wonder about it. In fact, you've given me a severe case of the heebeejeebees. Leavin' me to wonder if I should scratch my watch or wind my ***. I would like to ask (and please don't take offense)...what do you know about Torsion Bar Keys that makes you think they are a bad idea? Just curious you understand. I'm sure you have your reasons for your opinion. I'd just like to know, specifically, what damage you think they might do to my particular application? Don't know why I'm even considering trying to get the max out of the Torsion Bars & Keys. I'll probably go with the raised spindles in the end anyway...besides, I've already got 10" wheels on the way so I gotta do something. Don't ask me why...I just want that extra 2" of tread width and the extra track width that the wheels I have on order and 12.50's will give. Do you think 2" lift spindles will work or should I go to 3" (or more)? At any rate, I appreciate your response, there, Partner. I'll keep you posted.
I have my knowledge on tbars from reading and exploring ranger forums for over two years. Nothing good has come from them. They completely destroy the front end components. If you don't care about repairing your front end, get them.
3" spindles seem the way to go. Also if you wanna make sure you can clear the 33s with spindles, you could always get some fiberglass fenders to replace the front fenders with. You shouldn't have any rubbing issues with maxed tbars, 3" spindles, and the fiberglass.
#12
Well...looks like I'm gonna have to go to the spindles. I think I'm going to pass on the fiberglass. I hate that stuff...(ever owned a Corvette?...trust me the L-88 I had stayed in the body shop more than in my garage) the slightest ding costs like Hell to repair and I'm just not going to attempt to put up with that again.
So hopefully, The spindles and the new T-Bars will be my new path.
Thanks, again, for your input.
So hopefully, The spindles and the new T-Bars will be my new path.
Thanks, again, for your input.
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