Changing the clutch this weekend....
#1
Changing the clutch this weekend....
Truck has 167k miles on it. Bought it a couple weeks ago. Last night I changed the brake pads and serpentine belt. Have plans to change the timing belt in a month or two. This weekend I'm changing the clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder. Along with that I'm also doing the themostat, pcv valve, coolant, trans flush and fuel filter. Oil is not coming out of the back of the engine so I think the rear main seal is ok.
My questions are:
What else while I'm under there should I change? (you have to pull the trans to change the clutch, so want to do this one time)
What kind of gear oil does the trans take?
I think the pinion seal is leaking on the diff. How hard, while I'm down there would it be to change that? If it's too much to go through, I'm at least gonna put new fluid in it. What kind of gear oil goes in the diff?
If you see no leakage, is there a need to change the input and output shaft seals?
I may be doing the wires and wires, coils, and plugs too just to get em done while I have the money and chance.
So now I've told you what I'm planning, what suggestions do yall have and ideas on what I'm doing or may do?
Thanks
My questions are:
What else while I'm under there should I change? (you have to pull the trans to change the clutch, so want to do this one time)
What kind of gear oil does the trans take?
I think the pinion seal is leaking on the diff. How hard, while I'm down there would it be to change that? If it's too much to go through, I'm at least gonna put new fluid in it. What kind of gear oil goes in the diff?
If you see no leakage, is there a need to change the input and output shaft seals?
I may be doing the wires and wires, coils, and plugs too just to get em done while I have the money and chance.
So now I've told you what I'm planning, what suggestions do yall have and ideas on what I'm doing or may do?
Thanks
#2
SLAVE CYL SLAVE CYL SLAVE CYL. do that while you're in there...it's a requirement pretty much.
pilot bearing
throw-out bearing(built into the slave cyl)
pinion seals are easy...take driveshaft off(it should already be off for hte tranny drop), buzz the pinion nut off while holding the flange, then take a screw driver or a seal puller and pull the old seal. gently hammer on the new one, slide onthe flange, then buzz the nut back on while holding the flange. done.
75w80 is fine.
M5od-r1 trans take ATF mercon iv/v.
pilot bearing
throw-out bearing(built into the slave cyl)
pinion seals are easy...take driveshaft off(it should already be off for hte tranny drop), buzz the pinion nut off while holding the flange, then take a screw driver or a seal puller and pull the old seal. gently hammer on the new one, slide onthe flange, then buzz the nut back on while holding the flange. done.
75w80 is fine.
M5od-r1 trans take ATF mercon iv/v.
#3
75w80 for both the trans and diff
and I was already doing the slave, the clutch kit comes with new throw out and pilot bearing, not sure if it comes with a pressure plate or not.
I'm a ranger noob, what is the M5od-r1. If it's a trans, not sure what mine is, stock, I know that. 4 speed w/ od.
and I was already doing the slave, the clutch kit comes with new throw out and pilot bearing, not sure if it comes with a pressure plate or not.
I'm a ranger noob, what is the M5od-r1. If it's a trans, not sure what mine is, stock, I know that. 4 speed w/ od.
#7
#8
Sorry just couldn't believe it. I'm used to running 90w in everything at work and like I said, I'm new the rangers. Thanks Shane.
Got any ideas for rutine type things I should do. Got the things in my first post and the air filter looks good, has plenty of oil (changed 1k miles ago too), power steering is good on fluid but does whine a lil bit (it's a ford, supposed to whine). I don't know what else to do.
Again man, thanks.
Got any ideas for rutine type things I should do. Got the things in my first post and the air filter looks good, has plenty of oil (changed 1k miles ago too), power steering is good on fluid but does whine a lil bit (it's a ford, supposed to whine). I don't know what else to do.
Again man, thanks.
#11
^Hmm...i run Royal Purple 100% Synthetic in my truck for everything except the brake/clutch fluid. NEVER had any problems. Of course my truck is 6 years newer....so idk.
Original poster, if youve not done a clutch job before, get yourself a Chilton's or a Haynes manual. It'll help you out alot.
Original poster, if youve not done a clutch job before, get yourself a Chilton's or a Haynes manual. It'll help you out alot.
#12
#13
I started beating the flange off with a ball pean before I thought about looking it up on the interwebs and now I see that I should have used a puller. I said this to my bud and he said no it would be ok, just be careful. I have beat it out about a 1/4" and now the flange and the pinion bolt that nut screws down on are both coming out. Did I jack up my rear end? Is it ok?
Last edited by boborone; 02-22-2009 at 04:33 PM.
#15
Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Topsham, VT
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure what you're talking about....why did you take the flagne off? Rear 8.8 I'm assuming?
Edit: OK, you're doing the pinion seal also...if it's an 8.8 it's not that easy as was stated earlier......you technically should replace the crush sleeve when retorquing...you also should pull the carrier to get the real bearing preload. Not sure if 7.5s (after searching I think they do) follow the same procedure, but you gotta get that preload right or else you'll toast bearings. I'm doing the seal soon, and the solid sleeve looks better than the crush sleeve route....
Here's some reading....
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=220384
Specs...
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...And-Pinion.pdf
Solid spacer insted of crush sleeve...
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles.../photo_07.html
Crush sleeve.....
http://www.outlawspeed.com/31crslfo789.html
Edit: OK, you're doing the pinion seal also...if it's an 8.8 it's not that easy as was stated earlier......you technically should replace the crush sleeve when retorquing...you also should pull the carrier to get the real bearing preload. Not sure if 7.5s (after searching I think they do) follow the same procedure, but you gotta get that preload right or else you'll toast bearings. I'm doing the seal soon, and the solid sleeve looks better than the crush sleeve route....
Here's some reading....
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=220384
Specs...
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...And-Pinion.pdf
Solid spacer insted of crush sleeve...
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles.../photo_07.html
Crush sleeve.....
http://www.outlawspeed.com/31crslfo789.html
Last edited by buckgnarly; 02-22-2009 at 05:38 PM.
#16
I read on some explorer forums ealier and that's were I realized my mistake. If I was to just bolt the shaft back up as is. How many miles do you think I have on em? Can it wait till next weekend? I'm light on the gas but drive at least 600 miles a week. I can take it to my buddy who used to race dirt track and he can rebuild it. That's my only hope right now. Thanks man.
#17
Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Topsham, VT
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I read on some explorer forums ealier and that's were I realized my mistake. If I was to just bolt the shaft back up as is. How many miles do you think I have on em? Can it wait till next weekend? I'm light on the gas but drive at least 600 miles a week. I can take it to my buddy who used to race dirt track and he can rebuild it. That's my only hope right now. Thanks man.
If you have an inlbs torque wrench you can do it using the used bearing specs on that Ford sheet (16-28 lb-in), but if you torque it too far you gotta replace the crush sleeve.
The goal is to get it close to what it was before you took the pressure off the bearings.....I'd get it "hand tight", then take care of it ASAP. 600 miles in not a lot, but if you're off by a lot it could easily toast them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ttb_addict94
Drivetrain Tech
0
06-05-2014 05:43 PM
DJDev
Drivetrain Tech
2
10-28-2012 08:41 PM