Has anyone heard anything on this Locker ?

Sound interesting but pricey around $630 at one site.

Here is the product hype:

Product Description
Auburn Gear has developed an Electronically Controlled Traction Enhancing Differential – the ECTED™. The ECTED does not require external pneumatic or hydraulic connections. The ECTED greatly enhances the traction required for severe off-road and towing applications such as pickup trucks and SUVs. The ECTED’s compact design and variable torque transfer capability lends itself to many differential applications.
The ECTED’s simplicity, ease of installation, high torque transfer capability, and other controllable features makes it an attractive cost-to-benefit design.

Full Time Limited Slip
When the ECTED is disengaged it acts as a normal limited slip to provide increased performance during normal operation.

Fully Locked With The Flip Of A Switch
To activate the ECTED just flip the included switch and the differential is instantly locked. There is no waiting for teeth to mesh or tugging on a lever. The ECTED is fast, quiet and dependable.

ABS & C-lock Compatible
Because the ECTED is electronically controlled and is capable of instantaneous disengagement, it can be deactivated at any point in time so as to not interfere with ABS systems. It is also designed to accept C-lock designed axle shafts.

Fits Into Most Existing Axle Housings
The ECTED has been developed in several sizes and has been designed to fit within many current OEM axles without modification except for a wire entrance hole.
ECTED Lockers include locker, wiring, lighted switch, friction modifier additive, fittings for differential hole and instructions.
4.56 and numerically higher ratios require modification to the cross pin.

 

With that price tag I would just save and get the ARB...
I think the ected locker came in some of the Jeep grand cherokee's a few years back.
I know the newer ones are using one from Tru-lok should be the same one thats in the current Rubicons...

 

That seems like a lot. i just bought a L2 axle for $735 shipped. But i have no idea if that is a good deal or not. It just seemed cheaper than buying an explorere 8.8, modifying the mounts and re-gearing.

 

you coulda save a ton just buying a local expo axle and dropping a power trax in it... and have full locker instead of limited slip

 

Are you talking to me or scrambler?

 

ya aussies are like 300 and you can get an axle at pick n pull for like what....150?

 

to you man, the l2 is only (to me) disirible because the spring pads and shock tabs are already in the right spots. dont get me wrong its still a good axle, and the torsen is a good diff, but not at almost 750

*edit* that is to say there is no miles.... then not so bad

 

Guys think these things through before you say "drop something in"

First look at the the prices.

used explorer axles with approximately 100k miles are about $200, sure you might find that random deal on craiglist for $150, but $200 is a little more average.

I wanted to regear to 4.10 as finding an expo axle with that gear ratio is very diffiuclt to near impossible. So the ring and pinion and install kit is going to run about $250

then you have about another $50 for the mounting brackets for the spring perches and shocks.

That is $500 for just parts.

I live in an apartment. I don't know how to weld nor have a welder. I don't even have a jack to ge the truck in the. so i have to pay someone to weld the mounts on the truck. I will have to pay someone to get the r&p installed. The two people I know with welding skills are members here Shane (fx4wannabe01) and Kyle Riggs. they both weleded the mounts for their axles but both of them paid to have the gears installed. So at best that is another $250 for the r&p install and either money or some form of compensation for the welding at about $100.

So that is $500 for parts on low ball pricing and $350 for labor if I am lucky that is $850 for an explorer axle. And this doesn't necessarily include a locker or LS.

So how is "dropping in" an explorer axle for "150" even possible or cheaper then buying a bolt on replacement?

 

kick back bro, noones attacking you for the price you paid. nor can we read your mind on what you want. my post was focused towards both you and the OP. so calm down.

 

not attacking you man. i understand the wowes of it all. but im just saying...
200 is sorta steep. i live about an hour south of you and cand get them wheel mount to wheel mount for about 100... thats with a 373ls axle... i havent found me a 410 unit yet but they exist and i still have a ton of yard to hit up.

 

I am doing more of the attacking. I think people here just spew out the "drop in an explorer axle" or "drop in a 5.0" without knowing what is really required to do it. Or the abilities of the people that they are suggesting them to.

 

Thanks for the opinions on the Explorer Axle… but I have a Lvl II Axle already, short cash with 4.10s maybe upgrading gear to 4.56 but for now can we get to the topic at hand.

Does anyone know anything about the 8.8" 31 Spline ECTED Locker, Auburn !

Thanks

 

I have heard because they a limited slip as well, they will need to be rebuilt often. And its like 300+ I think to rebuild it. You have to send it off to Auburn.

I dont get the point of it personally. If I wanted A selectable locker, I dont want a limited slip as well. Its nicer in snow to have a compleatly open diff, and lock it when you need to.

If it was me I would be getting an ARB, OR an OX locker.

 

Yeah the auburn unit isn't a real locker. Its virtually a super tight L/S when 'locked'. Its a clutch driven unit and will have to be rebuilt every couple of years. IMO if you want a locker there are better units for the money. If you're going selectable get something gear driven.

 

Thanks… thinking on an OX setup...

 

X2
I have heard very few positive reviews. People say they wear out quickly since they are clutch based. They don't fully lock when you really need it since it only tightens up the clutch pack.
You would be better off building a tighter clutch pack in a regular ford limited slip IMO.
For that money you could have a Detroit locker, or a true trac limited slip for less that won't wear out.

 

Thanks for the input, you guys have left me with no choice, OX or ARB will be it.
I just contacted by e-mail my supplier and will see if there is one and what the cost will be.

Thanks as usual, good info.

ltr

 

Isn't the eaton e-locker also available for that diff? I have one in front of my f150 and like it so far. The arb is good but you also have to setup on board air.

Go to diffsonly.com and find the phone number, the guy is Wayne Hartwig. I saved a ton of money buying stuff from him. Get a price elsewhere, and call him and ask if he will beat it.

 

Yeah the E-locker is available for that axle. I have the 28 spline version and only had one problem with it not locking up but it was a wiring problem. The bad thing about the E-locker though is that anything over stock tire size voids the warranty. I'm well out of the warranty period anyways but still, its pretty lame that an oversized tire voids the warranty.

 

Oh that's right, I remember reading about that in the warranty.
I'm sure if something failed on it (bad actuator or something) they wouldn't hassle you about tire size. Now if you just plain broke it, maybe.

I thought my e-locker wasn't working right at first. Since I have to be in 4x4 to get the hubs locked and I already have a rear detroit, it was hard to tell if it locked up front or not. So I was making sharp turns in gravel (back and forth a lot) and it seemed like when I changed directions it "let go". Come to find out that is completely normal. When you lock it and move one direction, the ***** have to run up the ramp to engage the locking pins. When you change directions, the walk back down the ramp, then up in the other direction before it locks again. It makes perfect sense but it felt wrong at first.

 

thats odd. i drove in 4wd for the first time this weekend....locked in the front...interesting for sure....verrrry tight but definitely worth it.

 

So, Eaton eLocker, it works with ***** in the diff ?
I have never looked at it before, the detroit would be the best idea but too much snow in the northeast.
Now if there was a switchable Detroit Locker.

Thanks for the input and i will call the “diffonly" guy for pricing.
Thanks.

 

Here is a video showing how the e-locker works.
YouTube - How Eaton's E-Locker Technology Works
In the owners manual it says that the locker should not be engaged over 3mph, as engaging the locking pins when one wheel is spinning faster than the other could damage the locking pins. Basically it could be like engaging 4x4 with the rear wheels spinning. I would assume any selectable locker (like ARB or OX) has a similar note about engagement.


I found diffsonly.com on the pirate4x4.com board, the guys user name is waynehartwig I think. He has a thread in the vendors section, saying to PM him for lowest pricing. You may get a better price by signing up and messaging him on there, that's what I did. Lowest prices I could find anywhere. The parts were simply drop-shipped from TN so I got them super quick.

 

I forget what you put in your front axle, I'll have to look again.
I had an aussie in front (and rear) of the sport trac and it was awesome. The tight steering in 4x4 is different, but being in 4low with front and rear locked up was badass. I haven't had a real reason to put my F150 in 4x4 and lock the front yet, stupid Kentucky. lol. I've tried flexing it out on ramps and in ditches, but in 4x4 with the rear locker it hasn't lifted a tire up front when it's unlocked anyway.


edit: I see that you have a Detroit up front. How is it with the hubs locked in 2wd? The aussie wasn't noticeable at all in 2wd even with live axles. It seems like my rear detroit is a little noisier and clunkier than the aussie was though.

 

Thanks, I am a member of the pirate4x4.com board, i will check him out.

thanks