Please don't say it's true... (clutch)
#1
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Portage, IN
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Please don't say it's true... (clutch)
Over the past week or so, I've noticed it's been difficult to get into gear (3.2L, 4cyl 5 speed). Once or twice I've ground gears with the clutch *on the floor*. It comes and goes. If I can't get it into gear, I let the clutch up, then press it to the floor again and it generally goes in.
What is going on here?
(Can't find anything by searching other then it MAY be the slave cylinder.)
What is going on here?
(Can't find anything by searching other then it MAY be the slave cylinder.)
#3
Definately sounds like a slave issue. It's not that hard to swap out......i'm on #4 right now!
Be sure to check out the master cyl as well, that could also be a culprit.
And don't forget to get a new clutch installed as well while you already have the trans out. $50-80 for the slave. Clutch kits usually run in the $150-200 range. Install....$?????.
Be sure to check out the master cyl as well, that could also be a culprit.
And don't forget to get a new clutch installed as well while you already have the trans out. $50-80 for the slave. Clutch kits usually run in the $150-200 range. Install....$?????.
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#5
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#6
Figured I would give this a friendly bump as its a fellow ranger owner in a pretty big need... clutch installs through a shop are dang expensive...
If I lived anywhere closer I wouldnt mind packing up some tools and hitting the road for a day... Never done a clutch before, but as logn as the tools are there and theres a Hayes manual it shouldnt be too hard to do.... Sadly I live way on the west coast area though..
If I lived anywhere closer I wouldnt mind packing up some tools and hitting the road for a day... Never done a clutch before, but as logn as the tools are there and theres a Hayes manual it shouldnt be too hard to do.... Sadly I live way on the west coast area though..
#8
^^^Then shift it without the clutch! I did that for as long as i could(5 days) to and from work. Only vehicle running at the time, lol. Plus, i was totally broke. I ran it until i had NO hardness on the pedal.....got to about 1/2" off the floor is when it started to have pressure, lol. Only stated using clutch, after that, even downshifting, I shifted her clutchless.
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^^^Then shift it without the clutch! I did that for as long as i could(5 days) to and from work. Only vehicle running at the time, lol. Plus, i was totally broke. I ran it until i had NO hardness on the pedal.....got to about 1/2" off the floor is when it started to have pressure, lol. Only stated using clutch, after that, even downshifting, I shifted her clutchless.
i know what you mean it sucks ive done it twice now probably gettin close for #4 soon. im gettin alot better with it now i can tell you that
#12
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That is, IF it holds out until next weekend. Working straight through this weekend, and nobody to cover for me. So I'm stuck with it for now.
Again, main things for me are: lack of tools, lack of shop space (garage would work but is a bit small for dropping the tranny I think), and lack of mechanical skill. I've been in my own place for about 4 months now (before I was in an apartment, no real need for tools) so I'm still getting on my feet.
I have yet to even call around and get prices to have someone do it... been so freaking busy. If you're confident enough we could muddle through it I'd be willing to pick up the parts, a 6-pack and head out that way. And thanks for the offer!
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#16
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ive never had that problem when mine goes out you know it. the clutch will go to the floor with no play. you might be haivng problems with your slave clynider or pressure plate or something like that. but mine has never went out and then came back. Maybe you just got some air in there somehow or something. do you know how to bleed it?
#17
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ive never had that problem when mine goes out you know it. the clutch will go to the floor with no play. you might be haivng problems with your slave clynider or pressure plate or something like that. but mine has never went out and then came back. Maybe you just got some air in there somehow or something. do you know how to bleed it?
I finally have a day off so I'm going to get under there and see what the pedal links to. Perhaps that link is wearing out?
#19
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It *is* the little reservoir on the rear driver's side, not too far from the brake fluid reservoir, right? It's just a little white can with a hose going down in the general direction of the transmission.
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this is out of the Hayne manual just shortend up some for bleeding the slave cylinder just incase its not a linkage problem i would try this:
2) Fill master cyl to the top with new brake fluid conforming with DOT 3 specifications.
4) Remove dust cap from bleeder and push a clear tube over bleeder. The other end of the hose into a container, bottle of sorts. (Ed.. I didn't do this....felt as though there was no need, I knew I was gonna get covered with brake fluid anyway)
5) Open bleeder valve. Fluid will run from master cyl, down the hydraulic line, into the release cyl and out through the clear plastic tube. Let fluid run out until it is free of bubbles. (Ed. DON'T LET FLUID RUN OUT OF MASTER CYL!!!)
6) Close bleeder valve.
7) Have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal and hold it. Open the bleeder valve on the release cyl, allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. Close the bleeder valve when the flow stops. Once closed, have the assistant release the pedal.
8) Slowly press and release the pedal five times, waiting for two seconds each time the pedal is released.
9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the step.
10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, repete steps 5 through 9.
11) Continue process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by solid stream of fluid being ejected from te bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.
12) Install dust cap. Check carefully for peoper operation before placing the vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.
2) Fill master cyl to the top with new brake fluid conforming with DOT 3 specifications.
4) Remove dust cap from bleeder and push a clear tube over bleeder. The other end of the hose into a container, bottle of sorts. (Ed.. I didn't do this....felt as though there was no need, I knew I was gonna get covered with brake fluid anyway)
5) Open bleeder valve. Fluid will run from master cyl, down the hydraulic line, into the release cyl and out through the clear plastic tube. Let fluid run out until it is free of bubbles. (Ed. DON'T LET FLUID RUN OUT OF MASTER CYL!!!)
6) Close bleeder valve.
7) Have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal and hold it. Open the bleeder valve on the release cyl, allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. Close the bleeder valve when the flow stops. Once closed, have the assistant release the pedal.
8) Slowly press and release the pedal five times, waiting for two seconds each time the pedal is released.
9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the step.
10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, repete steps 5 through 9.
11) Continue process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by solid stream of fluid being ejected from te bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.
12) Install dust cap. Check carefully for peoper operation before placing the vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.
#23
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Sorry, I've been MIA the past week or so. Anyway...
I haven't tried to bleed the system yet as I wouldn't know where to begin (did I mention I'm mechanically retarded?)
I did just discover something odd with the fluid reservoir... come to find out, there's a rubber insert that makes it LOOK like there's fluid in there when there actually isn't. So I just put in a few ounces of DOT3... probably just enough to fill up the hose up to the reservoir. What's that rubber thing for, anyway?
Anyway, the rough shifting has still been on and off lately. It seems that when it's acting rough, I have to press REALLY hard on the clutch to keep it from grinding. Yet, when in gear and no brake is applied, it doesn't pull forward.
I haven't tried to bleed the system yet as I wouldn't know where to begin (did I mention I'm mechanically retarded?)
I did just discover something odd with the fluid reservoir... come to find out, there's a rubber insert that makes it LOOK like there's fluid in there when there actually isn't. So I just put in a few ounces of DOT3... probably just enough to fill up the hose up to the reservoir. What's that rubber thing for, anyway?
Anyway, the rough shifting has still been on and off lately. It seems that when it's acting rough, I have to press REALLY hard on the clutch to keep it from grinding. Yet, when in gear and no brake is applied, it doesn't pull forward.
#24
Sorry, I've been MIA the past week or so. Anyway...
I haven't tried to bleed the system yet as I wouldn't know where to begin (did I mention I'm mechanically retarded?)
I did just discover something odd with the fluid reservoir... come to find out, there's a rubber insert that makes it LOOK like there's fluid in there when there actually isn't. So I just put in a few ounces of DOT3... probably just enough to fill up the hose up to the reservoir. What's that rubber thing for, anyway?
Anyway, the rough shifting has still been on and off lately. It seems that when it's acting rough, I have to press REALLY hard on the clutch to keep it from grinding. Yet, when in gear and no brake is applied, it doesn't pull forward.
I haven't tried to bleed the system yet as I wouldn't know where to begin (did I mention I'm mechanically retarded?)
I did just discover something odd with the fluid reservoir... come to find out, there's a rubber insert that makes it LOOK like there's fluid in there when there actually isn't. So I just put in a few ounces of DOT3... probably just enough to fill up the hose up to the reservoir. What's that rubber thing for, anyway?
Anyway, the rough shifting has still been on and off lately. It seems that when it's acting rough, I have to press REALLY hard on the clutch to keep it from grinding. Yet, when in gear and no brake is applied, it doesn't pull forward.
#25
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The rubber insert is to keep air out of the system in case the fluid level in the resiviour drops too low. You'll also notice a very tiny hole in the resi cap. When you fill the resi, you need to take the rubber insert out, then put a couple ounces of fluid in. You can then replace the insert (some fluid may overflow, but that's fine).