Syncromesh???
#1
Syncromesh???
My tranny 5spd tranny works fine. Every gear goes in fine except third, I mean it has never grinded on me but its just more notchy than any other gear. I know ATF is what is in there now but how about 100% sycromesh? I put syncromesh in my SHO and it stopped the grinding and that car came with ATF stock so I have extra sycromesh and was thinking about doing the swap?
#2
ANYTHING other than ATF will work better in a manual trans. I used 85w gear oil in my old escort and never had any trouble with it. But it was ALWAYS hard to get into gear when the atf was in it. If you live where it gets really cold you might want to get a mixed weight gear oil that flows better in the cold.
#3
First, I have no idea what you're talking about. Synchromesh is a type of system for engaging gears by having wheels called "synchros" that engage before the gears do and spin them up to speed so they don't clash.
There may be special lubes for that, but I doubt that's the brand name. A good synthetic might help, or not. If it's not the rated viscosity for the application, it may not penetrate spaces or stay/go where it's supposed to. Don't substitute something just because it worked in another vehicle that may have had a completely different design inside the transmission.
How long did you own the SHO after that by the way?
Also, what is the brand name and specs for the synchromesh fluid you're talking about? More information allows the answer to be given a bit better than the generalizations I'm spouting here -- but that's all I have to work with, lol.
Additional stuff you should post when asking things: what year/motor is your truck and how many miles on it?
Third gear on those lousy manuals (like second/third on the autos) is a pain in the butt. My daughters Ranger grinds that gear if you don't shift just right. The synchros apparently wear out real fast.
I'd stick to a fresh fill of a compatible factory spec lube, preferably something fully synthetic but that's always my preference, lol. Synthetic lubes are generally better engineered and more consistent than the blends of different weights of petroleum oils that make up conventional lubes.
Where synthetic might not help is with worn synchros. Might keep them from wearing faster, but it might allow more slip and prevent proper synchronization rather than helping it.
There may be special lubes for that, but I doubt that's the brand name. A good synthetic might help, or not. If it's not the rated viscosity for the application, it may not penetrate spaces or stay/go where it's supposed to. Don't substitute something just because it worked in another vehicle that may have had a completely different design inside the transmission.
How long did you own the SHO after that by the way?
Also, what is the brand name and specs for the synchromesh fluid you're talking about? More information allows the answer to be given a bit better than the generalizations I'm spouting here -- but that's all I have to work with, lol.
Additional stuff you should post when asking things: what year/motor is your truck and how many miles on it?
Third gear on those lousy manuals (like second/third on the autos) is a pain in the butt. My daughters Ranger grinds that gear if you don't shift just right. The synchros apparently wear out real fast.
I'd stick to a fresh fill of a compatible factory spec lube, preferably something fully synthetic but that's always my preference, lol. Synthetic lubes are generally better engineered and more consistent than the blends of different weights of petroleum oils that make up conventional lubes.
Where synthetic might not help is with worn synchros. Might keep them from wearing faster, but it might allow more slip and prevent proper synchronization rather than helping it.
#4
#5
Originally Posted by CadiLLaPimPin
ANYTHING other than ATF will work better in a manual trans. I used 85w gear oil in my old escort and never had any trouble with it. But it was ALWAYS hard to get into gear when the atf was in it. If you live where it gets really cold you might want to get a mixed weight gear oil that flows better in the cold.
Also, pushing the viscosity up kills the efficiency. Also, do NOT forget that clearances and oil passages are often re-engineered when thinner fluids are put in. Putting heavier fluids in may make things "smooth", but it doesn't mean you're not damaging things long term.
From that kind of thinking, it might be a good idea to go to 40 or 50 weight oil in any engine -- but it's simply not true.
#6
yes, the M5OD is designed specifically to use ATF in it, NOT gear oil. it is designed with much smaller oil passages and the clearances are much closer. the gear oil does not flow to all of the bearings properly so while it may run quieter and feel smoother, it will probably not be that way for the long run. there are bearings that get starved for oil when gear oil is used and the clearances in the tranny get wasted and soon it will be even louder and feel even notchier than it did when it was in good condition with the ATF in it.
#7
sorry Syncromesh is what GM's use for their tranny fluid http://www.pennzoil.com/products/gea...cro_fluid.html
Like I said my SHO tranny which was a Mazda made one liked the Syncromesh very much. Just wondering if anyone has used it in the ranger 5spd
Like I said my SHO tranny which was a Mazda made one liked the Syncromesh very much. Just wondering if anyone has used it in the ranger 5spd
#8
Originally Posted by n3elz
First, I have no idea what you're talking about. Synchromesh is a type of system for engaging gears by having wheels called "synchros" that engage before the gears do and spin them up to speed so they don't clash.
There may be special lubes for that, but I doubt that's the brand name. A good synthetic might help, or not. If it's not the rated viscosity for the application, it may not penetrate spaces or stay/go where it's supposed to. Don't substitute something just because it worked in another vehicle that may have had a completely different design inside the transmission.
How long did you own the SHO after that by the way?
There may be special lubes for that, but I doubt that's the brand name. A good synthetic might help, or not. If it's not the rated viscosity for the application, it may not penetrate spaces or stay/go where it's supposed to. Don't substitute something just because it worked in another vehicle that may have had a completely different design inside the transmission.
How long did you own the SHO after that by the way?
#10
#12
I swear by synchromesh in Honda trannies. They take a hell of a beating in drag cars and there is really no aftermarket support for internals so the abuse of using launch control and no lift shift in your EM on a honda tranny takes it's toll over time since they were designed for 160-180 hp and we are regularly bolting 4-500 hp to them. Synchromesh will kill any grinds you may have that are not rediculously sever due to a bent fork or something of that nature.
If you want the exact same thing from penzoil for less, they have a synchromesh in a yellow bottle at Advance that is made by the same company for 9 bucks a bottle vice the 18 GM charges at the counter.
As far as longevity though, trust me, you won't put a ranger through the abuse that a dedicated drag car goes through and we have had no problems using it for years.
If you want the exact same thing from penzoil for less, they have a synchromesh in a yellow bottle at Advance that is made by the same company for 9 bucks a bottle vice the 18 GM charges at the counter.
As far as longevity though, trust me, you won't put a ranger through the abuse that a dedicated drag car goes through and we have had no problems using it for years.
#13
Originally Posted by slodsm
I swear by synchromesh in Honda trannies. They take a hell of a beating in drag cars and there is really no aftermarket support for internals so the abuse of using launch control and no lift shift in your EM on a honda tranny takes it's toll over time since they were designed for 160-180 hp and we are regularly bolting 4-500 hp to them. Synchromesh will kill any grinds you may have that are not rediculously sever due to a bent fork or something of that nature.
If you want the exact same thing from penzoil for less, they have a synchromesh in a yellow bottle at Advance that is made by the same company for 9 bucks a bottle vice the 18 GM charges at the counter.
As far as longevity though, trust me, you won't put a ranger through the abuse that a dedicated drag car goes through and we have had no problems using it for years.
If you want the exact same thing from penzoil for less, they have a synchromesh in a yellow bottle at Advance that is made by the same company for 9 bucks a bottle vice the 18 GM charges at the counter.
As far as longevity though, trust me, you won't put a ranger through the abuse that a dedicated drag car goes through and we have had no problems using it for years.
#14
#16
Ha ha! Well, that's not good advice. Put sawdust in your oil and your engine will run quieter too...for awhile.
Also, pushing the viscosity up kills the efficiency. Also, do NOT forget that clearances and oil passages are often re-engineered when thinner fluids are put in. Putting heavier fluids in may make things "smooth", but it doesn't mean you're not damaging things long term.
From that kind of thinking, it might be a good idea to go to 40 or 50 weight oil in any engine -- but it's simply not true.
Also, pushing the viscosity up kills the efficiency. Also, do NOT forget that clearances and oil passages are often re-engineered when thinner fluids are put in. Putting heavier fluids in may make things "smooth", but it doesn't mean you're not damaging things long term.
From that kind of thinking, it might be a good idea to go to 40 or 50 weight oil in any engine -- but it's simply not true.
I probably should have said, Just about any oil besides ATF will work better.
Regular engine oil will flow as well and protect better than ATF, but it would have to be changed nearly as often as the oil in your engine. So you would be better off with a multi-viscosity gear oil. Just choose the weight that will protect best for the climate that you live in.
#17
Originally Posted by Fiveologyjay
FYI, I put a Tremec 3550 in my mustang to replace the weak T-5 and it calls for syncromesh. Im not saying its good to put it in something that doesn't call for it.
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